Adamw

You can try talking to the AU office to see if they have an ecu they can lend you, im not sure what they have. Head office can do much more complete testing though so it would also be worth sending back to NZ if they dont have something they can loan you. Probably even an Xtreme would be fine for testing.

Yes, injector drives dont have flywheel diodes so wont back feed.

It shouldnt do if everything is in good condition.

No, still looks pretty ugly. Did you check mechanical runout etc as suggested above? Still looks more electrical to me but need to eliminate the mechanical possibilities I guess. Can you do another trigger scope with all spark plugs out to see if it cleans up with less starter motor current passing through the wiring.

Wiring info is in the help file. Use the contents tab to navigate to the following page: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoids > Specific VVT Applications > Toyota 2UZFE VVT Wiring We used to have a 1UZ vvt dyno engine, I found the map below attached below that may be a starting point. It is from a very early G4X prototype so I dont know how good it is but give it a try. RAT 4 Base Map for G4X 6.7.11.pclx

It is not on our plans for the foreseeable future. Have you even driven a car set up that way that worked well? I set one up (DQ250 into an early golf) with a Maxx ecu ~2 years ago and I wasnt really happy with the end result. When using the stock mechatronics unit all the shift parameters, shift decisions, clutch pressures, torque reduction requests etc are all as they were designed for the original application, unlikely to be anything close to suitable for a different chassis or engine. I reflashed the mechatronics probably 100 times over a month or so trying to fix things but never really got a shift that was anything close to a stock VW shift. That was my first one and not many people had experience with them back then so I may have missed some tricks but i certainly wouldnt do it again.

The picture is very small so not completely clear, but that looks more like a very common 36-1 wheel pattern to me.

Can you attach your map or a picture showing what you mean.

Attach a copy of your tune and a short PC log of it cranking.

I thought I explained it above. Before calibration the ecu has no idea which way is open or close and which way the motor has been wired. So it first powers the motor in one direction, zeros the TPS, then powers in the other direction, sets this to 100%. Then it turns off power to the motor, if it sees the throttle blade move backwards towards the "zero" position then it knows the calibration was done in the correct direction. If it turns power off and the blade doesnt move then it suggests the blade was already closed - therefore it has been calibrated "back to front".

Yep, you've def got something wrong with TPS sub, it appears to be working - the voltage changes when you move the throttle, but your TPS sub closed voltage is set to 0.91 V and the ANV4 is moving between 0.7 & 0.9V, hence it shows zero all the time. TPS closed voltage was set at 0.63V in your screenshot a couple of posts up so either something have changed there or it was never stored after calibration or something.

Are you connected to an ecu or using a map that is from a recent firmware when testing this? I see there is a note in 6.22.44 that says "fixed secondary deadtime table visibility in settings menu", so I assume this was known and fixed. Im not at a pc now but will try to have a look tomorrow.

The ECU has to stop broadcasting messages when the transmit error counter reaches 255, this will give the "Bus off" error. So that explains why no data, but that is not the root cause of the problem. As Confuse suggests you likely have a wiring or set up issue.

TPS is a pretty important input linked to many functions - Idle control, accel enrichment, launch control, gear shift, logging activation, lockouts for many functions etc. I would get one back on there as soon as you can

This will happen if the return spring is not strong enough to close the throttle on its own when the ecu does a direction test by turning off power to the motor when blade is fully open. On a conventional throttle if the ecu turns off power after the calibration and sees the the TPS move significantly due to the spring (towards closed) then it knows it was working in the correct direction. If it doesnt move significantly from what it believes was the open position then it considers it is probably set up backwards and was already closed. In your case it may just be there is not enough spring to naturally return the motor and blades to nearly closed. Just do a manual calibration instead, turn off E-throttle relay, move throttle to full open with fingers, note down the TPS main and sub voltages. The push blades fully closed and note down closed voltages. Then manually type the open/closed voltages into the TPS settings.

Not sure what you mean here, really it has to be either parallel or Sequential - not both. Parallel is where both turbos run all the time (typically both the same size), this is just like controlling a single turbo. Sequential is where you have all air & exhaust going through only one turbo until some load/pressure/RPM threshold is met, then the 2nd turbo is blended in - sometimes the 1st turbo is blended out at the same time. Usually one turbo is smaller than the other. This type of system is much more complex with several valves/flaps in intake and exhaust manifolds to control as well as separate wastegate controls on each turbo. I would say too difficult for the average enthusiast.

That doesnt look like it has ever been calibrated. Can you do a PC log of a drive around the block changing through all gears.

As for controlling stuff connected to the PDM via the ECU, you can do most of the same stuff with custom streams in G4+. The main functionality that is missing in G4+ is it is pretty limited in what PWM type functions can be sent over CAN. From memory you can do boost control, idle control & fuel pump speed, you cant do any "GP PWM's". In terms of sending button presses and other logic from Keypad/PDM to control things in the ECU such as boost control etc, that is mostly possible - there are a couple of exceptions, from memory the "start/stop button" function doesnt accept a CAN input as well as traction control disable - there are some workarounds. Logging PDM stuff such as output currents, voltages, temps, etc will be much more limited in G4+. There is quite complete documentation of the PWM messages in the G4X help file, but Im happy to help guide you if needed.

Yes. Blink make quite a range, we only stock a small range of what we thought would be most commonly requested. Check out the 3 catalogs below. Otherwise they have blanks that you can have laser engraved to whatever you want, or some companies use the clear one with a label on top. https://media.blinkmarine.com/icons-list-automotive https://media.blinkmarine.com/icons-list-motorsport https://media.blinkmarine.com/icons-list-marine This is a subject I dont know much about. I assume it would come down to what type of signal or control the LED driver wanted. Quite possibly any that use a variable voltage signal could be controlled with just PWM, possibly with a simple low pass filter (resistor + capacitor) inline.

The ch1 vertical res setting isn’t clear clear in that pic but I think it is set to 500mV. So your signal is only reaching ~0.8V. It needs to reach about 1.7V before the ecu will detect it

It does sound very much like a power supply loss if connection is lost and engine stops at the same time. Where abouts are you in the world? Was the ecu returned to NZ? Whats the wiring/battery set up like in the car - battery in the boot/trunk or anything?

V4 & 5 should be the same triggers as far as I know. Assuming you have changed the V7 crank trigger to the V4/5 one?

TPS can work either way around - voltage rising or falling with opening. If moving voltage is showing on the analog input raw voltage but the TPS runtime is not moving then there is something wrong with your software setup. Can you attach your tune and a short PC log of a couple of pedal movements.

The "reverse sync" one is wrong, the other 2 look good.

Either 42 or 52 is fine, dont nned both. And yes pin 30 is sensor ground.