Adamw

Need a log again please. start the log first, then do the TP calibration, then stop and save log after that completes or fails.

E-throttle relay is set to Aux 8 in the map you attached. You will have to set this to inj 8 if that what is wired to th erelay.

Note you only want the lockout at 1000 temporarily to make the closed loop work while you adjust the base position table, it will not drive nice with the lockout that high. For the lambda can you set lambda 1 sensor control to Link CAN then check what Lambda 1 status shows.

I would suggest just setting it up using the user defined mode. See the page in the help file for instructions: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > User Defined VVT Mode

Nothing, I would say it is a mistake in Aim's CAN template, I loaded my own. From your description it sounds like theirs is set up as N=0 and probably R=-1, rather than 10& 11 that we use.

Aux 8 is off in that log so there is no power supply to the E-throttle driver. If you temporarily turn the E-throttle relay off and then move the throttle blade with your fingers, do the AN Volt 2 & 3 voltages move? Can you do another log but with the E-throttle in set up mode.

Most likely just the base position table needs tuning so you are currently sitting above the RPM lockout. Go into the idle settings and set the "RPM lockout above target" temporarily to say 1000RPM, then closed loop should kick in and bring idle down to target. When it is idle at target take a look what your idle position is and enter that into the relevant cell in the base position table. Will need to see a log and your tune.

Yep I agree, this is not an ignition problem, you have trigger errors so the ecu will not spark when it has lost crank position. Although since it has got worse since you increased ign energy the trigger issue is probably due to noise from the ign system. What engine is it, what does it have for a trigger? Can you attach a copy of your tune and see if you can get a trigger scope or two at high boost.

It appears your engine has a Evo 7+ cam trigger wheel fitted, it does not match the evo 1-6 expected pattern. So, change your trigger mode to Evo 7-9, after that check trig 1 & 2 edge are still both set to all, do a store and give it another try. Set the master fuel to about 18ms if stock injectors, should be close enough to start.

I would say more likely coincidence. If there is excessive emi you will have USB connection issues and trigger issues before you would see any effect on a DI.

Does the APS and TPS calibration successfully complete? Attach a copy of your tune and a short log of some pedal presses.

Scope looks ok. Note since you have no cam sensor you should use multipoint group mode, semi-sequential is only possible with a trigger capable of 720 sync.

Give this a try. E36 V8 draft - with lap time 03.zconfig

Yeah Im pretty sure you will need a tacho booster on those. You connect a spare aux output or ignition drive (some on your expansion connectors) to the tacho boost input pin, connect the tacho booster output to the tacho signal wire that used to go to the distributor. I have seen many users use the 12V that is at the distributor for powering the new coils.

No those files are not what I need. You can export your config file on the config page, example below. It should be a single file with a .zconfig file extension.

Yes, that is the correct mode for the pattern in your scope.

Can you attach a copy of your dash config.

Spark edge needs to be set to rising for MSD. Also, still waiting for this:

You could do this in G4X: Turn off Idle ign control. Set up a GP output to activate under idle conditions, example below will probably be all it needs. Use that GP output to activate the dual ign table. Put wild numbers in there side by side (see 60 & 120deg rows). In this dual ign table I have it set up so it only gets lumpy after warm up - but you could also for example instead have a switch status on the Y axis so you can turn the lumpy idle on and off with a switch.

offset would be about -50 for that picture. Sync mode none, tooth count 36, missing teeth 1, sync tooth doesnt matter since sync is set to none. The DIS-4 absolutely needs rising spark edge in the link software. It would run with falling edge but you would have extreme timing drift in the advance direction as RPM increases. Note the GT101 often doesnt work well with missing teeth type wheels so that may have been your problem all along. They have logic built into them to correct for wheel run out and tooth inaccuracies - so when they see a missing tooth they can stretch edges out etc. But still give it a try, the ecu tell you if it is not happy. That is assuming you actually have a GT101 - they have been obsolete for several years now, many vendors sell the ZF or litlefuse equivalent as a "GT101", but both of these are ok with missing tooth wheels.

I wouldnt bother with any more than about 24T at that diameter. With more teeth than that the wheel design is going to get more critical. And with cam drive I dont think the extra resolution of a higher tooth count than that is going to give any advantage either. Since you have an atom with a V8 and a firing order that doesnt really support semi-sequential injection, you dont need a "720 sync event" so I would go with your suggestion of 24 teeth with 2 opposed missing teeth making it into a pseudo 12-1 crank wheel pattern. When you have just a single missing tooth in a distributor the start up can seem longer than expected at times - especially if you stall it on the start line or something...

I think they are part of the flywheel and not visible in most of these rover engines. We would be able to confirm what you have from a trigger scope though.

You are not going to be able to get an acceptable flex tune by fumbling around adjusting random stuff blindly. It is a reasonably complicated process that needs to be done with a specific routine to end up with a decent tune. All input data must be correct - inj flow rate, deadtimes, fuel press, densities, stoich ratios etc. Then you need to drain the tank, fill with the first unblended fuel (ie pure gasoline or close to it), tune on that fuel, when that fuel is all tuned and working well then drain tank, fill with the 2nd pure fuel (ie ethanol), check fuel tune again (should be close if injector and fuel data is good), when that fuel is good then check again with some variable fuel blends between these 2 extremes. It might be worth your while to invest in some courses at HP Academy or Evan performance.

Yes, it would be basically the same as my first example above.

The firmware engineer suspects the log file might be getting messed up during download. As a quick test, can you try downloading a small ecu log say 3 times in a row, save them with different names and attach all 3 copies here. If we see differences in the logs then that will confirm the download theory.