Simon

When we originally looked the KMS the ECU needed to do all the scaling for the outputs as the dash was not able to do it. So in the G4+ and iSeries the scaling calculations are all in the firmware so the output will suit the dash. (custom written can stream) This might have changed and the dash might now allow different scaling calculations if this is the case then the V series could work.

When you refer to the pinout are you referring to a factory EVO pinout or the Storm pinout? If the factory EVO ECU provided the ground to the sensor then the Strom should be doing the same via the sensor ground wires / pin.

Hi Augusto Do you have a program that you use to draw these up? We have been looking if there were any good options out there in the market.

That would work. A bit of advice don't under estimate how solid the mounts for the crank sensor need to be. The smallest amount of movement can reek havoc with the trigger signals.

I would assume it was a limitation on the KMS that it couldn't be configured to suit.

Hall effect or reluctor are good to use. Avoid the gt101 for the crank trigger as these don't work well at higher frequencies. Wiring will depend on sensor choice. There are some very good crank trigger kits available such as the Ross dampers one.

Should be able to run that engine in sequential if you set the sync mode to Cam level. This is able to be done as for one passing of the gap on the crank the cam signal is low and on the next turn of the crank the cam signal is high. If however the engine is vvt and the cam moves relative to the crank you will have issues in this trigger mode.

Yep you only do it on the AN volt input as this is where the ECU sees the signal.

I would be checking the polarity of the crank and cam sensors are correct. You want a positive voltage as the tooth approaches the sensor and it to fall and go negative as the tooth moves past. If polarity is incorrect on either sensor you could get errors. Also try with a lower filter level on trigger2

Is the engine in the trigger list ? If it is then it will be easier to start with trigger two operational. To run group fire fuel just select multipoint group no need to rewire, But for wasted spark the coils would need to be paired up.

Looking at the instructions I suspect that will work with a direct signal. But if not then the pull up will be the next step. A 1K between signal and 12V would do the trick.

You can add additional streams at the ECU end im not sure how configurable the KMS is.

Yep spot on

The CAL needs to be in absolute so that 0kpa is 100% vacuum 100kpa is atmosphere and 200kpa is 1 bar of boost (~15psi)

Only issue I could see with this is that you then might loose some clues of what a problem was should there be a major issue.

1: Yes that is the correct model (current G4+) 2: Identical plugs and pinout just check that you do have the EVO 4-8 plug and not the later EVO 9 plug as some 8 models had the later ECU. 3: Yes once you have the new ECU powered up and connected you can then open / load the V44 map straight in. As the new ecu has more I/O you will need to check the configuration of this. 4: Yes, To make for an easy connection you would be best to get a CANPCB and a CANF to allow easy wiring to the dash. 5: The 'Transmit KMS CAN Display' Mode will send out the following parameters to the display. Engine Speed Oil Pressure ECT IAT MAP CAN TC Cyl 1 CAN TC Cyl 2 Gear Batt Voltage TPS Inj Actual PW Lambda 1 Lambda 2 Ign Angle Injector PW (Sec) BAP 6: Yes factory knock sensor can be used.

Unfortunately not as it is a Firmware limitation.

Yep you can wire in to the existing map sensor wiring. Just check the voltages is compatible with the replacement sensor. (don't wire a 5V sensor into a 12V supply) You will need to change the MAP sensor type via PC link and do a calibration. The ECU will have a default map loaded for that application. You will need to do the initial calibrations of TPS, map and ignition timing. before attempting to start.

Hi It will need igniters if the coils do not have them built in. Some Subaru coils do have an igniter others don't. Are you running coil on plug or a wasted spark configuration with coil and leads? How many pins on the coils? You will need to make sure you have an Aux out configured to control the fuel pump. It should run for about 3 seconds at key on and then turn off. However even if the fuel pump is running all the time it should not cause the engine to flood as the injectors should not be open when the engine is not running. Simon

Hi Dave I think what he is after. Is how to wire his atom in to a early Honda loom / plug i.e A pinout of the Honda with connections to the atom listed. This is not something that we have.

Too keep it the same as old the 1K pullup is the one to go for.

Start by upping the master fuel a bit. I would really suggest getting a TPS on there as it will give much better fuelling under acceleration. It also stops the risk of the fuel being locked out under crank. If TPS is above 80 at crank the fuel will be cut.

Could be as simple as needing the arming voltages adjusted. Or it could be a noise issue or cam timing issue. If its only one or two errors at the first crank but no errors once engine is at stable speed then it not an issue.

Selling on the V44 will be the go as this will get you the best price. The replacement will be Link Xtreme plugin. As the Vi-pec brand is now Powersports only. http://www.linkecu.com/Products/Mitsubishi These have the knock also.

Needs to come back unfortunately. Not able to be done in the field.