Adamw

You cant have stationary launch and latched launch set up at the same time, but you could use the 3D RPM limit or a GP RPM limit to do the stationary launch instead. I think trying to make the buttons do cruise control as well wouldnt be wise due to the potential logic conflicts you could create.

Are you sure it is a DTM and not a DT? Having said that, if we are talking 4 x direct spark, denso COP at a redline of say 8000RPM, lets say a 2ms dwell (20% duty) where dwell ramps up linearly over that 2ms to say a peak of 8A, your average current draw on that single wire supply will be 3.2A total for the 4 coils. Your proposed wire sizes will be fine.

It would be fine. The calibration value for 5 teeth on a 650mm diameter wheel would be ~245

Example Below. Example below. Launch button is DI3. DI3 is used to activate/reset a timer. Set up a virtual aux with a condition timer < 8.00s, we will use this virtual aux to activate launch control (the timer will only be <8s when your finger is on the button and for 8s after you let go). Set launch control to 3D mode, with virtual aux 1 as the activation control. Put timer 1 on one axis of the 3D launch table, this will vary your launch RPM limit based on time after launch.

Yes the ecu would control the ground side of those solenoids. The idle valve should be connected to Aux 1-10, the purge could be any aux or spare inj drive.

Check Vaughan's last post, your dip switches were already ok, it just has an aftermarket trigger wheel. Set your triggers up as per his pictures.

GD coils wouldnt have external ignitors, they have ignitors built in. If you have smart coils you can wire 2 coils in wasted spark pairs to a single ign drive.

Your log still shows no accel enrichment and overrun fuel cut is still active, so it doesnt look like you followed these instructions. You will also need to adjust your idle base position to match the new target RPM and the rest of the stall issue I would say just needs the dashpot function tuned.

You have no RPM when cranking, so its not happy with the trigger. You can do a trigger scope while cranking to confirm but my first thought would be most likely the ADM/JDM dip switch is set to the incorrect option. Once you have RPM working then you will need to set base timing, try the offset around -100 as a starting point.

That would sound like an electrical noise issue since you have trigger errors when ignition load is high and disconnection issues at the same time. What does it have for an ignition system?

TP/Target error is usually a tune issue, the throttle is either taking too long to reach target, or the PID is too aggressive so an unstable oscillation sometimes initiates. Set up ECU logging to record all the common E-throttle related channels, including the error accumulators etc so you have some data next time it occurs.

Yes that will be fine, maybe 5A max for a very short time on fast throttle movements, most of the time prob less than 2A. That should be fine with just the PDM "fuse", set around 10A. That is fine. A couple of other comments; Bench test the starter solenoid before committing to confirm the PDM can handle it, some of those are huge inrush and about 30A continuous on the pull winding. I would also test the fans too, those currents sound suspiciously low for Spals. The idle valve, purge valve and LSU could likely all go on one ADIO to leave a couple of spares.

The latest one VTS 4.10.2

Start with these changes in orange for the fuel settings: Calibrate your TPS so it is reading 0% at idle. Then the changes below for the idle settings. The dashpot offset, hold and decay you just need to experiment with to get the nice entry into idle conditions without undershoot. The target RPM may need to come up a bit, 700RPM is possibly a little on the low side.

What makes you think there is a wiring issue? Under what conditions does the error occur? or does it not work at all? Can you attach a copy of the tune and a log of the error occurring. Do the TP and AP calibrations succeed? Yes the green wire is likely AYC, and yes it is normal to share it with both ecu's. There is no DBW relay on this ecu.

Actually those look like a reed switch, so basically when a blade passes through the gap a contact is magnetically closed, when there is no blade the contact springs back open. If it is anything like the Toyota and Nissan ones from the similar era it is likely just end of life, the contacts either get sticky or slow to close so you get the erratic speed signal.

You have a crank and cam sensor capable of 720deg cycle positioning, the ecu knows which cylinder in knocking and it can retard the spark just on the cylinder that is knocking.

It is set to bosch in your map. It should be set to Delphi AC IAT.

Pull the cas or distributor out and spin it by hand or with a cordless drill - do you get RPM in PC Link or on the hand controller?

Your idle control is set to open loop in the log so I cant tell you much about why closed loop isn't working. Did you ever have it set to closed loop? With no data to reference the only thing that jumps out at me is your MAP lockout is too low, set it to about 70kpa. Do a log with closed loop enabled if you want further help. I also cant tell you much about knock control since the log is mostly only an idling engine, but there are no negative knock levels reported in the log as you claim? Otherwise the basic knock settings look ok, I would suggest you assign a separate knock table to each cylinder and set the retard limit to 0 until the system is tuned and proven to be detecting knock well.

What type of sensor is it?

Attach your tune and a short log showing the problem

Are you sure the IAT is reading correctly? It starts off at 19°C which is the same as the coolant temp before it is started, but then as the engine warms up, your coolant increases to about 95°C which is normal, but your IAT drops to 7°C? It seems a bit unbelievable if to have IAT at 7°C when the engine bay would be 80+, unless it has an ice box charge cooler or similar? Once you confirm that, the other settings you should change is turn off the IAT correction table and put some realistic values in the charge temp approximation table - the example table in the help file is a good starting point for most.

Please attach a copy of your tune and a log. BTW, I deleted your other post so you don't end up with 2 different threads for the same subject going in different directions.

A G4 with serial number <10000 will need to be modified to enable high speed CAN, and the CAN is not configurable in G4 either.