Adamw

The scan tool may need the oem engine ecu to communicate with the ABS or diff controller I dont know the platform well enough - or there may be a more serious issue like a ground missing. So, start with the manual flash code check that I suggested to see if that reports similar codes.

There is no CAN in an evo 9. There is comms between the engine ecu and diff ecu but it is only for MUT diagnostics - K-line I think. You shouldnt have any errors with our plug-in ecu, it should just work the same as the factory ecu. Have you changed anything else like the throttle body/TPS or DBW etc? I guess the first step is to read the flash codes to see what clues they give. To do this you bridge/short pin 1 to pin 4 in the OBD2 plug with a short piece of wire or paper clip etc then switch on ignition and the ACD snow/gravel/tarmac lights will start flashing. Long flashes are "tens" then a pause, the short flashes are "ones".

Ok, I just dug a bit deeper, I didnt initially realise the L15B7 was a turbo'd version, the L15B that our base map is from is the common Jazz/Fit engine which is NA. So that means there may be significant hardware differences compared to our L15B base map. Metrics such as injector flow rate, GDI pump lobe profile and electronic characteristics etc are likely quite different. Unfortunately this data is very difficult for an end user to reverse engineer so I no longer feel the Force GDI is a good fit. The G5 would be even less so. You really want an option where the supplier has done all the reverse engineering for you and can supply a fairly complete map or configuration that will allow it to run "out of the box" with no major engineering required. If it were the NA L15B, then the G4+ Force would have been as good as any, but with the unknowns of the B7 I have concerns it would be a big job. It would be worth discussing with Hondata if the flash pro has enough configuration to allow standalone use, otherwise the only other ecu company I have seen run the L15 is Emtron but I have a feeling they may only have experience with the NA version as well.

The ecu will only attempt to control idle when idle conditions are met. Obviously you dont want the ecu trying to control RPM when you are travelling on the highway - so you need to specify the conditions under which you allow the ecu to control idle - usually this would be throttle pedal less than say 0.5%, speed below say 15kmh, RPM less than 500RPM above target, MAP below some driving value, etc. If you were holding the throttle open and the RPM was above the lockout then the ecu is not going to attempt to control idle. Further more, in open loop mode the ecu isn't actually controlling the RPM - all that it does is move the throttle to whatever base position you tell it to move to. Only in closed loop mode the ecu will adjust things to try to control RPM at the target. The idle base position table. And not necessarily 2.5%, give it whatever it needs to achieve the desired target RPM. You would be best to start by reading the help file page: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control > Open Loop ISC and follow through with that procedure. Once the rest of the engine is tuned then you can move on to: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control > Closed Loop ISC

Crank enrichment will always happen when cranking regardless. Pre-crank prime may or may not depending if it is set to key on mode or start pos mode. In Key on mode it will only occur when you first turn the key on and wont happen again until the ign is switched off and back on again.

CAN bus is not particularly useful for knock as your measurement needs to be synchronous with crankshaft position. To make the native knock input available it is not an especially technical job - basically soldering a wire link in. Do you or any of your friends have experience with soldering?

Can you load this map and do another log. It is hard to tell much when the map doesn't match what was used to create the log file so this map has some more typical settings. 13toedit V1.1.pclx

Are you talking about a Jimny also? It would be pretty unusual for an ecu to control an analog temp gauge, I suspect the "temp" wire in that drawing linked above would be for a warning light rather than the gauge.

Can you attach a copy of the tune, the fuel pressure looks more like a set up issue, it looks like it is just dropping to zero because anvolt 4 has an incorrect error high value, it looks like about 1.75V. The lambda doesnt go lean when the fuel press shows zero so I dont think the fuel press is actually low. I suspect your hesitation issue may be accel enrichment related. I will confirm after seeing the tune but it looks like there are possibly two issues - 1. Your accel enrichment deadband is set to low so you have accel fuel constantly dumping extra fuel in when its not needed, fixing this may make it run a bit leaner. 2. I have a feeling you dont have enough accel sens and possibly not enough cold correction on the accel fuel, there is barely any when warm and not much more when cold.

APS = Accelerator Postition Sensor. This is your throttle pedal, there are two sensors for error checking/safety.

AN Volt 7 is connected to the rear narrowband sensor originally but as KO suggests it is not assigned in our base map so someone has changed yours, it has possibly had a wideband wired to it.

Error 49 on lambda one I have only ever seen caused by a fake sensor. Do a log with the engine off and set run when stalled to yes to see if there is a temperature issue or if it is a bad sensor.

Multiple fault codes will be sent out individually for about 2 secs each. If you look at the Y axis of this plot that would be the value sent in the byte.

The narrow band sensors are connected but unless you have a catalytic converter and need to meet emissions requirements they wont be used. As for E85 cold start, ethanol has a very low vapour pressure, what that means is at low temperatures it produces very little vapour, it doesnt have the highly volatile components to create vapour that petrol does. You need vaporised fuel for combustion, liquid fuel will not combust. You can in theory get a little more vapour by just adding more liquid but you get to a point where that no longer helps or starts to even make matters worse. I dont know the reason for that - whether it is a saturation thing or ignition difficulty or something else Im not sure. For acceptable cold start with E85 you need to generate as much vapour as you can. The biggest problem I see is usually no consideration of the injector at all, many of the modified injectors have the diffuser plate completely cut off etc and flow more like a garden hose than a mist. A few considerations; You need injectors with very good fine atomisation, the finer the droplet, the more surface area you have exposed to air. A spray pattern suitable for the port - ie dual cone for 16V engines etc. Smaller injectors at the highest pressure possible is better than larger injectors and normal pressure. Injector timing should be moved later when cold so that the bulk of the injection occurs when intake port velocity is highest - EOI around 200BTDC. In countries like Brazil where they use E100 in everything they actually use heated injectors to overcome this issue.

You have made an ambiguous logic. The 24X crank wheel has a unique identifier on it every 90degs, so the ecu can determine the crank position as soon as the crank has rotated 90deg, once the ecu knows crank position it just needs to check if the cam is high or low and since the cam only changes state once every 360 deg, it then knows full cycle position so can start right away. With your combo the cam level will be wrong for 3 of the 4 possible check positions.

The high threshold is about 1.6V, low threshold is about 1.0V. The DI pull-up if enabled is 4K7 to regulated 12V, there is a low drop schottky in series with the pull-up so consider it more like 11.7V pull-up. I would expect it should work fine with almost any automotive hall sensor out there provided the sensor and ECU ground are at similar potential.

Use a virtual aux to enable launch only in conditions it is likely to be used, for example speed <10kmh and TP > 40% or similar

That is expected, a oxygen sensor cant work when you are pumping raw oxygen through the exhaust.

I cant download your scope files for some reason but it sounds like you have a mismatched cam and crank set. You cant use a 24X crank wheel with the 58X cam pattern, both need to match. The 24X crank should have a cam level type sync - basically a long single tooth that is high for 360deg, low for 360deg.

In your first log you still had the RPM limit at zero. In the second log it looks ok. The Cam sensor waveform doesnt matter, these things flip upside down when running. The ecu is only looking at edges. Your throttle is sealed shut when cranking so you need to add something to your idle base position table and startup step table, copy the idle settings out of Vaughan's map above would be a good starting point. If still no signs of life try adding or subtracting 360deg from your trigger offset as that will change depending on which cam is used for sync. Also you may need to increase master fuel, im not sure what the stock injector size is and I dont remember what injectors Vaughan's car has. Your current 17ms would be about the ballpark for 550cc injectors, you will want more like 25ms if they are say 350cc.

Yeah identification of Subarus after V7 is a bit of a confusing mess - but still works better than using years. Subaru officially stopped using version numbers after V7, so users made up their own versions after that. For most of the world they refer to the "bug eye" as V7, the blob eye as V8 or 9 and the hawk eye as V10. USA decided to do it differently than everyone else, they dont differentiate between V8 & 9, they call all blob eyes V8 and the hawk eye V9.

Yes the Force GDI would be an easy option for this, there is a well-set-up base map for the GDI L15 in PC Link. This combo is quite commonly used in aircraft.

If you have a WRX104 ecu then this what we call a version 10.

Also dont mistake active state with drive type. Regardless of active state a PWM output will always be a low side drive - that is it can only supply significant current to ground. It is pulled-up to 12V when not driven low but it will only be able to provide about 5mA in the high direction. I would expect that device you have if it is designed for PWM wouldnt require any significant current but who knows. You can check by measuring voltage at the device when the aux is in a high state.

So if you havent fitted ignitors to drive the coils then this will be your problem. Those would be dumb coils that require an ignitor to drive, the ecu ignition drives are only a low current signal and will not drive a dumb coil directly. You will either need to fit an external ignitor or change to smart coils with ignitors built in. The Bosch 0 227 100 211 4 channel ignitor is quite common for bike coils.