Adamw

Ign 1 is always pin 1 on that ecu regardles of jumper position, so it should just work. Do you have an LED test light so you can check for a flash at the at the ecu header with the coil unplugged? Preferably on the pins on the back of the header inside the ecu case. Double check the connector is pushed all the way home at the ends also, it is quite common for the connector to bend out at the ends on the Nissan ecu's - although its usually Inj 1 or the power supply that doesnt work when that happens, its still something to confirm.

That is absolute pressure. Assuming you are near sea level, 36.7 - 14.5 = 22.5psi gauge pressure.

When the DI pull-up is disabled there is no path from the DI pin back to 12V internally. The DI's have a weak pull-down permanently connected so with the pull-up off the "voltage" isn't coming from the DI. Can you draw a schematic of how the idle valve etc is connected.

It should really be up to Haltech to correct the enumerations that the dash is using. However, you could use the math block below to generate the -1=R, 0=N, 1=1 etc, then swap your transmit stream to a user stream, load the configurable dash stream and swap the gear parameter with math block 1. There is probably a less cumbersome equation to do the same thing but this is what I came up with and it works:

Your scope looks normal. It only has 8 bit resolution spread over something like 40 or 50V range and no filtering in hall effect mode so when the signal is not changing and the time plot auto-scales the y axis they always look "noisy". Even if there was extreme noise it is not going to stop a signal from reaching the ecu.

They look close enough to me?

It is a very simple concept - effectively a switch that shorts a wire to ground, it shouldn't be difficult to diagnose. If you have 0V at the sensor signal pin then you should have 0V at the ecu trigger pin and you should see 0V on the trigger scope. Go back and see which one of those isn't true.

In one of the earlier tests I got you to do, shorting the ground pin to the signal pin in the sensor plug, you said the triggerscope showed 0V when you done that. Can you do this test again because that is exactly what the sensor does - shorts signal to ground.

You dont need to assign anything, If you have the CAN 2 mode set to anything other than OFF in the CAN setup screen then DI9/10 are disabled and the B27/28 pins are CAN2.

This wiring is fine. I hope you mean 0.988 kiloohms? Its meant to be, this is what the pull-up is for. The sensor should short it to ground when there is iron in front of it. So when you are measuring 0V at the sensor connector, if you do a scope capture does it also show 0V? It is actually fine, the ecu only needs to see more than 2V to see a signal. So 5V or 12V pull-up is perfectly fine, there is no relationship with the power supply to the sensor, this is just to power the electronics inside it.

No. Any ground is fine.

You can attach both files here.

Can you snip or disconnect your pull-up easily? Just in case you have something much different than it should be? Just enable the ecu one.

If you pull the cover off the ecu, are the blue LED's on?

You could try setting it to Mini R50-53 mode assuming they have the same EPAS unit. Otherwise you will need a working OEM car to reverse-engineer the messages.

Set aux 8 to fuel pump. In the fuel pump control menu set speed control mode to off. There is a prime setting in there. Around 3 seconds is typical.

Yeah you are not going to be able to get around that. 10Hz is the lowest frequency the aux outputs can produce, it sounds like that is about 20Kmh on your speedo, so you are never going to get any speed between 0 & 20kmh.

Thats less than 2% so would be within tolerance. Are you measuring between the pins I suggested?

If you dont have RPM then not much is going to work. You dont have a fuel pump assigned and you have 2 idle valves assigned. I would turn off antilag and launch control for now until it is tuned, and I would either turn off or reconsider the oil pressure safety on GP Limit 1, it is going to give you a 100% fuel cut until your oil press is above 50kpa at present. So sometimes you wont get any cranking enrichment etc if you dont crank within the 5sec startup timer. If you click on the GP limit table and hit F1, it will open the correct page in the help file, scroll down a bit and there is an example oil press safety set up in there.

I agree with KO that it looks like it needs at least another 0.5% in the top row of your e-throttle target table. I would make the idle ign a bit more aggressive too, something like below. But there are a couple of odd stalls in that log which make me think there may be something else going on sometimes, for example at time 16:21 it has been idling with the car stationary for some time, with throttle at about 4% and ign timing at about 4deg, then RPM suddenly starts to drop, ign timing ramps up to 13deg and the throttle opens to 16%, but it still stalls. Is it maybe not enough accel enrichment or similar? You could possibly do with just a tiny bit more integral gain on the e-throttle settings too, maybe try 0.07, you can see a little long-term position error in some places where TP is sitting at about 0.5% lower than target. DBW with linkages is sometimes hard to eliminate small error like that due to a little bit of backlash in the linkages. Only the primary port butterfly is working at idle right?

The ECU voltage measurement is accurate within 3%. The power supply is pin 49 or 59 and 116, so put your voltmeter across those pins and it should match what ecu shows.

Someone has been messing with your trigger settings. They are set to reluctor which they are not. Settings from our base map below. Also, not related, but your MAP sensor calibration is wrong.

You are probably using about 10% of the bus capacity. However, user streams 1 -4 with the exception of one APS signal are sending the same channels that are already being sent in the MSX stream So you could get rid of 4 streams if you wanted to. I have added the keypad button and differential fuel press to the dash, clutch temp was already on the bus so ecu doesnt need to transmit that. You can use the test calculator to view the logging status runtime enumerations. So you would assign say a green LED to status 1, for logging, and a red to status 2 and 3 for not logging. LINK_DO1023_@20230409_082155_007199.xc1 DO1023 V2.zconfig edit1 V2.pclx

Do the throttles actually look closed when in the idle position? It is pretty normal to have very little idle vacuum with ITB's, it should be better than it is, but I would say it is more likely just an adjustment and/or sync issue, it would have to be a pretty massive leak to reach 3000RPM with the throttle closed.

Your coolant temp sensor is at 5V so that means it is open circuit - the ecu is not seeing any resistance. So either a wire is broken/bad connection somewhere or the sensor is unplugged or has failed. Start by checking the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter, it should be 2000-4000ohms at room temp. If that looks ok, beep out the wiring back to the ecu.