Adamw

Set a single target - say 14.5V and add a small amount of proportional and integral gain say 0.1 on each. Hold RPM steady at say 2000RPM and battery voltage should move towards target. Once it gets to target note down the Aux 4 duty cycle - this is the value to put in your feed forward table for 2000RPM. You can do a similar test at other RPMs. Then you need to tune the PID so that it resonds as fast as possible without oscillation. Derivative will usually stay at zero - just P & I need tuning.

Right mouse click on your ign table >import/export>import from file.

This specific "open load" test that is causing the reported fault is performed everytime the aux output is off/open/high. So in your case this test will be performed 250 times per second - everytime the aux voltage is expected to go high. Im not sure how long it takes for the fault to be reported after the first test has failed however, the fault report is probably only in a slow loop.

39 def shouldnt show 12V and there is no way really it could unless every single ground wire was missing from the ecu (there are 6 other power ground wires and all ground pins are connected together) so I will have to assume you got that test wrong somehow. Is the connector pushed all the way home at the ends? Does pin 36 have 12V with ign on? Is pin 4 at ground with ign switch on?

Nothing to worry about here, the alternator must have a clamping diode in it which prevents aux 3 from reaching 12v when off so it will fail one of the self-tests that the aux does. It will not affect its operation.

I think I will need to see a log. Not sure why you are expecting cyclic to work when antilag is active, or if you just havent explained it well. Cyclic should only work when antilag is armed but is deactivated. Since you have DBW you wouldnt normally need cyclic idle.

You've got accel fuel dumping in all the time. It could just be set too sensitive or not enough deadband but your TPS looks more erratic that I would normally see so I suspect there is something wrong there.

You can see the 5V output voltage in the runtimes screen, ecu status tab to confirm that is ok. The pressure sensor output shouldnt go below 0.5V, so 0.14V would suggest a wiring issue. Since it is showing a voltage in the ecu that would suggest the ecu end or the wiring is ok, there is something wrong at the sensor end. Pinout is incorrect or it doesnt have 5V. In your screenshot above AN Temp3 is showing 2.10V, which would be roughly 55°C using the bosch NTC calibration. If only the APS is drifting but TPS, MAP etc is all still reading correctly then it cant be a 5V supply issue.

For your ignition table you can import the table below as a starting point. For the fuel table just delete the boost rows and tune it. 1UZ NA ign.lte

No, changing the pull-up resistance is not not going to help you. Most ECU's only have a 1.5-4.7K aux pull-up so you are already stronger than the typical ecu.The problem must be at the tacho end. With the set up I gave above you will have a 0-12V square wave pulse going out to the tacho. Effectively yo can think of the ignition output as a switch that is connected to ground on one side. When the switch is "on" the ignition output is connected to ground with very low resistance (effectively a dead short), so you have 0V on the tacho output wire. When the switch is "open" you have the pull-up resistor pulling the tacho wire up to 12V.

Two options, #1, you can connect the steering pot to one of the dash inputs and we can send that to the ecu to receive as a native steering position runtime. #2, you can wire CAN port 1 to CAN port 2 - the dash will still work as well as obd2. We then connect the steering pot to an ANVolt, set up as a 0-5V GP input, send out the raw voltage on say CAN1, and receive it back into CAN 2 as steering pos.

It depends how fussy the abs system is, you really need to give it a try. Some systems have differential inputs so having the ecu connected which uses a common ground will upset that.

I have only seen this type of error occur before when the main power supply is missing (pin A5 14V) - such as a bad connection or blown fuse. The ECU will still power up due to some backfeed through an aux output, but when any processor intensive activity like a firmware update is requested there is not enough current to keep it alive. I would suggest removing the ecu from the car and power it up on the bench so you can be sure of the correct power supply then try the firmware update like that. You only need 12V to pin A5 and ground to pin A34.

What ecu do you have? A plug-in or wire-in?

Check you are using the latest PDMLink 1.2.72. Your file and included layout appears to load up ok for me.

I would also unplug the lambda and confirm voltages at the DTM4 that it connects to. With your multimeter measuring between ground and one of the 4 DTM pins you should see the following voltages if wiring is good: Pin 1 = ~12V. Pin 2 = 0V. Pin 3 = ~1.0-2.0V. Pin 4 = ~3.0-4.0V.

No that should be ok. I've tested the extension cable with 2 CAN lambdas on the end.

No the internal ecu termination resistor is difficult to remove - but I have never see a lack of a resistor or extra resistors cause no coms so I wouldnt worry about that too much. Termination issues you would tend to see stuff or bit errors and more traffic due to resends if really bad but it would be rare to have no coms at all. So way more likely some other issue. The CANTEE has two DTM4 output plugs. Unplug the one that is going to the gauge since we know that one is working and plug the CAN lambda directly into that same plug.

Are the power wires adequate size? At least 20AWG, preferably 18 depending on length.

The GTR bottom board doesnt have Aux outputs 9 & 10 available on external pins and possibly doesnt have the internal power supply circuit routing power to the E-throttle H-bridge. So for the "E-throttle mod" they will add a couple of solder links to take care of the internal power supply and they will add some "flying leads" for Aux 9 & 10 outputs. On boards where there are few spare analog inputs that may add a few extra flying leads for extra analog inputs for the pedal etc.

As per section 1.6.7 of the manual the base timing is one of the things you need to calibrate before starting the engine. Because the nissan CAS is connected to the camshaft and mounted with slotted holes, the offset is highly variable from engine to engine. Most commonly it is around -80 to -90 but I have seen large exceptions to that. That would be assuming that the car our base map came from was dead stock. That was 10 years before my time so I couldnt confirm, but as I say 15-20ms would be the ballpark I would expect for a 500cc cyl with 615cc injector.

Unfortunately it isnt possible directly in the G4+. Most of the variables were designed with a specific range and resolution in mind so are coded with a bit width to suit. I suspect negative values in custom cal tables was probably overlooked and never considered at the time. Steering angle can be received via a CAN input as both negative and positive degrees. So we can possibly do a trick there. What do you currently have connected to the CAN ports?

Yeah all of that should be possible. Attach your ecu map and PDM config and I can set up a couple of examples to get you started.

I dont see anything wrong with the general ECU setup. Is the gauge getting power from the 4pin DTM or is it getting power from separate wires? If you unplug the gauge and plug the lambda into the gauge connection then go to >CAN setup>CAN Devices>find devices, does it find the lambda?

It doesnt look like you have set the base timing so that would be the first thing to do. Then adjust the master fuel until it runs the best, I would expect it to be more like 15ms for those injectors, but the value is not really important, just adjust it up or down until it runs best.