Adamw

The V7-9 ecu didnt use the TGV position inputs, they are not connected. AN Volt 3 is the original TPS input.

Correct, either splice the two 16AWG output wires close to the PDM to a single larger wire, or run the 2 wires all the way to the device. Splicing to a single wire close to the source is typically considered the preferred option for high current devices as with the shared wire option you have more risk of overheating a wire if there is some factor that causes the load to not be shared equally between the wires such as a bad crimp or broken copper strand etc.

What ecu do you have? The RHS and LHS TGV positions are completely independent so nothing needs to be bridged. But im confused about your mention of AN Volt 3 and AN Temp 3, none of our subaru plug-ins uses those for TGV position as far as I remember.

If it is an EJ20 based engine I would try normalised mode, then variables like RPM, load, distance from the sensor, mechanical noise etc has very little effect on the threshold. Copy all the settings out of our WRX11 base map.

The Garret one is available in a plain threaded body, M6 x 0.5. https://racespeconline.com/products/turbo-shaft-speed-sensor

It doesn’t say anything about degrees or degrees absolute retard mode. It is saying not to use a fuel cut with aux injection which is what I already stated above.

This is all stuff that your tuner would typically optimise for MBT on the dyno in a few hours, its not all that relevant to your application unless efficiency and emissions is the goal. The important thing to understand about GDI is that the characterisation of the fuel pump and injectors is very important and must be accurate. Your high pressure fuel pump is a positive displacement pump and petrol is basically not compressible. So, to be able to control the fuel pressure in the rail you must pump the exact same volume of fuel into the rail as the injectors have just released from the rail. The pump volume must be known, the pump cam lobe profile must be accurately measured, the pump lobe centers in relation to the triggers must be known, the pump peak and hold currents and deadtimes must be known, the injector flowrate, deadtimes, P&H currents and boost voltages etc must all be known.

That doesnt sound correct, can you show me where you read this statement? The only limitation I can think of with auxiliary injection related to launch control is you shouldn't use a fuel cut limiter as the aux injection events do not use the same timing as the main injectors, so you could end up with the main injectors cut but the aux injectors still injecting, which may result in a very lean combustion event.

Yeah there is def something wrong with your lambda set-up, I suspect at least the calibration is wrong, It is unlikely that you can idle at 1.5 lambda. Your IAT fuel comp is pulling fuel out when IAT is only 25°C so that is probably undesired. The rest of the basics look ok from a quick look. The VR4 adapter board doesnt actually have the knock input pin connected. It will need a wire link soldered in to make the knock input available. The VR4 factory knock sensor is also not useful, it needs to be replaced with a bosch doughnut sensor preferably (I dont know if the Talon sensor is the same as a VR4 but I assume so).

Possibly just the error event was too short to be captured by the statistics (one tooth event).

So did they characterise the pump and injectors themselves and they are going to provide that information to you?

You really need to discuss with the loom manufacturer, surely they have some documentation or instruction on what needs to be connected to the loom they made. There's not much I can tell you without a schematic or other information of the circuit design. Your explanation doesnt really make sense either, the ecu should not be powered from a relay 86 terminal, usually it would be an from an 87 terminal, along with injectors and other 12V devices. Terminal 86 would usually be connected to an ignition switch or similar.

Yes this appears to be a PID tuning issue. I cant really make any suggestions for PID values as I have no personal experience with the EvoX throttle so you will need to experiment yourself. Based on other cars with similar throttles, my guess is most likely derivative gain needs to be increased a lot. To tune e-throttle PID I typically set up a time plot with TP main and E-throttle target on the same graph, set up the E-throttle target table so that it quickly steps between 20% and 80% with a small pedal movement. With the time plot running live (engine off) move the pedal and watch how well TP follows target, how much oscillation, overshoot, undershoot etc. Change only one P, I or D gain at a time and test each change. Target set up:

Flash code 43 doesn't sound right if you have a Monsoon. Unlikely related to your no spark issue anyhow. The wire colour difference probably means you dont have a Link loom. Has the ecu actually been set up for the application? Have you confirmed spark with the Ignition test function? Are all sensors calibrated and reading correctly? Are you seeing RPM reported in the software when cranking? Have you checked base timing? Some info about the application/engine and a copy of the tune and a log would be helpful.

The S13 and S15 plug-in ECU's have a 7Bar MAP sensor onboard, you just need to run a vac hose to the ecu. It will run and drive gently with minimal adjustments to the base map, but it will need tuning before any significant driving.

Assuming you can get ABS hubs/sensors for the S13 then they can be used, and the falcon ones will work also.

You either have a bad connection or a dead sensor. But since the problem apparently occurred after you disturbed the wiring I would lean more towards a bad connection. Set up a multimeter measuring the resistance between ground and trig 1 pin at the ecu while wiggling/bending/yanking/pulling all the relevant bits of loom to find the issue. You will see the resistance jump around when you find the problem spot.

No we dont support electronic gates directly as yet. I wouldnt bother however unless you are trying to do something very special that cant be achieved with a pneumatic gate. I had a lot of experience with those specific actuators when developing the Gazoo FT60 electronics, we decided to use them to make cheating more difficult for the teams but I wouldnt bother with them again. They took a lot of work to get barely satisfactory boost control, poor response to boost spikes etc, very unreliable (worm gears strip or break). We had to add special firmware tricks to make them less fragile such as zeroing the position sensor automatically after the turbo was hot and lowering the motor power towards the mechanical stops etc. Boost control was never as good as the pneumatic gate.

Your google share is restricted, go back in to sharing settings and set it to the option that is something like "anyone with link".

Pin 1 & 2 are primary and secondary ground, connect both to the cyl head. Pin 3 is +12V, Pin 4 is the trigger signal from ecu.

You now need to tune the dash pot function so that it enters idle conditions nicely. It is best to just do this using trial and error, set up a time plot with Eng speed on top of idle target, give the throttle a blip, watch how the RPM comes down and transitions to idle target - how much undershoot etc, then adjust one dash pot setting and give it another blip to see if its better or worse. Repeat until you have got the right balance of offset/hold/decay.

I would turn off closed loop lambda and knock control while tuning. Your accel fuel cold correction table has zeros in it so this needs to be fixed, it should be 1.0 at normal operating temp and say 2-5 for a cold engine. Your charge temp approximation table needs realistic values in it before tuning, copy the example from the help file as a starting point.

Ok, a few things to change: Your boost control is dropping back to stage 1 during gearshifts, it should only drop back to stage 2 for a fast gear shift. Increase the deactivation timeout to about 0.4s. Add some stage 3 ON delay so that derivative can "put the brakes on" for long enough to stop overshoot before switching to stage 3. Around 0.3s is typical. Increase derivative gain. All of your gains are very low so closed loop isn't actually doing a lot in your setup, but derivative is typically way higher. More typical would be 2-20. You will prob want to increase integral clamp also as 2% doesnt allow the ecu much adjustment.

Both this most recent scope and the first one shows trig 1 and trig 2 sensors are wired incorrect polarity. So im not sure what you are up you with your jumper wires but it is not flipping polarity. You need to swap the +/- wires at the plug for the cam and crank sensor. If you know the other 3 can sensors are wired the same way then you might as well swap those as well while you are at it (these other cams dont matter to make it run though). The pattern on the cam also dosnt match our "duratec VCT" trigger mode (the 4cyl duratech has 5 teeth on the cam) mode but I think it will probably still work (may take an extra rev to sync or may intermitantly mis-sync). I will investigate that a bit later when I get time and advise. Leave it as it for now. So, swap polarity on trig 1/2. Reset base timing. If still no signs of life then you are possibly sparking on the exhaust stroke, add or subtaract 360deg from your offset and try again.

Yes, you can set Aux 1 to be any fan number you like. If you are only using Aux1/Fan1, I would also suggest setting the other unused fans to trigger at a much higher temperature so they dont trip any idle fan step when you dont expect it.