Adamw

For wiring diagrams, the BMW WDS must be the most widely pirated automotive documentation systems known to man, you should have no trouble finding factory diagrams. https://bmwteka.com/ is one example. For the dash board you can use the mini R53 CAN mode and most of the basics will work. If you search "E46" on the forum here you will probably find some of my old maps with custom CAN set up for more complete functionality but you will need a good understanding of Link to make use of that. ABS is a bit hit and miss, there are 2 different ABS systems used in the E46, I know one works with the mini stream and one doesnt, cant remember which. A/C request from memory is a bit odd, a duty cycle based signal I think. G4X should have all the tools you need be able to interpret it, but you will need to reverse engineer how it works on a car with a stock ecu first.

The Evo doenst have individual wheelspeeds connected to the ECU. You generally also only have 2 spare DI's on the Evo9 ecu so you may need to lose some other functionality to bring 4 wheel speeds in. Before you do that though, I would try just temporarily connecting just 1 wheel speed sensor to confirm the ABS and AYC/ACD is still happy. Many ABS systems have complex fault detection with the ground isolated from the rest of the electronics so wont tolerate being connected to a device which references a common engine/chassis/sensor ground.

Receive into the ECU as a CAN DI, the speed limit function doesnt allow a CAN DI to be assigned directly so use virtual aux to trigger it like below.

Did you fix this yet?

For a synchro type gearbox I would do the blip using a 2nd E-throttle target table. Use a GP output to enable the 2nd target with whatever conditions you want to trigger a blip - I normally just use clutch and brake pedal together as the trigger. Using the E-throttle target rather than the gear shift function blip means you can vary the blip amount based on speed & RPM or similar. You may need to add a timer to the conditions depending how consistent your shifts are.

Yes, set up instructions are in the help file.

Your fuel pressure, injector flow rate and dead times need to be measured, not guessed or assumed. As confused says, if you dont have this info then you are best to use traditional fuel equation.

That scope looks all good too. Possibly there is some noise issue interfering at higher loads or something. Does boost level have any influence on the trigger error? Can you give a bit more detail about the car, does it have resistor spark plugs?

There doesnt appear to be a signal at all. Both Trigger 1 & 2 signals are sitting at 0.9V which would suggest a pinout issue I think. Usually with a hall sensor it would be either close to 0V or close to 4V, never at some random in between voltage like this.

Can you give us a pic of the oscilloscope capture? Mostly interested in what voltage it is reaching.

The waveform and edge pattern looks pretty good in that scope. I assume that was done at idle, can you do us another scope up at around 5000Rpm.

can you attach a copy of your tune.

In that log it doesnt look like it dies when you hit the throttle, it dies on return to idle after a blip. That looks like the idle valve or throttle stop is not open enough. You have an idle target of 11-1300 and it is idling at 550-600rpm.

I think you just need more accel enrichment. Can you try something like below.

There is, but for that to work the tacho needs to be connected to the ecu.

I would probably go for a StormX, this would be the lowest cost ecu to be able to do sequential injection and direct spark on a 6cyl.

What trigger setting? The trigger was working fine in your last map and log.

It takes the original dealer about 20secs to generate the unlock. If you can’t get in touch with the dealer then you will need to contact tech support with some ID and proof of purchase, then they need to get the unlock approved so that can take longer.

Can you share your tune as well.

Im not sure how to make it any clearer - It is pointless trying missing tooth mode, you are just wasting time. Getting a log and a trigger scope when the issue is happening is going to give you something that is much more useful for diagnosis.

The idle control mostly looks like it is doing the right things now. I suspect your stall issue is possibly fuel related. Your normal warm idle injector PW is about 0.75-0.9ms in areas of the log where it is idling well. In all the places the engine stalled the PW dropped down under 0.5ms just on entry to idle - in a couple of places as low as 0.3ms. I suspect some of your injectors may not even open down at that sort of PW. In some cases that very short PW was due to reaching very high vacuum in overrun, in others it was the CLL pulling fuel out the whole way down towards idle. Try the changes in orange below to see if that improves the stalling problem. The rev hang is due to excessive offset and base position. For normal warm idle your TP sits at about 1.7%. In the places with the rev hangs the throttle is sitting at 3.6%. It looks like the base position for 80°C and above needs to come down to about 1.8%, possibly some of the offsets need to come down a bit too. But, lets not change to much at once, try the changes for the stalling issue first before messing with the hang.

No the settings look ok. What confuses me is your comment above that says with Aux6 in test mode, with active state set to low the pump stops (which is correct behavior). The aux would be outputting a ground with this test setting. The "Three speed PWM module" mode with active state high would also be outputting a ground when the engine is not running - so why a different result... Can you do that test again.

On all K series alternators that I have seen, no ecu control is needed.

Yeah, unfortunately that is a common problem with the old AEM controllers. 2 Problems: Firstly, the analog output is not very repeatable or accurate. Secondly, there is no seperate analog ground wire, so the ecu will be referencing a different ground than the sensor controller. You will also find when electrical loads such as cooling fans or head lights turn on the lambda will change. The best you can do is run the black wire to the engine block and adjust the calibration table to acheive the best match between gauge and ECU. What does your calibration table look like now?