Adamw

Do the LEDs do the dance sequence when you plug it in? Its not just you, Im having trouble with that same file now. I will talk to the software guys on Monday.

They operate effectively just like a two wire solenoid, there is just a solidstate driver built-in. Some Subarus and Toyotas use the same type of valve. A single low side drive aux, 0%DC = closed, 100% DC = fully open.

So are you saying that solved your problem, or you now have the problem after changing the jumpers?

The latest G4X pclink v6.23. We haven’t tested on vista so can’t say for sure if it will work

From an ecu and lambda point of view there is absolutely no connection to or relationship with the cluster. Most likely whoever has wired it has connected it to a 12v supply that comes from a dash circuit and this is disconnected when you disconnect the dash

The G4X has 512 Megabytes. MB = Megabyte, Mb = Megabit. Do you remember where you saw it advertised with 512Mbit? I had a quick look around our website but couldnt see that.

I put a cheap android headunit in one of our test cars and it comes alive with realdash opening almost instantly. Only using the free version of realdash so the splash screen takes longer than the power up cycle. I assume they just go into some kind of standby mode. Realdash is quite capable and would be fine for a fulltime display (can even do navigation, music controls, laptiming, telemetry, etc) if you put the effort in to setting it up. It will be a much bigger learning curve than a commercially offered automotive dash and will need a significant time investment though.

Sorry I missed your last question. Did you try connecting one of the front ABS sensors? That would certainly be the easiest option if it works. You dont need to modify anything, you can just poke a back probe into the main connector at the ABS unit and connect it to a DI to see if it works. If no dash lights come on then go with it. GPS is not suitable for TC, too much lag and instability. If you wanted to make your own wheel speed pickup, an industrial sensor such as a GS100502 is often easy to mount, you may need to get a trigger wheel laser cut or sometimes you can just pick up of the back of the wheel studs or lugs on the hub etc.

The problem is I have seen the Z32 offset anywhere between -90 and +60.

Need more info of what trhe problem is. Note it is normal for the Evo trigger mode to clock a trigger error everytime the crankshaft stops rotating.

It looks like someone has been playing with the MAP limit. You have two MAP limit tables set up and both are set to all zeros.

Most likely the idle base position or cold start enrichment not tuned. Please attach a log of a cold start and warm up as well as a copy of your map.

Yes, I want a copy of that from your ecu as it will have all current live data saved in it as well as input statuses and fault codes etc.

Where did you get 512K from? Our current ecu's have 512MB. My road car has about the last 3 weeks of driving stored in it.

Sounds fishy. I suspect this is two separate issues, but some of your observations of behavior are a bit odd. The temp input voltage increasing/temp decreasing can only be an increase in resistance on the ground side of the sensor. With ignition on but engine off, if you shake/yank/wiggle all of the bits of related loom you can access do you see any variations in reported voltage/temp then? Does it have resistor spark plugs?

Have you got the jumpers in the 91-93 positions?

Attach a copy of your map.

Have a read of this and try to learn the shortcuts for the functions you commonly use, they will make your life easier. "B" is the key you are after.

You will need to swap the trigger 1 and trigger 2 wires as the "crank signal" is currently on trig 2. The other sensor that is currently connected to trig 1 is not giving to correct single tooth waveform but lets see a scope again after you have swapped the wires.

Assuming you have a wire in Xtreme? If someone is wiring the ecu then it wouldnt cost much to get them to do the CAN wiring as part of the wiring job. If you wanted ready made stuff then you would need one of the ECU cables shown down the left of the image, a CANEXT (possibly 2 of these depending on distances from each device ) and a CANTEE (splits the bus to two devices). Connection something like this:

The VR4 ecu is what I refer to as an old one - the adapter board hasnt been updated from its original G4 design which had less IO available.

Do it in volts as I said. You can temporarily set the analog input function to "voltage 0-5V" and the ecu will tell you the voltage, you do not need to measure it with a standalone tool. Fill the tank from empty in some regular volume increment and note the voltage at each volume.

I agree and I have been meaning to arrange that, keep forgetting. I will ask the admin now.

Yes, if the ecu that we are doing the mod to is one of our older ones with few spare anvolt inputs they will also add some flying leads for extra analogs.

Provided the level sensors are 2 wire, then wire them in series, you will then get the average of both sensors. For the setup, set the analog input as a GP input, probably cal 7/8/9/10 is the most suitable, Volts vs %. Empty tank, check the voltage on ANVolt, this is your 0% voltage to input into the cal table axis (my example below is 0.6volt for 0% full). Repeat for other increments such as 25%, 50% etc. You could just do 2 points calibration (empty and full) but it will unlikely be accurate in between.