Adamw

The voltage measured at the ecu unlikely has much resemblence of what the voltage is at the pump, you really need to measure voltage at the pump it that is your concern. Your pressure drops with increasing duty cycle so it is obviously a lack of fuel flow, but that may or may not be caused by pump voltage.

We need a trigger scope and a copy of your tune. I would also suggest you improve the battery voltage problem, you only have 6-8V when cranking, the hall effect sensors may drop out when voltage dips that low.

I think it is still a trigger problem, if you look at battery voltage it is constant in the area where RPM dropped to zero so I think it must still be cranking, just the trigger has lost position so it sets RPM to zero until it re-syncs. Can you do another trigger scope when it is cranking

Have you confirmed ignition timing? (turn fuel off so it doesnt kick back). Have you tried shifting trigger offset by 360?

The toyota multiplex is a single wire system, the MPX1&2 pins are internally connected - just coming/going from different devices, same data on both pins. So MPX1/2 being swapped would be an issue. Is the tacho and coolant temp gauge working? From memory the AC needs both these working. Otherwise I would agree with wastegate - possibly the JZS171 bean has some differences to the altezza.

Your ECU is using firmware 6.22.13 in the logs and map attached above, the "720 sync" functionality was only added to the Rover 14/3/13/2 trigger mode in a later version 6.22.19. Can you update the ecu firmware to the latest and see if starting is more reliable then.

MAP and MGP look realistic. Are you still worried about variable lambda? You have CLL bouncing on and off during idle and working pretty hard in general, is mixture more stable with CLL disabled?

Differential fuel pressure looks quite stable in that log. The battery voltage only drops when your RPM dips a bit low when coming back to idle.

Yep def looks like that to me. I have never actually seen them ignore all teeth like this but I've seen them "stretch out" either the tooth before the gap or tooth after - cant remember.

Dont really know, but it looks quite acceptable, at least it is occuring in approximately the same crank position in 2 revolutions. All the ecu does for "cam pulse 1X" sync mode is check if it saw a cam tooth in the last crank revolution or not, its position or length is generally not important - as long as it is away from the sync tooth which it is in this case. The "length" is most likely something to do with the sensitivity or orientation of the sensor - it may be detecting the cam tooth just when it gets near, rather than directly under the sensor.

There are a few odd effects in your log: Battery voltage is very erratic and alternator is not charging. MAP is quite erratic and very high (ie barely any vacuum at idle) There are patches of erratic movement on the TPS trace, this doesnt look like it is someones foot doing that. The erratic battery voltage may suggest there is a bad ground, possibly the main 12V supply to the ecu is missing (ecu pin 5), or some other loose connection somewhere. You could try disconnecting the alternator just to confirm it isnt caused by a bad diode in that or something. The erratic MAP and very little vacuum usually indicates a mechanical issue, but one possible explanation - does this engine maybe have ITB's? Whats your thoughts on the TPS signal - were you really working the pedal hard or is that a genuine issue? One other thought - have you checked rotor phasing?

Yeah def a fuel pressure issue I would say. Pink traces are the old log, coloured traces are the newer log. 100Kpa difference at same RPM & MAP.

You have Lambda error 24 in that log which means the current regulator is at its limit. This would usually be a large amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas (ie a big leak) or a failed sensor.

Something a bit weird with that triggerscope, it only shows 10 teeth in 2 seconds of cranking? Is it 36-2 or 36-1? You mention 36-2 in your post above but your map is set for 36-1. Yes 55505 or ZF GS101202 or GS101201

Will need a log and tune. So are you saying it was running better before? What has changed - just the spark edge and re set base timing?

There is RPM and dwell and no cuts in that log so the ECU is commanding spark. How are you determining there is no spark? If the CAS is in the stock position try the trigger offset at -100

Attach the tune and a log.

I just googled "electromotive trigger wheel" and some of the pictures show a good design with the "1/2 depth missing teeth", while some others pictures show a more troublesome design with full depth missing teeth. So perhaps they changed their design at some point? An article from the help file below, do your missing teeth look like the "correct design" at the top or the "incorrect" at the bottom? Electromotive may have got away with this design by adding significant load to the trigger circuit as their ecu was originally designed to only work with one specific trigger wheel/sensor combo - we cant really do that as then the ecu wouldnt work well with all the other triggers we need to support. Whats the wiring like - are you still using the electromotive wiring or have you started from scratch? I may have a couple of ideas we can try once I get some of these questions above answered. Check your wheel is running true in the meantime though.

That's not too unusual in my experience, most likely some type of intake resonance as you pass through its natural frequency. OEM's try to make this "sweet spot" as wide and flat as possible but with aftermarket parts, changes to intake and exhaust systems, different cam profiles etc it tends to become a bit more random. Resonance in the fuel rail can cause a similar effect but it is usually "sharper". Your fuel pressure looks ok to me in the 40Hz PC log, but try ecu logging ANV8 raw voltage at 500Hz to get a better idea if fuel pressure is contributing.

What is the wideband? Fuel pressure is a bit more variable that normally see - your dif FP varies from 218-250kpa in just that 20seconds of idling. Have you got any old logs to compare?

Your first tooth following the gap isnt always crossing zero. This is possibly due to a poor wheel design. Where did the trigger wheel come from and what is the design like around the missing tooth area? There is also a lot of variation of the wave form amplitude (height/voltage) which may also suggest you have excessive mechanical run-out. This is not actually causing a problem in this scope, but 35V difference in half a crank revolution is fairly extreme and would likely indicate some accuracy issues.

Preferably yes. Shield and the ground wire can be connected to the same pin at the ecu end.

This pic is from a 2010 V8 XC90 wiring diagram: Based on this the pinout would be: +12V Feedback - not needed Ground Signal.

Inj 8 is still off in that log.

Assuming a 2 wire sensor then polarity doesnt matter, wire one pin to ecu pin 6 and the other to sensor ground (pin 7 or 24)