Adamw

I just searched through our tech support tickets and I found another case where aux 6 & 7 needed to be swapped. You can do this either by swapping pin 21 & 22 at the main ecu header or pin 1 & 6 at the idle motor.

Ok, I think I have some explanation for the apparent ground offset. There was apparently a small number of G4X plug-in ecu's manufactured early this year with a supposedly equivalent alternative op-amp used in the trigger scope circuit due to a supply shortage of the normal part. It was discovered after a short time that this was causing a variable offset to be generated in the triggerscope capture. The calculated affect was an average offset of 500mV, with about +/- 500mV range, so yours is sitting near the worst case. The good news is this out-of-spec part only affects the voltage recorded by the trigger scope, the trigger conditioning circuit, thresholds, and signals seen by the processor will all be seeing the correct voltages and working as normal. We can arrange collection of the ecu if you wish to have the part replaced now, or you can continue finishing/tuning etc and arrange repair at a more convenient time.

What channel are you talking about? I set up most of your statuses to be encoded to read OFF, ON or FAUL(t).

So, if you pull the can l/h wires out of the ecu connector and measure voltage on those (measure to ground) do you see a voltage difference there?

The G1 has a standard reluctor board in it, so this would be for an engine that has a 1 tooth per TDC trigger with a reluctor sensor on both trig 1/2. For example a 4AGE or honda with the 4 tooth dizzy. The purpose of the sub-board in the G2 is a bit different. The trigger decoding and trigger offset etc in the G2 is done in software like more modern ecu's. The subboard in this case is only used to condition the raw trigger signal into a nice filtered square wave. Your G2 has a hall/opto sub-board in it so it can be used on any engine that has 2 hall sensors and is supported in the trigger mode settings in the software.

On the Tyco plug I have always connected CAN L/H to pin 3 & 7, although Im pretty sure 2 & 8 are just connected to the the same internally. You dont need to worry about the termination loop or the empty socket in the hub. For connection to the ecu, just in case you are using a Link CAN cable, be aware the Haltech DTM4 pinout is different to Link.

So did you follow the instructions in the help file? Please attach a copy of your tune if you have followed those instructions and they are not showing.

Megalogviewer HD is probably the most widely used (You need the paid version about USD$50), I dont like it much visually and lacks many functions, but the histograms do work really nice in it. The biggest thing in its favour is plenty of support on facebook etc. https://www.efianalytics.com/register/viewProduct.jsp?productCode=MegaLogViewerHD Baldur Gislason has a pretty good free one built into his calibrator software, I have never been able to get the histograms to work correctly in it but otherwise it is quite good. Fairly basic, so wont cover all tasks. There is a decent manual on his site. https://controls.is/calibrator/ I mostly use Lifeview from Liferacing since I got quite familiar with it at my last job. Very powerful once you know your way around but piss poor documentation and for some stuff you can waste hours trying to figure something out by trial and error. https://www.liferacing.com/uploads/files/PC Software/LifeSetup-Generic-EcuOnly-2023-03-16.zip

Try this. GPS speed will be received as CAN DI Freq 8, and that is set up as the source for both driven and driving wheel. Number of satellites is received as CAN AN 8. tune7 AK With CAN GPS speed.pclx

If you are measuring on the ecu then that is expected, the ecu is not outputting any data, just listening. If you are measuring whats coming out of the egt box then you should see different voltages on H/L.

There is something not happy with your ECU. There are errors and odd values showing everywhere. There is potentially a hardware issue but lets rule out software first. I see it has quite old firmware so start by updating that. One that is done, go to >ecu controls>restore to factory settings and preform that. Then do a power cycle and re load your map in. Then take a look at the runtimes screen to confirm if some of these weird errors are gone. For example on the ecu status tab of the runtimes screen below, there shouldn't be the hardware block 1 or 5v Analog supply error, The ECU temp should read about room temp, the Trig 1 Arming should show about 1.5V and the analog supply should show about 5V.

An example table below showing how I would usually assess and plan IO. So it looks like you will probably need 5 ADIO's for outputs, that will leave you 3 spare. In the case of a race car you could do most of the controls with he keypad, but in a road car it is often nicer to have a "stalk" for at least indicators and high beam which would need to be wired to ADIO's or DI's on the ECU.

Yeah, if the scope is still showing 0.9V with A5 & A7 shorted then there is some internal issue with the ecu I think. Let me talk to the hardware team for some thoughts.

Is the GPS speedo wired to CAN 1 or 2?

I think you would have enough outputs to power what you list, but if you need switches connected for all those devices too I think you will run out of pins quick. Do you have a Link ecu also or are you talking about using the PDM standalone?

I want the map out of your ECU.

I have only personally tested a box A TC2 and a box A TC4, so im making an educated guess for the ID for the box b. TC2 Box A uses 712 & 714. TC4 Box A uses 716 & 718. So I think the most likely for box b is 717 & 719. You map attached is set up that way. The probes connected to box A will be received into the ECU as CAN TC Cyl 1-4. The probes connected to box B will be received into the ECU as CAN TC Cyl 5-8. If the CAN TC Cyl 5-8 runtimes stay at zero then try changing the receive user stream 2 ID to 715. Tune with CAN settings 2.pclr

I dont really see any obvious issue there. Im assuming a magnet will stick to the crank wheel (ie its not made from stainless)? The drawing on the datasheet suggests the sensor should be oriented opposite what you have, but I have never seen 180deg clocking cause an issue before - I have only seen an issue with some sensors when clocked 90deg from how they should be. And especially at cranking speed I really dont think that is the problem in this case. Looking at your crank sensor pic, can you confirm you have ground on the left pin, trig 1 on the centre and 12V on the right? Looking at your scope again, when the teeth "disapper", the voltage is sitting at zero, that means the sensor is not seeing the "gaps" between the teeth. You could try increasing the air gap more to see if that reduces the magnetic flux enough. Even just try something temporary as a spacer like a piece of cardboard or similar, I would give it about an extra 1mm air gap. If all those questions check out and more air gap doesnt solve it, then I think I wouldnt waste any more time on that sensor and just get a Littelfuse 55505 or ZF GS101201, both these will be quite an easy swap, I think the bolt hole will line up and you will just need about a just need about a 8mm spacer under them. Both of these are very forgiving sensors in terms of wheel design and air gap etc.

You can view the CAN Aux runtimes in PC Link, including status, duty and frequency that is being output. What do they tell you?

Attach a trigger scope and I will confirm which trigger mode it matches.

Haltech TCA8 CAN wont work with a TC4. Attach your tune, confirm whether you have box a or b and which CAN port it is wired to.

They will likely be different hardware versions. The only difference between the Power enabled mode and Ign Sw mode is that the USB cable can act like an ignition sw in power enabled mode, so it is not a big difference in terms of safety.

Can you short pin A5 to A7 with a paperclip or piece of wire and do a scope capture like that.

I would say no based on this:

Adjust the fuel table values until the lambda reads correct. Make your table look like this one: 5. Crank wheel would be better with the missing teeth passing the sensor about 90BTDC or 90ATDC, for best timing accuracy and more reliable missing tooth detection when cranking with a flat battery etc, but it should be fine as is and is not related to your poor running.