Adamw

If you unplug the connector from the back of the dash and with ignition on, measure the voltage between pin 4 & 36 and 4 & 35, what voltages do you have there?

Tune it first and worry about accel and idle only after main fuel and ign is tuned.

The extended sync for missing tooth cam triggers that this post is discussing was fixed back in 6.20 firmware.

That post is for a G4, almost nothing in common with a G4X.

You need to attach the actual scope file, not a pic. But yes there is cross talk there, assuming it is a stock distributor which has the one shared ground wire for both sensors, the most likely reason for the crosstalk would be the ground wire is broken/disconnected - so trig 1 is instead grounding through trig 2 and vice versa.

0.75 or 1.0mm would be ok for the main power supplies and grounds/070 terminals, for all the signal wires you would probably be better with 0.5mm. The gkw wire is also very large insulation diameter so check it is going to fit into the connectors before you commit, most automotive connectors are designed for very thin wall insulation. You will want shielded wire for the triggers and knock sensor also.

Yes, with engine warmed up and at fast idle so it is running above the VVT RPM and ECT lockout, set the cam angle test to RH Inlet, and set the test pulse count to 3. Go to the runtimes screen, VVT tab and view the 3 cam angles reported in the absolute cam position category. The smallest angle is what you enter into the offset field on DI2. Turn the cam angle test back to off when done.

The attached files I have set up Aux 1 to be sent to the PMU, this is received into the PMU as input channel "ECU NOS Request". I have not set up any control logic in the PMU. charles sa14 CAN from ECU.pmu Charles racecar CAN to PMU.pclr

No, the ecu will only send and/or receive whatever you set it up as a CAN channel. You could use the Razor PDM stream if you wanted (format is described in the help file) which does both transmit and receive on the same channel, but from memory the PMU cant send compound CAN messages so you are probably better to just stick with a basic user stream.

You can send them on any ID and in any format you like, sending a CAN aux is the same as sending a virtual aux.

Neither is correct I woiuld say, everyone I have started is very close to 0 offset.

We dont really have a solution for that. The are a couple of 3rd party BEAN controllers that may allow a wire-in ECU to be used, I have no personal experience with them to share. One is from All4Swap.ru, I forget the other one I have seen. Piggyback installations can be difficult in the later toyotas as they use differential inputs for the triggers, sharing the trigger signal with an ecu that references ground can need a lot of trial and error to make both systems happy.

Yes, a worn TPS generally means replacing the throttle body. As for "loose connection", it could be anywhere - a bad crimp, broken wire, loose terminal, bad splice etc. A quick test you can do is set up a blank page on your laptop screen with two very large gauges showing just TP Sub and TP main on the screen. With Ign on, engine off go around all the relevant parts of the loom and shake/pull/yank/bend/wiggle etc while watching the screen, if you see either TP suddenly signal change when you are doing that then that would suggest a bad connection in that area. This testing needs cover as much of the path as possible - so ecu end of the loom, TP end of the loom, anywhere there are splices for the 5V or Gnd and the general path from ecu to TP.

You've got way too much accel fuel, your PW at idle is about 1ms, and you have 8-15ms of accel fuel added when you blip the throttle (ie 1400% extra fuel), more typically you would see accel fuel add around 30-150% extra. I would change the breakpoints on the TP axis of the fuel table to 0,2,5,8,11,15,20,30,50,70,100. Zero out or turn off the 4D fuel table. Populate the charge temp approximation table with the example shown in the help file. For the Accel sens table, start with 3 right across. In the main fuel settings change Async min PW to 0.5ms. And get a more realistic Ign table in there, you should then have a better starting point to work from.

Please do a trigger scope capture while cranking and attach that and a copy of your tune.

If they are connected to the factory wiring then they arent being used.

You most likely have a wiring issue then, I tested both files on the bench with a Thunder and my old ADL.

Has it ever returned to zero? The effect you are seeing here would occur if the DI offset was never set or if there had been any maintenance after it was last set.

Ok the TP sub voltage starts reading much lower than it should in the areas where it fails. It could be a loose connection or failing TP sensor, but since you have =3 logs here showing it failing at idle position I think that points more towards the sensor - they usually wear out around the idle area first.

What is it connected to - the factory wiring or some aftermarket controller?

Try these base map bat V2.pclr SDL Generic Dash.U16

What CAN port is it wired to on the ECU? You have a dash set up on both CAN 1 and CAN2?

Provided the fan relay kit has been designed to be "ground triggered" it will be fine, connect to one of the spare ign drives on the expansion loom.

The files are restricted. Go back into the sharing settings and choose the option that is something like "anyone with link".

You will need to log gear pos voltage at 500Hz minimum to see enough detail. It is not going to work correctly with a gear position voltage that rolls past 0V and back to 5V during a normal shift. It is ok for that to happen during an R or N shift but not for a normal shift. Your voltage doesnt reflect barrel rotation so the "next gear voltage margin wont be applied incorrectly. If we plotted gear pos voltage (Y axis) Vs gear barrel rotation yours would look something like below. So the correct shift end would be 0.15V before 5th which is 4.65V where I have put the green dot. But because the ecu only knows 4th is 0.34V and 5th is 4.5V, it will use 4.5-0.15 = 4.35V as the shift end (where I have the red dot), which is only about halfway through the shift. Notice also 4.65V would occur just above the red dot as well so even if you fudged the voltages somehow the shift end would still occur in the wrong place.