DenisAlmos

I would hazards guess you should put a new age TB at least (or with manifold as it has same head pattern as V5-v6).
New age TB needs only one aux and PWM.

No you want be able to do a stepper motor with the V3/4 plug-in, it doesnt have Aux 5 or 7 available or the ECU hold power circuit to reset the idle valve after power off.  
I dont know the interchangeability of the various manifolds/throttles/idle valves for the early EJ's very well so cant off much advice on the hardware, but you will need a 2 or three-wire idle valve.

Not all Plugin ECUs have the High side driver for Aux5-8 fitted as not all Plugin ECUs require that functionality, I suspect that the EVO3 is one of those plugin ECUs with the High Side driver chip not fitted. Best course of action is probably to hit up tech support to see if you can get that chip fitted to your ECU.

The Evo plug-ins do not have the high side drive hardware on board to drive a 4 wire stepper (bipolar), they can only drive a unipolar stepper motor that has its own 12V supply as per the factory evo stepper it was designed for.  
You will have to change to a 2, 3 or 6 wire valve.

I am trying to use G4X Extreme with wrx v3.
I created the wiring and made the connections and this is what I saw on the PClink screen.
In Help, it looked like this.

 
Which is correct?
 

I understood about how to set it up.
It worked fine with the method you showed me.
Thank you for the help!

Yeah this is effectively just a dumb screen, it doesnt have any brain in it, all the processing needs to be done by the PDM, it cant be used without an Aim PDM.  These displays are only GBP$335 brand new so this one is also very over priced.  The standalone Aim dashes have at least 3 connectors on the back with ~40pins total.  
Realdash on a tablet would probably be the lowest cost option but will be quite a learning curve making it do what you want and you need to consider how you want to power it up etc.  
Probably the most common low cost display at present is the powertune digital which would work out a similar price or less than what that Aim is listed for.  They are quite flexible and work well, the main negatives compared to a more commercial product would probably be the 3D printed case and a little slow to boot up.   https://www.powertunedigital.com/collections/all-products-2  

Am I right to assume these two settings will interact with each other?

So if your Charge Temp Approximation Table is way out, changing the Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff will give you poor results, and vice versa?
What's the best method for tuning these? The helpfile says a typical value for petrol is a Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff of "10".
Should I just leave it at 10 and attempt to get the Charge Temp Approximation Table correct first?
Currently changing the Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff doesn't appear to have any effect for me unless I set it to 0, which turns it off?
Tuning for a steady Lambda of 1.000 with a Target of 1.000 currently drops me down to 0.850 when I target 0.900, but if I set it to 0 it will achieve the 0.900 target.
I'm confident all my Injector settings are correct. So that just makes me think my Charge Temp Approximation Table is way out and I need it to be influenced by ECT more than IAT in this region.
But wouldn't changing the Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff after getting the Charge Temp Approximation Table roughed in throw all out again? Is changing the Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff from the default of "10" when using pump U98 even necessary?

So it turns out this overshooting of the Lambda Target was actually a bad O2 sensor.
It was exaggerating the reported difference from stoich. Found it yesterday at the dyno when the car's O2 sensor showing a much large swing compared to the dyno sensor in the exhaust pipe.

Do you have datalogs of the car running at close to sea level and datalogs of it where the BAP is 85kpa?  You could easily switch the MAP to MGP and run a second test to see if the fueling is closer in line with what one would expect.  I downloaded and saved a copy of the tune and I'll take a look when I get some time to do so.

Yeah what i did was loaded the preloaded base map again, I was trying to see the difference in the latency values i put in from what was loaded in stock, so Im gona just try and stay with the traditional scaling now, Im not gona try starting the car again until i get the wideband issues sorted out. 

Up to this... Sorry for hijacking this thread...

I was able to make the fue level work (adjusted with the components I have available as in the below pic) --- I got the high level (as of the moment the tank is full) but I have to wait for the actual reading of the empty level to adjust my linear calibration. The full sweep of the floater seems to read 0.675V to 4.900V.
*Vehicle also on 4-120 Ohm unit.
*10SQ050 Schottky diode for isolation added - as the stock gauge 12V fuel level sensor is still connected in parallel.
Edit: Too much fluctuation on fuel sloshing in tank. I changed the 10K to 100K Ohms. 

@Adamw Ummm... I have the fuel level assigned to 'MAF Meter' to make it show in OBD2 (just changed the label on the app, but I cannot change the unit showing). I'm wondering if there's any better option - while there's no dedicated analog input for 'Fuel Level'. 

The 2011 Dakar rally is on the 1st January to the 16th January in South America (Argentina and Chile). We have one car fitted with the Vipec V88. This car was built in Hungary. It was tuned by Hrvoje Hictaler (Hic).

Video of the car during testing





Final testing of Mitsubishi Pajero with which we are going to start on Dakar 2010 was done on training ground near Budapest. Testing went very well, the car functioned perfectly and personally I am very satisfied with impovements done on the car since April race in Derecske.

Improvement on the car was primarily done on lightening its weight. The car was tra
nsformed into pick-up and we took off everything that was surplus. These actions resulted with 240 kg lighter car. Additionally, engine was completely reparated and electronic from RallyArt and MagnetiMarelli were replaced with brand new Vi-pec electronic. Besides completely new program was made for engine with 33mm restrictor ( till now 32mm). By doing that we gained some extra power and torque.

This is the driver and navigator.

Hi,
I have a problem from 5500 rpm
AFRs are increasing and not tracking the target
I would have to turn towards 11
I don't see what to modify because my duty injectors are almost at 100%
Thank you for your help

 
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/v6gywztiizstq5teg66zn/WRX9X-origine_modif.pclx?rlkey=w9gub5l4djit263s7v1p2h7v9&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/s0bgwxrepz8jdql1evq25/ECU-Log-2023-09-12-3-22-04-pm.llgx?rlkey=fg3e8ooiclnv2ykjo7foqz55m&dl=0
 
 

I have already managed to solve this, I attach a formula (image) to calculate the necessary resistor, in my case I have used 1W 80ohm
Although the ohm value is measured, it is necessary to see the real voltage to make the calculation, I have adjusted it as GP Temp (Ext Pullup) in anvolt6
I have used cal table 7
Volts
%
And then 3 divisions of
100%- 0,6v
50%- 3.3v
0%- 3.9v
are made at the rate of the sender unit voltage at each site
Hope this helps someone
 

Hi Team, I'm trying to send virtual Fuel tank information to my Powertune Display.
I have followed the instructions by setting the User stream to 3 and Can id to 1100 and transmit rate to 20hz as per the instructions.
Then added Custom frame to Stream3 with the values they shown in the instructions.
But for the life if me i cant get it to show in the display.
I can get what I want to see on PC link software. (attached Images)
Help...... I'm frazzled and need someone smarter than me to guide me.
Cheers
 
 

Has anyone successfully made an Estimated kW output based on the Driving Wheel Speed and Acceleration runtimes with the known variable of the vehicle weight?

So far just AFR based on lambda for when in mulit-fuel (because I'm old and dumb and think in gasoline AFR a lot).  Lambda1 * 14.7

Other various unit converstions for kpa to psi so I can look at fuel pressure in psi but table axis in kpa (similar reasons as above). 
 

I also did a % lambda error  - I was aware of the lambda error value but it is a lambda difference or offset I believe, and not a %. 

VE Corrected = ( Lambda / Lambda Target ) * Fuel Table
For open loop mode. 
VE Corrected = ( ( Lambda / Lambda Target ) * Fuel Table ) * ( (100 + CL Lambda Fuel Corr. ) / 100 ) 
Should be working for closed loop + open loop modes. I will confirm later.

My ideas:
Pump safety
Fit a speed sensor onto a dry sump pump.
Pump speed / engine speed
If the number goes out of bounds you pump has jammed or belt has broken. So you can see a fault before oil pressure needs to drop.
Coolant capacity %
Will experiment with this but essentially
( ECT - IAT) / (rad temp) x100
So will fiddle with this a bit and try get a number that represents your remaining cooling capacity even when ECT is stable. So you dont need to see ECT climb to know youre nearing saturation point. 
Could be handy for EWP logic.
 
L/100km & km/l 
Self explanatory. Need modelled fuel
 
BSFC
Need a dyno that outputs a hp figure connected with canbus. Also modelled fuel. But can tune an engine for best bang for buck. Which is otherwise difficult to see. But good for endurance cars etc.
 
Ignition time to 14 adtc
(Ign adv + 14) / rpm 
Shows time period to reach where peak combustion pressure should happen.
So could use as an axis on a table that trims your ign timing with afr variations, leaner mix needs more timing and vice versa.
But it would be nice if there was just an option to show timing as miliseconds anyway as this makes simple trim tables way more useful across a large rpm range 
 
 

I like to start a thread where everyone can add his Math channels, so a database is built. 
Please only post Math channels with short explanation in this thread. 
To keep it simple any discussion must be done in other threads. 
 
Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP
Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff 
Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press
Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed
Used to tune your LSD differential settings
 
Slip right = nondriven-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed
Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. attention after a curb). Add the same function another for left. Then it looks like this :-)  from 3.00min
 
Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP
Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff 
Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press
Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed
Used to tune your LSD differential settings
 
Slip right = non-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed
Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. Attention after a curb) to another function for left. Then it looks like this :-)  from 3.00min
 
Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP
Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff 
Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press
Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed
Used to tune your LSD differential settings
 
Slip right = non-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed
Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. Attention after a curb) to another function for left. Then it looks like this :-)  from 3.00min
 

Ciao ragazzi vi chiedo aiuto questo tipo di adattatore va bene per fare il collegamento da Link G4X a Realdash? 

Need to get an OTG and charging solution before making the mounting more permanent but it functions very well. 

Something like a 100-300ohm would be better.  

Would you need any of the resistors or pull-up then?
Or is it a safety consideration to drop the voltage further before passing it into the fuel sender?