Simon

The ECCS sync is only used on the 360 opto Nissan trigger mode. For all other modes this is not used and will say no all the time.

It is able to be wired as a stand alone dash if you wish. But with a suitable adapter you are able to wire the dash in via serial or CAN to the Link ECU. I think the Dash 2 has a serial input that is able to be wired directly up to our serial out on the CAN/Serial connector. To do this you would be best to use one of our CANF plugs. There is also a CAN adapter available from race technology.

If the pattern is the same then there is no need to change the sensors. You just need to wire the Crank trigger signal to trigger 1 and the cam to trigger 2 and then select K20 trigger mode in the trigger menu. If the sensors are reluctor as apposed to the Hall in the K20 then just change the sensor type in the trigger configuration via PC link.

Hi KD I think I will be able to do the bulk of this however it will take a fair wack of time. As need to translate the Toyota codes to what we would use. Ill see if I get a chance to hit this next week.

Nope that is bang on how I would be doing it. You soon get a feel for the master VS injector size. Even if you are a bit rich just be ready to pull or add fuel as required by moving the master around once the engine is running. You can of course use the modelled mode and then it takes the engine and injector size into the equation and if those details are correct the fuel should be close.

The table is MAP based and this is an absolute measurement. So 0psi is 100% vacuum and 15psi is roughly atmosphere.

Go for the 1 engine cycle. The 1/2 cycle is mainly for use on applications where the injectors are near the throttle plate.

If you want on the I series unit the latest PClink will talk to them so no need to use the iVTS However no known issues with windows 8 or 10 for that matter.

It is G1 Possum link. The fact there is a serial link with it is a good sign it might be PC tunable using V2.5 Pclink. There should be a sticker on the main micro giving a firmware version. Something like WRX99R If the code is WRX99Q, R or S it is PC tunable.

Check the short pulse width adder table under injector settings. This is a new feature and will need to be set correctly. It is a long table so be sure to scroll across the full table. If the information is not known for the injectors make sure the full table is set to 0.

Check the grounds for the sensor are 100% and check the temp sensor setting is on NTC which you have done. If you have the two wire bosch style temp sender then this should be ok. Only other factor would be the sensor ground for the ECU if this was not good it would effect all sensors.

That is a G1 unit so have moved the topic to the G1 section. If you perform a reload and then set the TPS span you will have a good starting point for a stock engine. With the 440's you might need to lower the master fuel number a little to get the mixtures leaner.

At crank you should see around 200-250 RPM No RPM indicates either crank or cam sensor issues or a connection issue between sensor and ECU or internal issues in the ECU.

We need to know number of teeth on the crank and cam position sensors. Honda in the 90's typically use a 24 and 1 tooth trigger in the distributor. Later motors like the S2000 and K series went to split sensors and multi coil and a very different trigger pattern.

Assuming it is doing that at key on and not while the engine is running? If this is the case it is just the ECU doing a tacho sweep. The tacho is not controlled via the bean network which is what the fuel gauge is controlled through.

One thing to note on the plugin ECU is that all the grounds are to the same ground plane in the ECU meaning all ground pins are connected together. On the Gen2/3 ecu the following pins are ground pins. 1, 14, 23, 26, and 46

Using an external logger could certainly be done currently. The internal logging however is not so easy.

Hi Chan Yep we can still service the ECUs if needed. Most of the parts are still available.

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Yep the frequency increase and that they are a differential input are the two differences. Being a differential input means they can piggy back the signal with out impacting the other device connected to the same sensor.

I haven't seen anything and all have now been cleared. You can try to my own one [email protected] We are fully gmail based. We have lots of mail coming in from all places every day so very unusual that one is not getting through. Feel free to use the PM option on here as well.

Hi Impellerhead I would not hold too high hopes for additional logging. We have looked hard at possibilities to increase this but there is no quick fix we can implement.

Could be a number of things causing the non start. The pop that you get is the coils can fire at the initial key on due to them getting 12V slightly faster than the ECU can power up. The first thing the ECU does once powered is to turn the coils off which can then cause them to all fire. Ideally you need to get a hand control or PC link connect at the time the engine is not starting. We need to see if it is getting an RPM signal. If you have fuel but no spark this points to a lack of a sync pulse from the sub-board. This could be a faulty cam sensor, broken wire from sensor, connection issue inside the ECU.

Hi Sutkale At this stage its still limited to 3000cc for the modeled mode. It is in the wish list.