Adamw

I notice you have really large VE numbers at idle and I have seen this before with a couple of other users with ID1050X injectors. So Im suspicious that the ID supplied deadtimes may be a bit off when using Link drivers (they use Motec M1's for their characterisation). So you will probably find more error at idle and it will work better at higher loads. A couple of things I noticed in your tune which changing will probably help this error a tiny bit: Your deadtime table has fuel pressure on the Y axis, it should instead be differential fuel pressure (Pressure across the injector is what affects deadtimes). I think the Stoich ratio for E30 should be more like 13.0, that is assuming Eth is 9.0 and petrol is 14.7 and we are using a 30/70 split between those. I would experiment with increasing the deadtimes a little to see if you can get this open loop target correction working better and more realistic VE numbers around idle. I would typically expect VE of 50-65% at idle, you have 78ish.

We have a 2UR in house which I suspect is probably similar, but it has a G5 on it so the PID values wont be much good. I could possibly test with a G4+ if you get stuck though.

If the ecu is controlling the ignition the distributor should be locked. It looks like your coils are GM LS*. The way you interpret the water pump table is to think of the numbers in there as "Percent max speed". So for example at 1000RPM your water pump will be at 33% speed with a cold engine, until the coolant reaches 60°C, after that it ramps up to 66% by 70°C and from there ramps up to 99% at 90°C. So the pump is doing max speed at 90°C already.

Note the "A" in the acronym MAP stands for Absolute. 0 absolute pressure is a total vacuum, you cant have negative absolute. The dash2pro stream sends MGP so it is wrong for the original realdash xml to use target ID 31 which is Manifold Absolute Pressure. In my set up I was sending MAP from the ecu rather than MGP so that it matched the ID31 with no "-100" offset.

Just do a manual calibration. Turn the E-throttle relay off, push the throttle blade fully closed, type in the closed voltages, then push it fully open and type in the open voltages. What ECU are you working with?

It will need a lot more than just turning on. Yes you should see knock levels reported once you enable it, and set the appropriate settings, allocate trim tables etc. But that wont tell you anything about knock - Every part of the knock control function will need tuning and validating before you can assume it is working correctly and use it as a safety, this is usually done by an experienced tuner with a dyno and audio knock equipment. This is usually done as one of the last steps when the rest of the ecu tune is optimised.

The problem is your intake cam is about 20degs more advanced from where it should be, this is causing one of the sync edges to cross over the sync point. In the pic below, blue is crank, green is cam, the yellow cursor line is the sync point where the ecu starts counting cam teeth. You can see I have put a little pink line on the offending cam edge, notice how close this is to the yellow line. If the cam moves just 1 deg further to the left the ecu will then see less teeth on the right side of that line than it should. That pink line usually has a good 20 deg margin away from the sync point. Looking at internet pictures of EJ cam sprockets it looks like they have about 48 teeth, so if you move it one tooth backwards (~15deg) that should put the cam timing closer to where it should be and solve the trigger issue.

The factory sensor is connected to the ecu dedicated knock input pin, you dont need to change any wiring or add any sensors.

What do you mean by regraphed? Does it still have mechanical advance in it? What coils do you have?

In many ECU's in batch fire mode the injector timing is locked at a fixed point. In G4X it does exactly what you tell it to do. You are right though, it would generally make little difference to how the engine runs in multipoint group mode. it may hint that your injector spray pattern is poor so timing makes a big difference to how much vapor Vs liquid fuel gets into the cylinder. It doesnt, it only knows position within 360degs. So Inj timing of 390BTDC is the same as inj timing set to 30BTDC. In the captures below, trigger offset is 0 and ign timing is zero, ign mode is wasted spark, so 0BTDC is the first falling edge after the trig 1 missing teeth, you can see in the first pic the end of injection and spark both occur in the same place. Inj timing 0BTDC: Inj timing 390BTDC (30BTDC would give same result): Inj timing 550BTDC (190BTDC would give same result):

If you dont want to do as the tuner suggested which would be perfectly fine, then you should use the expansion connectors. You will have to find your own +12V supply but one of the expansion connectors has 5 spare DI's on it and signal ground. Ground is actually not critical for a digital signal either - you could use chassis ground if easier. C29 is not used by the link ECU, and most users dont bother with the VTEC oil press switch on DI2 either. Note also DI 1 is connected to both Pin C29 and Expansion pin 8, so if using Expansion 8 ensure C29 is disconnected.

What ECU do you have? The atom and monsoon dont have a DSP onboard for processing knock so they used an external processor, this is what the external option is for. Internal is for ECU's that have the onboard knock processor, this would be Strom, Xtreme, plug-ins etc. Knock control using an analog input was only in early firmware and was later removed as it didnt work very well, this was for external knock controllers like the old J&S safegaurd, some dynos and other tuning tools such as plex knock monitor.

I would suspect a similar work around to this:

Please do a trigger scope and attach. One at idle and one at 4000RPM.

Aux 6 & 7 were originally for the heaters in the stock narrowband sensors, they will be connected to nothing at the moment if you have widebands fitted.

Ah, I dont think that is intended, I ask the firmware team to take a look when they are back from holiday.

I dont see much wrong in there. I suspect either your injectors flow more than you believe, the dead times are too long, or the fuel press is higher than what you have set. More realistic values in the charge temp approximation table will help a little in the right direction but not by much I think. As a test I would turn off Async injection and wall wetting comp just in case they are adding extra fuel due to unstable MAP or something but I tested your map on the bench simulating similar conditions as your log and got pretty much the same PW.

Thats pretty hard to read, and it is going to make it pretty tough when it comes to building the harness. Have you ever used "Scheme-it"?, I would typically start with something like that, then do like a point to point connection list in excel or similar and a layout with some type or drawing software. I only had a quick look over the engine bit. A couple of things that looked out of place: "Coolant low sensor" is connected to aux 4? The two oil pressure switches are connected to AN Volt inputs, thats not going to work since they dont output any voltage. Connect to digital inputs.

The fuel pressure sensor is typically measuring rail pressure so the analog input it is connected to has no awareness of manifold pressure. The error setting on the fuel pressure sensor analog input will make the rail pressure appear to be fixed at 3bar with no increase with boost to the ecu. The engine will go rich because the ecu will think the differential pressure is dropping so will increase inj PW.

Do you have a cam sensor or no?

The aux is set to activite anytime the engine RPM is greater than 0 - i.e whenever the engine is running, but that doesnt necessarily mean the pump is running. If you look down the bottom of that same screen you have that "GP PWM 1 DC" table, this is what controls the water pump speed. So you will want to look at that table to see what it is set up to do. Something is very wrong if you need 70deg of advance, Either the offset is very wrong or you are using the wrong spark edge or something. What does it have for an ignition system and how are you checking the timing?

Not quite sure what you are asking here. If you are asking if it matters which ADIO's you combine, no.

I cant see why anyone would connect CAN lambdas to aux outputs, are you sure about that statement? What is the intent of that?

Ok that should be fine. I would expect those coils to be happy up with up to about 500mv offset. So if it runs ok with B grounded to the cyl head then I would just leave it like that, it will be difficult to find why it is not happy with ECU ground without a scope etc. I have seen many of those coils grounded that way working without drama although I do prefer to have that referencing ecu ground.