Adamw

Both this most recent scope and the first one shows trig 1 and trig 2 sensors are wired incorrect polarity. So im not sure what you are up you with your jumper wires but it is not flipping polarity. You need to swap the +/- wires at the plug for the cam and crank sensor. If you know the other 3 can sensors are wired the same way then you might as well swap those as well while you are at it (these other cams dont matter to make it run though). The pattern on the cam also dosnt match our "duratec VCT" trigger mode (the 4cyl duratech has 5 teeth on the cam) mode but I think it will probably still work (may take an extra rev to sync or may intermitantly mis-sync). I will investigate that a bit later when I get time and advise. Leave it as it for now. So, swap polarity on trig 1/2. Reset base timing. If still no signs of life then you are possibly sparking on the exhaust stroke, add or subtaract 360deg from your offset and try again.

Yes, you can set Aux 1 to be any fan number you like. If you are only using Aux1/Fan1, I would also suggest setting the other unused fans to trigger at a much higher temperature so they dont trip any idle fan step when you dont expect it.

I want a copy of the tune/map/calibration/configuration from your ecu so we can see your settings. There is a start up guide in the manual that cam with the ecu.

The AC fan is controlled by Aux 1. If you want to add an extra fan then you could use Ign 5/6/7 on the expansion connector, or whichever of Aux 5 or Inj 6 that isn't being used for the fuel pump.

attach a copy of your tune.

Will need to see a log.

All limits have a control range, the default for the MAP limit is 10Kpa. This means at 10Kpa below your set limit the "start cut" is applied, this is progressively ramped up to the "end cut" at your set limit. So the "Limit" is the absolute maximum that you never want to exceed, it is not the value that you want to start limiting at. Your MAP limit is currently set to 282kpa so limiting will start at 272kpa, this is about 24.8psi boost so if you are getting a cut it sounds like it is overshooting the 253kpa target by quite a bit. Will need to see a log to see the reason.

The oscillation is due to too much proportional I think, but there is quite a bit of other stuff wrong. You really need to tune it in open-loop mode first. Wastegate % DC2 table has TPS(sub) on the Y axis, it should be TPS(main) since you dont have a sub sensor. This table also has DC values of 75% in it, but the log shows you only need about 40% to achieve the target boost.

Assuming the problem is mostly idle or just above idle and it runs better with larger throttle openings, I'd lean more towards ITB sync - the few 911 ITB linkages that I have had experience with weren't particularly well designed. Intake "spit back" is a common symptom of itb's out of sync, especially during warmup. Have you got a synchrometer? You really need to tune this with a Alpha-N strategy, you idle at 80kpa MAP and WOT is 99kpa so your fuel control is going to be pretty crap. I would use TPS for ignition load also. Why is it idling at 1500RPM when cold? I assume it doesn't have an idle valve? What coils/ignitors do you have and is it a twin plug or single plug engine? Im not sure if you have attached the right log then? There is no throttle movement near 1:16. I see something possibly similar around 3:34? This is from the ignition timing jumping from 8deg to 26deg, and the root cause of this is using MAP/MGP as the load reference as mentioned above. A couple of other things I noticed: Inj deadtime table is messed up Idle target RPM is zero, and idle MAP lockout is 50kpa so idle ign is not working.

You can upload your file to a file sharing service and just post a link here. Onedrive, google drive, dropbox, wetransfer etc.

Are you still using the factory solenoid like you mentioned in your other thread? Im pretty sure the factory solenoid has very little effect. I would suggest starting in open loop mode and set the wastegate DC to 100% to see if there is any chance of control. Some of it is because you have the multiplier set to 0.9, this means the ECU is sending out a signal 0.9 x the actual RPM. Normally the multiplier would be 1.0, but in your case you may have some excessive damping or inaccuracy in the tacho so you may have to set the multiplier higher than 1.0. The important thing is that it should be set to read correctly at steady state, rather than to try to get the sweep RPM to match.

Thats a bit of an odd one. If I've got it right you have a 70deg Vee, with 2 shared crank pins that are 180 apart? So firing angles would be 0, 180, 430, 610? Weird that we have 3 different firing angles. Right now we would only be able to run it with a more generic trigger wheel pattern. Preferably a missing tooth pattern which would allow the MAP sensor sync, provided it has individual throttles. I can talk to the firmware team on Monday to see how much work it would be to support that wheel. Im assuming that is the factory wheel? Do you know if it is hall effect or VR sensor? That long tooth I think is going to be a problem if it is a VR sensor.

Yeah there are certainly options we could have tried if needed, he was happy enough after just some small adjustments of a relatively typical-looking warmup strategy. I suspect there was possibly some part of the cooling system not as originally intended as this seemed to run very cold considering it is relatively mild temperature here. I know it had all the cabin heater stuff removed which may have originally had some sort of throttling or air bypass to control temperature better, It's not a platform I know very well.

The Evo wasted spark ignition system is very noisy, make sure it has resistor spark plugs, a relatively small spark gap (~0.7mm), and the HT lead boots and coil stalks are tight fitting with no cracks etc.

It looks like I missed the base position table in the last map I supplied above. We should check TPS calibration again as in those last logs you are idling at 1700RPM with only 1.5% TPS which may indicate the throttles are actually open more than the TPS shows. So, load in this new map, go to > Electronic Throttle>E-throttle 1, set it to setup mode. Start a PC Log (F8), Then go to > Electronic Throttle>E-throttle 1>Throttle position sensor, double click on the TPS calibration spanner, follow the instructions onscreen. Stop the log and save it as "TP cal". If the TP calibration failed then post the log here. If successful, set the e-throttle mode back to "ON", do a store. Do a new log of a start-up and some idling. 5222023 idle tweaks v2.pclx

Can you attach a copy of the tune, and a trigger scope capture while cranking.

I guess you are talking about a VR4 plug-in? They dont have a factory MAP sensor, pin 10 is the MAF (airflow meter), pin 16 was a baro sensor which our ecu doesnt use as it has a baro sensor built-in. Our ecu also has a built-in 4 bar MAP sensor, you dont need to wire anything.

The main difference between those 2 logs is you have AC running in the second one, so you need more AC offset - and usually a bit of AC idle up is used also.

ITB's need to be balanced with a synchrometer or manometers/vacuum gauges if there are individual vac nipples, you cant do it by feel/look/measurement.

You dont have any outputs assigned for the VVT solenoids. The exhaust cams can only move in the retard direction on this engine so you need to use negative values in your exhaust target table.

If you are in fact talking about the threshold dropping to zero and the threshold table doesnt have zeros in it, then you can view the "knock system status" runtime to see what is locking the system out.

It would be fine to have the switches grounding the relay trigger/aux pin. The 12V supply to the relay coils will still need to be ignition switched however so you wont be able to override the relays when the ignition is off.

You can test the input by temporarily changing its function to GP input, with the senor unplugged the DI3 status should show OFF, if you then short the signal wire and ground wire together in the cam sensor plug with a paperclip or similar then the DI status should show active. If you dont get any response when shorting at the cam sensor plug, then try the same test at the ecu end of the loom.

There are various form factors, basically it is a capacitor placed between the coil power supply and ground, it effectively shorts high-frequencies to ground, this reduces noise but in some setups it is also used to reduce the length of the return path that the high voltage has to travel through to get back to the coil from the spark plug. It is especially important for coils which dont have a separate secondary ground pin - so instead the secondary return is connected to the primary 12V pin. Many OEM set-ups have them, especially older ignition systems with separate ignitors. Have a watch of this video from about the half way point for a better explanation with pictures etc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1HfbXyYzSM Some examples: Toyota has a nice one built into a connector body:

Most of the Porsche cyl head temp sensors use the Std Bosch NTC calibration. I have come across one earlier car (mid '80s) that appeared to use the 0280130017 calibration. Set it to Std Bosch NTC to start with, if it isn't correct it will be quite obvious if it doesnt report a realistic room temp with a cold engine. As for typical temps, I found them to be quite sensitive to ambient temp. We have quite mild temperatures in the city I live, say 0°C on the coldest winter day Vs 30°C on the hottest summer day. The most recent one I tuned in summer acted pretty similar to a water cooled engine on the dyno - it sat around 100°C most of the time, it would creep up to 120ish when idling after a full power run, but I didnt have any trouble keeping temp under control even without a lot of airflow through the engine bay when tuning. Temp would come back down quickly at RPM a bit higher than idle. But the owner rang me a few months later because in winter when cruising on the motorway he found the head temp would drop so low that the warmup enrichment would kick back in. From memory we had to drop the warmup enrichment out at about 60°C which was a bit of a compromise.