Adamw

Cruise is not CAN bus on these cars, the cruise buttons on the steering wheel are still connected to plain old IO. You need 1 spare analog input (with a pull-up added) or a temp input, and 1 DI. On the V11 the cruise lights on the dash are controlled by CAN, whereas on the gen 2 cars the cruise lights were connected to ecu outputs. I noticed when testing in a few "V11" cars that even the models that didnt have cruise from factory still had the full clock spring and all the cruise wiring already there. Only the steering wheel buttons were missing. Just mentioning this as it may make your search for parts easier. I would expect the forrester to be the same, dont think the cruise is done by CAN.

Your batt voltage measured at the ecu when cranking drops to about 10.2V, looking at the dwell table it is possibly a bit conservative around that voltage. You could try increasing that to 7ms or so, it may give a bit more ign energy. The other thing I would try is just turn on the injection to see if it runs. A trigger offset of 0 should be close enough to run one of these I think. Then check timing once running.

Yeah they do look ok but I have never used them. The one time I tried everyone was out of stock with very long leadtimes. But it would have to be a pretty reliable sensor to sway me away from the Bosch press/temp ones. The connector is not my favorite but the sensors seem to be way more reliable than anything else I have tried.

Is logged dwell in the ecu match what the dwell table is commanding? - if there is a trigger problem the reported dwell will be erratic. Do you have spark edge set to falling?

Yes dwell and spark edges are opposite. Only our very old ecu's used the "dwell edge" terminology.

Assign your "table 4" cal for all sensors. The ECU knows to treat one as absolute when you set the analog input function to "MAP"

Quite a few vendors sell what appears to be the same generic alibaba Chinese one, inc Haltech, Trailbrake etc. I would probably go for trailbrake's one as at least they publish the CAN data for theirs. https://trailbrake.com/tire-tpms/

Your trigger scope shows no signal on any of those 3 cams connected to DI's? If you set the cam angle test to say inlet bank 1, do you get any absolute cam angles reported in the VVT tab of the runtimes screen?

Obviously you cant send a decimal point over CAN, so for 2DP you multiply the lambda value by 100 at the ecu end, then divide by 100 when received at the dash end.

For the aux9/10 supply error, this is because pin B5 voltage is low. In your map the battery voltage (pin A5) was 11.9V, but pin B8 was only 10.4V. You cant disable this error as this supply is needed regardless of using E-throttle or not. For the lambda I would say you also have low voltage at lambda connector pin#4.

I really cant see any reason for this. Has anything changed since running with the other ECU? Relocated battery or anything? Does it still run with the other ecu? Can you check the coils still have 12V when cranking.

There is correct, stable cranking RPM and dwell showing in the log, so the ecu is commanding a spark. The rest of the setup looks ok to me. Some timing lights wont reliably pick up a spark during cranking if for example the timing is way off. Can you actually pull a plug out so you can see the spark gap and watch it while cranking.

As with any sensor, the ecu is measuring the voltage between the signal wire and ground, so yes the sensor that is connected last needs to have one side connected to ground. This is exactly the same as the factory, you shouldnt need to change any of the wiring.

Your set up all looks ok to me I expect it will work. The wastegate DC in your screenshot is showing 0% most likely because you are below the MAP activation. Next time have a look at the parameter "Boost Control Status", this will usually give you some good clues to what the boost control function is doing.

Do you mean cruise control (use throttle to acheive a set target speed), or a speed limiter (use torque reduction/cuts to prevent exceeding a set maximum speed limit)? What would be the purpose? Sounds dangerous AF to me but maybe Im missing the context.

Yeah is fairly common to put MAP on one axis and drop the DC in the cells above your desired boost so you get a form of very basic proportional control. Easiest thing for you would be to just select the whole table and hit "+2" or whatever to add 2% to all values in the table.

Yes, it sounds like the MAP is failing provided you have confirmed the 5V is ok and confirmed the voltage output with a voltmeter or similar. Can you attach the tune so we can look at your lambda problem.

Use a virtual aux to assign the conditions you want to start and reset the timer. In the example below the timer will start as soon as any limiter becomes active, if the TPS is above 50% when on the limiter then virtual aux 1 will "latch on" and keep timing, it will only reset when TP goes below 50%. If the TP never went above 50% when the limiter was hit then the timer would reset as soon as the limiter went off. For the limit table you can just set the RPM limit table allocation to 3D and put timer 1 on one axis. You can use the GP limit tables for custom stuff also, either will do.

Can you attach your map and possibly a short PC log. Aux 1-8 is fine for boost control.

You can splice the sensor ground to as many sensors as you like.

We dont have any info for the XV and havent tested one so I couldnt say with any confidence that we could support that chassis.

I dont see anything obvious tune related. Did you change the warmup enrichment table after you done that log? In the log is has about 2% warmup enrichment still working at 80°C, but in the tune it has 20% in that cell? Your closed loop lambda is in MAP lockout a lot, not sure if it has always been like that or if the MAP signal has gotten noisier for some reason. Do you have an old log from before? Does it run smooth? Does it run like it is actually lean? - it could possibly just be reading lean due to an air leak something.

You will need to tune the idle control system, instructions from the help file below.

Can you give us a pic of your jumpers as they are now. The AC running issue you are experiencing sounds very much like a backfeed through an aux output. But looking at the ecu schematic and the factory wiring diagram I cant see anyway for that to happen if the jumpers are in the right position. As a further test to help rule out some possibilities, could you also completely remove these 2 or 3 bottom jumpers (so you just have 6 bare pins sticking up), then turn ign on to ACC and tell me if the fan still runs.

Ignore your tuners instructions, the brown wire should go to sensor ground on the expansion harness. But as Steve Bull says, it would be much better to use the CAN bus rather than the analog signal. For this you connect AEMnet +/- to CANH/L on the ecu CAN port.