Adamw

Its not actually CAN in these cars but a Toyota specific protocol known as BEAN. I believe in the IS300 everything except the MPG gauge and the traction control will function correctly. Must be a manual trans.

Is your ECU serial number >10000? Only G4's after S/N 1000 had highspeed CAN bus, earlier ones will need a modification. Your ADU configuration is wrong also, to set up the CAN in the ADU go to >project tree>add>import CANX, choose Link G4 generic dash, select all, then ok.

Neither of those files have attached correctly. You can delete and reload or use a file sharing service like google drive or similar.

Nothing to worry about, the aux outputs constantly do several tests for faults - short to ground, open load, short to vbat etc. I would guess the pull-up in the gauge circuit is lower than battery voltage so the short to ground test fails.

What do you have for coils/ignitors?

It looks like you have a fairly poor connection so the logging rate is pretty slack in a lot of areas, the detail around the failures is not good enough to see if the chicken or the egg came first. The TP tracking error occurs because the TP sub voltage drops below your AN Volt 2 error low value which puts AN Volt 2 in volt and sets the TP sub to 0%. What I cant tell from the log is whether it is just the error low setting that is too close and a small amount of undershoot occasionally crosses the error low - or if there is a problem with the wire or sensor that causes the voltage to drop out sometimes. So start by adjusting the error low on both AN Volt 1 & 2 to 0.05V, and add the list of channels below to your ecu logging set so we get some better detail if it happens again. AN Volt 1 & 2 raw voltages 100Hz. E-throttle motor DC, E-throttle target, TPS main & sub, APS main, TP/Target error accumulator, TP tracking error accumulator, Aux9/10 supply, Ign 8 status, Fault code status. 50Hz.

For factory low impedance injectors you need to keep the ballast resistor in place, if the injectors have been replaced with high impedance then you need to remove/bypass the ballast. I would expect your "e-throttle loom" would plug into the expansion socket that has Aux9/10 on it. For the ethanol sensor you will use the other one which has 3 DI's on it. The sensor requires 3 wires, Gnd, a DI and Ign switched +12V. The expansion loom has the ground and DI so they can run straight to the sensor, the 12V supply you will need to find yourself. It only uses very low power so you dont necessarily need a dedicated fuse etc, often you can just tap into whatever is nearby - O2 sensor, Idle valve, fuel pump relay, MAF etc.

From memory the gain and update rate table examples given by me above are from my Evo road car (pretty much dead stock evo 7) the lambda probe is very close to the turbine outlet probably at the most 500mm from the exhaust port, in this car I have the reactivation delay set to 3 samples. In our WRX11 test car which also has the probe right after the turbine - but has much longer manifold primaries etc (probably more like 1500mm from port to probe) I have reactivation delay set to 5 samples. The update rate table is similar in both cars, the subaru could actually do with less than 1Hz at idle as it takes about 3 secs to respond to a change of PW but 1Hz is currently the lowest it can do. So what this means is in my evo with the reactivation delay set to 3 samples, if CLL was temporarily disabled due to over-run fuel cut or similar around idle where my update rate is 1Hz (1 sample per second), then CLL would be re-enabled 3 secs later. To give an example at the other end of the table, if I hit the RPM limit at 7000RPM where my update rate was 10Hz, then CLL would be disabled for only 0.3s.

Any of those options would be fine. You will need a pull up or a switched high signal. 1-10K would be fine for a pull-up. The "AN Volt*(status)" runtime gives you a digital hi/low status from the anvolt input.

You have two devices writing to the same parameter. The E888 from memory has 8 egt's, 8 analog inputs and 4 digital inputs, so it will be writing to CAN TC1-8, CAN ANVolt 1-8 and CAN DIG 1-4. But you also have the switchboard writing to CAN AN Volt 1 and CAN Dig 1. So you could change the CAN DIG to something >4 or one of the native DI functions, but you are out of CAN AN Volt channels and there are not a lot of native ones to choose from.

You likely have DI7/8/9/10 on the expansion connectors. DI6 can be used but it would 12V from the switch.

Use a cal table, set input units to ohms, output units to temperature. Go to the table then right click>import/export>import from file, choose the attached .lte. It should look like below when done. AEM 30-2012.lte

If you are sure the timing light shows the correct timing with the offset at 114 then either that or 360 earlier at -246 is correct. However, I just done a quick search for "M42" on the forum and the first map from a running M42 I found has the offset at -114, so I would be suspicious your 114 is not correct. Would need to see the trigger scope to confirm what sync mode you need. Does your engine have dumb coils?

I done a G4+ a few years ago with most of the dash working using user CAN streams. There is a copy of the G4+ map here: G4X CAN scaling has changed a bit for some parameters, but start by manually copying the CAN settings into your G4X map and then for anything that doesnt work look up the parameter in the CAN test calculator in both G4+ and G4X to see what has changed, you then just need to adjust offset of multiplier to make the G4X match what the G4+ was sending out.

You dont need the user stream, so your existing ecu CAN setup looks ok except I would change the transmit rate to 20Hz. Also check that your ecu firmware is at least V5.6.6.3593, earlier versions wouldnt have the MXS stream.

What ecu stream do you have set up in the dash?

The CAN devices tool is for re-programming Link CAN devices, it has no knowledge of and is not looking for any third party devices.

DI 6 has a pull-down on it to work with the factory AC switch. DI10 should work provided you have a V1.6 or later bottom board. The non-ethrottle boards didnt have DI10.

Set up ecu like below will match your dash config. When choosing the parameter in the user stream make sure you check the receive filter at the top right of the selection box. Use a CAN Freq channel. Set up your speed source in the ecu as CAN freq * with a calibration of 0.

Restore to factory settings does not clear the statistics. Only the Clear function. The engine is considered running when the RPM is above 400RPM. A start would be counted any time the RPM goes from 0 to >400.

So what ecu do you have? What CAN port is the dash wired to? Is it a Link branded dash or a generic Aim one? Can you attach a copy of your tune.

How do you come to that conclusion though? If half the shaft speed comes from heat, with an open throttle and 100% fuel cut you are now not adding any heat, the turbine is still consuming heat the whole time and to make matters worse you are now pushing cold exhaust gas through the manifold and turbine removing further stored energy. I would argue the loss of all that heat would exceed any increase in energy you may get from increasing mass flow. You still need to close the throttle before you can add the fuel back in. Manifold pressure at the time you want to reintroduce power will be no different.

Trig 1 & 2 are swapped over. Assuming this is a GTR plug-in ecu you can just change the DIP switches on the adapter board to swap trig1 and 2 over. The settings all look ok.

Ok, assuming your original ecu pinout looks like this one: http://northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/2000ecu1.jpg it is a bit of an odd one that im not all that familiar with. The main relay looks simple enough - The ign sw signal was originally pin B135-7, the main relay trigger is pin B135-19, you can just connect these 2 wires together, they dont need to connect to the ecu at all. The Main power supply from the main relay was originally B136-1 and B136-2, these are the wires that you need to use to power the Link ECU. The tacho will work fine, the tacho signal was originally B134-30, connect this to any spare aux output (not an ign or inj drive aux).

Would this car originally have had a 3 plug ecu (like our WRX4), 4 plug (WRX6) or 5 plug (like WRX9)? Most Subarus have a 12V low current "ign switch" signal that comes into the ecu, then the ecu sends a 12V trigger signal out to the main relay coil, then the main relay switches on and supplies the main ecu power and other devices. Typically this main relay control would be done with a small extra circuit rather than complicating it by trying to make the ecu do it. If its original ecu was similar to one of our subaru plug-in ecus then I will be able to suggest the easiest way to do that.