Adamw

I suspect they wont make a lot of difference. Turning off the IAT trim would add some fuel, but putting some realistic numbers in the charge temp table will pull some fuel out - so they will likely almost cancel each other out. More likely deadtime related if the VE is only exaggerated at idle and normal at higher pulsewidths.

Typically with this type of strategy you wouldnt re-zero the TPS, idle would just be at 20% TP or whatever you have it at. Although it wouldnt really matter if you re-zeroed, as long as the cyclic high and low are set to match it should work either way I think. The reason for your RPM runaway is you dont have any antilag cut/retard set up. You currently have your AL enable set at 3000RPM & 50% TP, so when you blipped your throttle both of these conditions were met so cyclic turns off and antilag activates. The antilag is set to stay active for 5 secs after these conditions are no longer met. You dont have any antilag cuts or retard set up so with 20% throttle, no cuts and no retard then it is going to rev high.

I only have experience with the KA sensors and holinger ones, both quite expensive unfortunately. Any analog 0-5V or digital output type will work - analog is preferred so you can adjust in the ecu software.

Yes

Can you do a log of the TP calibration procedure. It looks like the throttle is working though, what is the problem you are trying to solve?

Launch control. Your VSS is exceeding the max frequency on DI4, so the speed drops to zero which then means your launch activation conditions are met. G4+ DI's are only rated for 500Hz so you have done well to get to 1600Hz...

Your VE around the idle area is only around 30-40% in that map? This is not high - typical would be more like 50-60%. For modelled mode the IAT trim should be turned off and the charge temp approximation needs some realistic numbers in there. Use the example table in the help file.

Here is the factory wiring diagram. ECU Pin 11 goes to the AC relay, the AC relay coil gets its supply from ign "on", fuse #5. And here is the EL power section that is referenced in the first diagram - showing fuse 5 only gets 12V with ign in ON position, there is no connection in Off, ACC or Start positions.

If the sensor is heating that means it is not receiving any CAN. When it is receiving CAN it will not turn on until after the engine has started. So most likely you have a CAN wiring issue. Can you give use some photos of all the CAN connections. Attach your tune also.

Sounds like Ign 4 is possibly damaged. You can use the same COP coils in wasted spark, just wire them in pairs.

You have probably used up your allocated upload allowance, you can share your files using google drive, onedrive etc.

Note you can connect all CAN devices to the same bus, dont need 2 separate buses. As well as the options KO mentioned, Aux 4 may be another option for the 2nd pump - the fuel consumption signal is only specifically needed for the auto trans models (obviously gauge on dash wont work without it though).

There is no back pressure compensation applied to the Fury internal wideband controller or any third party device connected via analog input.

I would expect a single common relay will be fine. Assuming that extension has all 6 wires connected it would be fine (some others like Innovate only have 5 wires and rely on free air calibration instead). Yeah you will want at least the majority of the large spikes damped.

Only the Link CAN lambda's have EMAP compensation so they can do individual cyl measurement. Since the Fury only has a single sensor it would rarely be used pre turbine.

I have only ever used it with a kicker that is enabled after starting, but I would expect it should still work the way you have - possibly just more difficult to start. Will need a log and your tune. The tune you have in the google link does not even have ALS set up.

You can use a strain gauge to initiate the gear shift control function, but not that specific one. The FuelTech shift knob doesnot have a strain gauge amp built in - instead they have a dedicated circuit to make it usable inside their ecu. That knob is also not temperature compensated so not really any good for anything but drag racing.

What makes you think the displayed lambda isnt correct? Please attach a log and the tune.

It comes in as CAN AN1. You can use the 3 values just like any other switch or analog channel to do whatever you want - change throttle tables, boost tables, adjust speed limit, enable launch control, rolling antilag, etc etc.

When you change to a 3D table it uses a GP table. Im not sure why you would change to 3D unless you have data from the manufacturer? Here is what I see when I open the Supra base map:

Accel fuel is acceleration enrichment - extra fuel that is added when the throttle is opened quickly to make up for the lost fuel puddle.

That cable you have there is either the old "CANDASH" cable (which is designed for the old DisplayLink so has the RS232 pins connected), or it is possibly an old USB tuning cable that someone has modified - again this would have the RS232 pins connected so is no good. You can either cut that cable open near the plug and snip the yellow and grey wires, or use a CANF plug to make your own cable with only CAN H/L connected.

This is a back feed issue as I mentioned earlier. Inj drives dont have a flywheel diode so wont back feed, aux outputs do have a flywheel diode so will back feed if the aux device has power when the ecu is off. So the problem is the 12V supply to your AC clutch and Fan relay must be connected to a supply that turns on in the ACC position rather than only in Ign position like it should.

What do you mean by "MAP count"?