Adamw

The trigger inputs can take reluctor or hall signals with just a software setting change. I would always have at least the signal shielded even with hall sensors. It would be acceptable to just run a new cable from the distributor to the new crank sensor as proposed, you can either pass the shield through a pin in the connector, or ground the shield for the new wire at the crank sensor end instead. However, if it were me, since you are also going to need to run a new power supply and ground to the crank sensor I would run a new 3 core all the way back to the ecu. Your most critical engine sensor wiring is then 25years younger and has less connections (failure points) along its path. It would probably look tidier too.

This means the ecu is comanding full power to the motor but has seen no change in voltage on the TPS sensors. Attach a copy of your tune and a log of a tp cal attempt.

If your temp sensor is reading correct when the press sensor is unplugged, then the most likely logic I can fit to your described problem would be if the green and yellow were swapped at the dtm - i.e green wire is connected to the AN Temp instead of gnd, and the yellow is connected to gnd instead of the AN Temp?

Yes that would be fine. You can put your DI onto a GP limit table or on the 3D RPM limit table if you want to reduce rpm or kill the engine when wmi fails.

If the relay is clicking when the ignition is off then that means you have constant 12V on one of the relay coils, it needs to be an ignition switched source if connected to an aux. I dont think the ignition outputs can back feed so Im suspicious it may not be your new pump relay that is the problem. Unplug all the relays and find out which on has 12V on pin 86 with ign sw off. Im not sure why it would not turn off after priming but fix the live feed first then we can diagnose that if still present.

Probably something you need to ask Vac. Im pretty sure the stock trigger wheel is on the back of the sprocket.

Pull the aux 9 and aux 10 wires out of the ecu plug. Measure the resistance between those 2 wires, I would expect less than 20ohm if the motor is connected correctly.

The GT101 likes quite big teeth - about say 5mm long by 5mm high, so that may dictate how many teeth you can fit depending on the diameter you have to play with. Somewhere around 20T generally works well.

I cant say I have noticed it. What do you have for logging start and stop conditions?

Can you try dropping the dwell a little more, those ignitors dont like working too hard and cut sparks as some sort of current limitation - usually right around the RPM you are talking. But I see that more commonly when someone is pushing like 2.4ms dwell, yours isn't too far off what I would normally suggest. Try it down around 1.7ms at 14V. Otherwise it really just sounds like a classic ignition energy issue. You could try reducing the plug gap if not already very tight. In one of your logs the injector duty is already hitting 85% at ~10psi 5200RPM so be aware it hasn't got too much left in it.

Yep, if you have a FP sensor and you are using the "FP Sensor" fuel system type then it will be taken care of automatically. And yes, connecting the FPR vac reference would be a good option too.

A good crank trigger set-up gives 2 main advantages over a distributor or cam-driven trigger. Spark scatter - a distributor or cam trigger is generally connected to the crankshaft via several mechancal interfaces with varying levels of backlash and flexibility. On engines with 4cyl or less especially, valve train resonance can be quite extreme, when you pass through these bands of resonance the camshaft starts bouncing backwards and forwards due to flexibility in the drive system and the cam itself (belt/chain etc) and if there is any backlash in the trigger drive (distributor gears, spline drive or driving dog etc) this resonance is further exaggerated in the trigger signal. When you have significant scatter it means some spark events will be more retarded than desired and some more advanced than desired so you not only lose power from the retarded sparks, but because you have some sparks that are occurring too early you will reach the knock threshold earlier so you have to run less timing all over as well. Whereas if the trigger is rigidly attached to the crankshaft there is no valve train resonance influence and no backlash influence, all spark events can be much closer to the ideal angle. Update angle - the angle between teeth affects how far ahead the ecu has to predict crankshaft position, if the crank speed changes between those tooth updates then the prediction is wrong. The more often you get those updates and the smaller the angle between them, the less prediction error you have. Depending how bad the trigger design is, both of these can have a big effect. Spark scatter related especially I have seen some quite unbelievable gains. The best example I can remember where the only change was the trigger is an RB26 engine I used to work on many years ago, it had an old M8 motec on it. With the stock 360opto trigger I always knew it had significant spark scatter, but I never considered that an issue and it made around 760HP at the hubs which was more than most in those days. That was pushing things pretty hard though, I dont think there would have been another 5HP in it if I tried. Anyhow, the spline drive in the end of the cam came loose one day on the dyno which was going to be a big job to fix so we decided to put a crank trigger on it instead. We made a 60-2 trigger wheel as the Motec was a special "high speed trigger" version (to handle the 360 opto) and 60 teeth was recommended as ideal. Not really expecting any difference but we noticed as soon as we started it that it just seemed to run smoother, with a timing light on it the spark scatter was now almost indistinguishable. We played around with it a bit and noticed on the first power run it made more power than it ever had before and the boost had dropped a couple of psi? I could only link that to the reduction of spark scatter so I tried adding a bit more timing - it seemed happy - so I added a bit more - still seemed happy - then a bit more boost... From memory it took about an extra 5deg advance over what it would start to knock at before. It ended up at 880HP at the same boost with the only hardware change being the trigger. Quite a worthwhile upgrade . More recently I fitted an atom to a carburetted classic race car as an ignition-only upgrade. It had OEM computer control ign already but it had a heap of spark scatter and not a great timing curve - I could change the timing by rotating the distributor but it had too much advance down low and not enough up top. I removed the distributor, added a crank trigger and wasted spark coils. I cant remember the exact numbers but again it was way more than I ever expected, it went from something like 130 to 145HP. In this case I couldn't say it was only due to the stability improvement though, it got a more optimised advance curve and possibly a better spark or longer spark duration at the same time. A good example of the update angle effect is to put a timing light on a Mitsi Evo, these have a crank trigger so no resonance effect but only 2 teeth on the crank. If you lock the timing and stab the throttle you can see a very large drift in timing during the transient, 5-10deg at a guess. There is a common 12T trigger wheel upgrade, and if you fit one of these there is still a little visible drift but it is greatly reduced, maybe 2deg. I find with anything more than about 24T on the crank it is pretty difficult to distinguish any transient drift, some of it is probably timing light delay too.

I doubt it has a mix of US and metric units, more likely the vacuum portion is inHg. So 15inHg on your boost gauge would be equivalent to about -7.3psi MGP in the ecu software.

Set the minimum PW to 0 will allow it to go at least a little leaner without adjusting anything else - assuming the deadtimes are set longer than they should be. Or lower fuel pressure and just apply an overall multiplier to the fuel table. If you adjust the deadtimes you will generally have to retouch the whole fuel table, especially all the low-load areas.

You can see in your log when the ecu sends maximum -ve DC to the motor there is no change at all in the aux 9/10 supply voltage trace. The voltage would drop as DC/current is increased if there was an electrical load connected to aux9/10 pins. It appears you have an open circuit so I would be suspicious you have the pinout wrong. Is your throttle wired like below?

It has a magnet inside the sensor, your target just needs to be ferromagnetic metal - soft low carbon steel is best if you are making a trigger wheel, but most steel items such as bolts will work fine too.

You dont need the user streams set up for the common channels to work. I dont see anything wrong in your ECU setup. Your ecu firmware is very old so it would be a good idea to update that to the current version just in case there was something wrong in that version, but I dont remember any issues with the generic dash 2 stream though. Are you using the Gen 2 TRI file?

Not too far away, we still have a fair bit of testing to finish. Is there something specific you are waiting for? I can possibly get you a beta version if it is important.

Below is what I have spotted without much to work from. If these dont solve your problem I will need a copy of the G3 map or at least a log of a cranking attempt. AN Temp 1 & 2 need the fault settings set appropriately, 0.05 for low and 4.95 for high is normal. Spark edge needs to be set to falling. Change trigger settings in blue. Trigger 2 sync mode needs to be cam pulse 1X, I would drop the filters to level 2 and the offset at exactly 0 is a bit suspicious, if that's what the G3 used then it should get you started but I would check that with a timing light to make sure it is right once running.

Oh, its been increased to 30chars in the next release, forgot I was using that.

Attach a copy of your tune.

Yes, just control that relay with a GP output that is always true. MAP > 0kpa is what I typically use.

Can you attach a copy of the tune and a short PC log. What ECU do you have?

There is a basic guide starting on the help file page: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Auxiliary Outputs > GDI Pump Control > GDI Pump Control Tuning. The important info you need to gather before starting: Injector P&H current/voltage/times, typically you determine this from scoping the same engine running on an OEM ecu. Injector flow rate. GDI pump solenoid P&H current/voltage/times, typically you determine this from scoping the same engine running on an OEM ecu. GDI pump cam lobe profile and lobe centerline. This needs to be mechanically degreed out - guide in the help file. GDI pump piston diameter must be known. Sometimes it is measurable from underneath, sometimes you need to cut an old pump open to measure. if it is a Bosch HDP5 pump or Denso copy it can usually be assumed to be 9mm. Target rail pressure and injector timing from an OEM ecu is good to have as a starting point. You can usually log this data via OBD2 port. DI injector deadtime can be crudely approximated by varying rail pressure once you have achieved satisfactory rail pressure control. GDI pump deadtime is important for good control but difficult to determine for the average technician. You will likely just have to have a guess (1.5ms) and accept there will be some error baked into other parts of the calibration. It is generally done by clamping a knock sensor onto the pump and scoping the time it takes for the valve impact to occur after energising the solenoid and needs to be tested over a range of voltages.

With too much gain the throttle will move faster than the engine responds to the change in air flow so you end up with over-correction which causes an oscillation. The antistall gain kicks in if the RPM drops 150rpm below the idle target. Your idle gains are quite high compared to what is typical for E-throttle, although I suspect your odd setup with a linkage and small butterfly in the mix probably means the usual rules dont apply. Typical proportional gain is 1-2 and about 2-3 for the anti-stall. I have never really noticed the anti-stall to have a lot of affect.