Adamw

Ok, so first just a quick bit of info about the trigger scope in this ecu so you know what to expect. Your Monsoon is an early one that didnt have the full analog triggerscope hardware (V2.4), so the parameters "Trigger Scope 1/2" which would usually show the raw voltage on the trigger pin in later ecu's arent connected to anything in your ecu so we need to ignore these. What we have to work with are the parameters "Trig1/2 Signal" - these are a representation of the signal that is reaching the main micro controller after they have been passed through the trigger conditioning circuit. So if you dont see a "Trig2 Signal", it doesnt necessarily mean there is no signal - it could mean the signal just didnt make it through the conditioning circuit. For example if the trigger 2 voltage didnt meet the trig 2 arming threshold then the conditioning circuit wouldnt allow it through so you would see no "trig 2 signal" in your scope capture. Many ford cam sensors output very low voltage when cranking so that would be my first thought, try dropping your trig 2 arming threshold to match the example below and see if we get a signal then. The second problem I see is your trigger 1 appears to be incorrect polarity as there is a falling edge right in the middle of the "missing tooth" gap. So swap the +/- wires at the crank sensor plug.

The amount of retard you get is based on 3 factors. "Knock level detected", "Ignition Retard Gain" & "Knock Trim Gain Table" - these are all multiplied together. "Knock Level Detected" is Knock level - Knock Threshold. So in your first example on cyl 1 you have a knock level detected of 0.62 (1.62-1.00), your Ign retard gain is 1.00 and knock trim gain table is 1. So you would get 0.62 x 1.0 x 1.0 = 0.6deg instantaneous retard. In the second example on cyl 3 you have a knock level detected of 0.18 x 1 x 1, = 0.18deg (truncated to 0.1deg). With normalised mode a knock event will be a significant spike above the threshold so your retard would be more significant than your examples. Looking through my maps with normalised mode I usually have a retard gain around 2.0-2.5 and my trim gain table is just 1.0 right across. Below is an example pull from our subaru where I have put an extra 5 deg advance in a single cell in the ign table at 3500rpm to purposely make it knock (you can see where Ign angle bumps up as we pass through), Cyl 4 knocks, the ecu instantly pulls 4 deg out of cyl 4 and you see after that the cyl 4 noise level drops back below the others. Threshold was 2.8, knock level was 4.64, gain was 2.5 (I have the retard limit set at 4 in this car).

You will need load = MAP if you intend to ever have an idle valve. MSEL sell a nice Bosch 1Bar MAP.

Yes I think that is the best plan. Email [email protected] with some detail of your location and a note that you suspect an ignition drive is damaged and you would like it tested. The will give you a form to fill out and some instructions on the closest warehouse to send it to.

Trigger 1 is showing noting. Trigger 2 is showing a constant 1.4V which suggests a wiring issue. It should be either 0V or 4V, nothing in between. The ECU doesnt supply power to the sensors and there is nothing that would make the scope show no signal if there were a signal. The Ign sw setting is fine as is.

In modelled mode IAT trim should be off and warm up enrichment zeroed out. Air density is calculated using the charge temp approximation and fuel charge cooling coefficient.

No, G4+ Xtreme has built-in E-throttle.

Why did you change the trigger? It is going to be very difficult to make VVT work with a different crank pattern. The stock VQ35HR trigger works perfectly fine. 6 teeth on a 60tooth wheel would be 36degs, not 60. Your offset would be 36 or -324.

Assuming DI 1 pull-up is off and active state is set to high you should definately see a change in status when connecting 12V to pin 41.

That last picture still doesnt look right. But I dont think it is a driver problem as how it drops to only 4V would be pretty impossible for a transistor to achieve - they will be either ground or open so we should see either the pull-up voltage or ground - we shouldnt see some odd voltage in between. Are you using standard oscilloscope probes? Do your probes maybe have a 1X/10X switch on the side?

It is saved as a .llgx file so just view it like any other log. >logging>open log file. Typically you would view it as a time plot - so create a new page, add a time plot, then add the trigger scope parameters to it. Its only the Vac cam trigger disc that has a magnet - that why I suspect the cam sensor is a hall (they should know as you would have to wire power to it if it is a hall). The Vac crank disc is a fairly standard issue steel trigger disc, although I dont like their design much for a reluctor but it should work provided the sensor is somewhere close to the wheel and lined up.

You will need a pull-up to see the proper signal. Usually there is an ignition coil connected which acts as the pull-up.

Try another to confirm.

If you wind the engine over by hand to TDC#1 and give us a photo of where the single tooth is pointing inside the distributor will will be able to have a rough guess. I have never seen a 16T one. What is the engine code?

It sounds like the ignition drives are possibly fried. Are you just testing 1 drive or are they all the same?

Sorry I missed your original post. Can you do another trigger scope now it is running, the reason being in the scope you attached above the shape of the waveform looks very much like the crank sensor is wired back to front. It hasnt captured a full crank revolution though so I cant say for sure - but it is definitely suspect enough that it is worth another scope.

The front cam sensor should be connected to trigger 2 - pin B8. One of the rear cam sensors can be connected to DI2 - pin B9. The other rear cam sensor can be connected to DI4 - pin A1.

If you have a G4X I would use the knock settings from our V11 base map. This uses normalised mode which adapts from engine to engine well and works very well in our test car (EJ207). Leave that until after you have tuned it though, otherwise it will just work against you. If you are doing steady state tuning on the dyno yes. If road tuning where you cant hold it nicely centered in each cell then you are probably better using the mixture map or quick tune function from logs.

275 or -85 seems to be a common theme for BMW so you could give that a try. I dont have any info specific to the M60.

They are very similar so wont make a lot of difference but it would be best to have the correct calibration. About 5psi difference at full scale.

Sounds possibly like the valve is working in the wrong direction. In the idle control setup, try changing the Aux 1 active state to high, this will reverse the logic. If that doesnt help then please do a short PC log.

Still nothing at all on either trig 1 or 2 in that scope. So are you 100% sure this was captured when engine was cranking? Because usually even if there were no trigger signals or the sensors were completely disconnected even, you would still usually see a bit of wave caused by the high starter motor current offsetting the ground, but this scope shows dead flat lines very much like it is a capture of a stationary engine.

Is it running single coil with distributor or COP?

What ecu do you have? There is a lot of unusual IO assigned. You have trigger 2 set to LH Inlet cam, but a EJ207 should have trigger 2 connected to the cam sensor that is on the front cam sproket and the AVCS position sensor is a separate sensor at the back of the head, this AVCS sensor should be connected to a Digital input and assigned to LH Inlet. You have no Digital input assigned to RH Inlet Cam position. You have no Aux output assigned to RH Inlet Cam solenoid. Once you have the correct sensor and solenoids connected and set up in the ecu, then you need to do a cam angle test on each cam to determine the correct offset. This procedure is explained in the help file page: G4 ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control >Cam Angle Test. use a test pulse count of 4 for this test.

Ok yeah that just looks like a filtering issue. For the speed, in the ecu there is a filtering option on the DI, you could give this a try to see if it helps smooth the speed out on the dash. For the others there is not much you can do, there is an RPM filtering option in the ecu but I would not use that as it would affect the tune, typically this is only used for special cases such as single cyl engines. You could try reducing the transmit rate on the CAN settings in the ECU to see if that helps or not.