Adamw

Another option would be to return the 350Z ecu to Link and they can do what we call a "bottom board swap", effectively making it a GTR plug-in. Assuming your GTR still has the factory wiring that would save a lot of wiring work. Dont quote me on it but to give you a ball park idea to weigh up the options it used to be about NZD$300 for that swap service last I heard. You could also do the same yourself by pulling the ecu board out of the 350Z case and putting that on the old G4 GTR adapter board. The G4 bottom board has less IO available than the more recent versions though (an only watsed spark ign).

Other auxes you could repurpose if you want others would be the evap canister vent pin 117 which is aux 12 and the factory 02 sensor heaters on pin 2 & 24/aux 7 & 6.

Possibly not as good as 2 knock sensors but you will still get decent knock detection with a single sensor. I have always only ever hung a single extra sensor on RB's when im tuning them and I can hear all I need.

Yeah error 16,33&34 together usually indicate a power supply issue. It can be either a large voltage drop when the heater is pulling maximum power (ie the supply isnt capable of providing full current), or it can also be a noisy supply that upsets those error tests. By "noisy", that could be for example something like ignition coils connected to the same circuit. Ideally you want your relay supply directly from the battery as that acts like a big filter, but if that is not possible then the capacitor as per the alternate diagram in the quick start guide will usually be enough to solve these errors.

Early 99-00 Gen 1 is 8 evenly spaced teeth and single tooth on cam. I dont know the offset. Later Gen1 is 24-1 and single tooth on cam - offset about 255. Gen 2 is 24-2 and single tooth on cam. Offset is around 255 for the gen 2. I dont have any Link maps that I have tuned from memory. I can give you a big bore NA timing map from this MBE ecu, but it uses some weird 0-15 scale for TPS and probably not much use for a boosted engine either.

Most use the JDM setting. These switches just swap trig 1 and trig 2 inputs. If you have no RPM showing in the software when cranking then try the alternative setting.

The pull-up resistor, which is 3.6-4.0V depending on the sensor load. You can check this by unplugging the sensor and it will sit at the pull-up voltage. No, it needs to fall below 1.0V to be valid. Yours is only going as low as 1.5/2.0/2.5 in the picoscope and the link scope suggests the same since the processed edges disappear. There are 3 requirements before a spark or fuel will be commanded. Firstly the ecu needs to see valid trigger 1 edges, secondly, those edges need to be received in the expected pattern (36-2 in this case), thirdly those edges must continue to be received in the correct pattern until the unique "720 sync" event is received (cam pulse). Only then the ecu has enough information to determine crank angle and cycle phase to spark at the correct time. If say just 1 trig 1 edge doesnt meet the voltage thresholds at anytime then the pattern is lost so the ecu needs to start from scratch looking for the pattern and sync event. You can look at the parameter "trigger 1 state" in the scope log to see these steps confirmed. It will show "idle" until the first valid edge is received, it will then show "blank teeth" for the first few teeth until it gets a feel for how fast the crank is accelerating, it will then show "test gap" while it is looking for the gap, once its seen something it things looks like a gap it will say "verify gap", if the gap meets the requirements (ie 2 missing teeth), then it will say "counting". It will then count 34 teeth and change to "tooth before gap", then tooth after gap, then back to counting and repeat. If an incorrect pattern is received then the status will revert to idle or blank teeth and start from scratch. Crank position has been determined when the status first changes to "counting" and provided trigger 2 hasnt contradicted that position the spark will be commanded on the very next cylinder to reach TDC after that point. You will see dwell commanded in the log as further confirmation. I think I told you to change the sync tooth to 1 in one of the other threads so this cant happen. That is a difference of 360deg. ie the ecu had the crank position but cam/phase position was moving. This was due to your sync tooth originally being set to 14 but with the sync tooth occurring right above tooth 14. So depending on any slight cam movement due to temperature, drive backlash etc it could cause it to sync on the wrong crank rotation sometimes. It is not related to firmware.

That trigger scope shows no signal at all. Are you sure you only clicked the capture button while cranking? - Not before cranking?

You need to set the ID to 1000 and the transmit rate to 20Hz.

Note you have ign 3 & 4 spare on the main header as well as inj 5 or 6 are probably not being used (originally used for the narrowband O2 sensor heaters).

The Fury works out cheaper than an Xtreme + CAN lambda by a couple of hundred dollars in general. Wiring is simplified also. I look after a couple of sportscars with Hayabusa engines, one has a stock ecu with some tuning package (cant remember name), it does run ok after a lot of work but it was an absolute ballache to tune. It is an NA engine though, Im not sure how well the factory strategy will work with boost. The other car has a horrible "MBE" ecu in it which also isnt great but I had that tuned to a level I was happy with in about half the time of the OEM one. We had quite a bit of trouble getting the low gear torque reduction completely disabled in the factory ecu but pretty sure we got there in the end. The feature I miss most from the factory ecu is lack of logging - in motorsport this is where all your optimization comes from in general.

Relay pin 30 to an ignition switched 12V supply. Pin 85 to ground. Pin 86 to any spare aux, injector or ignition drive. Pin 87 is the 12V supply to the pump. Im 99% sure if you use an injector or ignition drive (instead of a normal aux output) for pin 86 then pin 30 could probably be connected direct to battery rather than an ignition switched source which may simplify things. Just I cant remember if I have actually done this with this specific relay to be sure.

Definitely worth using it since the suppllier provides that info. The data you need is already formatted ready to copy and paste straight into the ecu in the Link section of their library: https://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/4000074340-link-engine-management

Connect CAN H & L on the ECU to CAN2 H & L on the dash. A CANJST4 cable is the easiest way to connect at the ECU end. Set up instructions for both the ecu and dash are in the AEM dash help file under 3rd party support>Link G4+. If you have any more specific question I may be able to offer better advice.

In >analog inputs>Lambda 1, make sure the control is set to Link CAN. Then if you go to runtimes screen (F12), ecu status tab, have a look at the Lambda 1 status there will tell you what is happening. It will say disabled/diagnostics with the engine off if its happy, and after the engine has been running for a while it should change to calibrating/heating/operating.

You dont have stable trigger 1 signal though. Your trig two looks ok in all data you have given so far, but both the ECU trigger scope and your standalone oscilloscope show a trig 1 signal that is not meeting the required voltage thresholds. A hall sensor must rise above 1.5V and fall below 1.0V to be considered a valid edge. A hall sensor is a pretty simple device - all it effectively does is connects the signal wire to ground when metal is in front of it - so the signal wire should show near 0V everytime a tooth goes past the sensor. When there is no metal in front of the sensor then the signal wire should sit at the pull-up voltage - typically about 3.8V for the internal G4X one. So all the other weird 1.5/2.0/2.5 voltages you are measuring and we are seeing on the picoscope shouldnt be there. It should be either close to 0V or close to 4V, anything else means there is something wrong with the wiring or the sensor.

I dont see why not, but I suspect it would only be using mA's so not usually an issue just having it ign swithed - hence the label "ig".

What is the question?

We dont offer a plug-in ecu for the E46. I remember "Panic wire" used to do an adapter harness for those a few years ago, not sure if he still does but it would be worth asking. https://panicmade.com/

To give a little more info that may help explain - The Aim software only allows you to assign a max of 8 bit flags per "channel". So even though the Link ECU is sending out all flags as a single 16bit variable, at the aim end it has to be received as two 8 bit channels to allow all flags to be displayed.

What ecu do you have?

Would you not just use the stock fuel pump trigger (Aux 11)?

The update rate is to take care of the gas transport delay and the sensor response. So effectively how long it takes for the ecu to be able to detect the change in mixture after it has adjusted the fuel. i.e no point in making corrections 4 times a second if it takes 1 second for the change to reach the sensor. Gas flow, exhaust size and sensor location etc play a big part. To get an idea you can do a quick step test at various conditions. Turn off CLL. Log lambda and lambda target, change the lambda target by say 15%, then watch how long it takes for the measured lambda to change by a similar 15% - this is your combined transport delay and sensor response time. Idle will usually be about 1Hz (Actually often needs to be slower but that is the slowest we allow at present), most engines will be ok with a 10Hz update at WOT, in between those points is where you need to spend the time observing and optimizing. It is more technically correct to have the update rate table referencing something mass flow related - for example inj DC or "air per cyl estimated" since this is what effects exhaust flow and hence transport delay but I usually find the default RPM based table to work fine. You can customise the update rate table axes by setting the trim limits tables to 3D if you really want to. For the gain you want to it be as high as you can go without causing an oscillation or large over correction. If the update rate is too high this will also be observed as overshoot and or oscillation. An example set up from our WRX below just to give you an idea. This has the probe right at the turbine exit but the primaries are very long on these engines - probably 1M long.

Example below would give you boost table one with switch in pos 1, boost table 2 when switch is in pos 2 or 3, and boost table 3 when switch is in pos 4 or higher.

Moved to G4+ section as your ECU is not a G4X. Your map is password protected, please unlock it.