Adamw

They are hall effect and should be set to rising edge. The first scope capture is wrong as it was set to reluctor during that. The 2nd one looks like it is a capture of a stationary engine (capture button probably clicked before cranking). The 3rd one only shows about half a crank revolution, but what is there looks ok.

I only had a vague recollection so I just asked one of the firmware engineers, they are sampled at 500Hz. Be aware there is more hardware filtering in these older generation ecu's compared to modern stuff where there is more power to do most of it in software.

In your log you've got an engine protection limiter kicking in at 2000RPM because the oil metering pump is not following the commanded position. Do you still have the pump fitted?

The current PC Link already has the updated Win 11 compatible driver and I haven't heard of any issues with it. I have been using Win 11 for the last few months now. The only 2 causes I have seen for the "update failed" is the main ecu power supply missing (common on Nissans if the main connector is not pushed in fully at the ends) - the ecu will still power up via a backfeed and connect but will brown out when the current draw increases during the update or the 2nd most common cause is connection speed setting in the ecu configuration menu set to slow.

Give this a try. Sam R33 tune Haltech CAN.pclx

Sorry for the slow reply I only just noticed your post. To power up the ecu the supporting dealer used to supply a power adapter cable that plugged into the 3 pin power connector (brown is neg and red/orange is pos) which had alligator clips to connect to a battery or other power supply. You will likely have to make your own if you dont have that. I've attached a copy of the manual which is pretty generic but has info on the expansion pins etc. Arctic Cat M800 PlugIn Manual.pdf

What CAN port is the gauge connected to?

I have the Haltech CAN protocol document. Attach your ecu map and I will set it up.

The fuel level sensor wire will need to be connected to one of the analog inputs on the dash, you will also need a pull-up resistor of about 200ohms connected between the signal wire and the aim +Vreference pin.

For the injector size you adjust the master fuel value, a smaller value gives less fuel, a larger value gives more. For 1700cc primary injectors I would set the master fuel value to about 7ms as a starting point. Do a short log of it cranking and attach it here. How to do a log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Did you follow all the pre-start checks in the manual - check sensor calibrations, base timing etc? Has the ecu been unlocked? What size injectors do you have? Are you getting realistic RPM displayed in PC Link when cranking? Can you attach a copy of your map and a short log of it cranking. Please keep all your related discussion and questions in this one thread please, asking the same stuff several times in each forum is only going to make it more difficult to follow instructions etc. I have deleted all your other posts.

It is receiving a trigger signal that it is not happy with intermittently. RPM gives a spike just before the RPM drops to zero which suggests trigger 1 isn't happy either. It could be the trig 2 arming threshold as I mentioned so I would try that first, but otherwise you are really going to need to get a scope connected to see what is wrong. It may not be your main problem, but there is def something flakey there. I suspect the "no start" will be that it is sparking on the exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke due to the sync not being seen. The fuel pressure seems a little odd too, with the engine not cranking it shows 273kpa, and it jumps up to 360kpa when cranking. It drops back down to 274kpa as soon as cranking stops which kind of hints there is no check valve holding the pressure - so why is it still sitting at 273kpa with the pump off? It could be a check valve, but the trace is so dead flat it gives me the impression more of a sensor or calibration issue.

My general advice when considering any control strategy is to always keep the KISS design principle in the front of your mind. For sure there are cases where "simple" isn't enough, but usually you still want the bare minimum that can achieve the result. At the moment your wastegate DC varies with RPM, boost, wheel speed, ECT, IAT, ethanol content, and now you want to add a CAN variable too. That is 7 dimensions of control to tune... However, if you really do want to add more complication, here is how I would do it: Enable a GP PWM table, set it up the same as your existing GP boost table. Note GP PWM tables can only take positive values so use the same numbers but without the negative sign in front. This table is where you will now adjust how much DC you want to remove for Speed Vs RPM. Now we use a math block to multiply the result value from that table back into a negative number: Now put your Math block Boost Vs Speed Vs RPM on one axis of your GP wastegate trim table and your CAN input on the other.

I think you have a trigger issue. In the no start log there are lots of areas where RPM drops to zero yet you can see from battery voltage that it is still cranking. In those areas the trigger 2 signal disappears. What does it have for triggers? Stock 4 tooth crank and 2 tooth dizzy or something else? Is it COP, wasted spark or distributor ign?

If it is the common F-body type with the plug like below, all it needs is a normal ignition switched 12V "charge lamp" connected to pin B. Or you can use a resistor instead of a bulb. The other 3 aren't needed.

It is a JST XA series connector XAP-05V-1, last time I looked they were pretty scarce with a long lead time like a lot of the electronics industry but I haven't looked recently. Try the usual suppliers, RS, Element 14, Mouser.

You can receive the Antitheft request directly via CAN. Swap one of your CAN DI's with "CAN Anti-Theft Request", then in the >chassis and body>antitheft menu set "allow CAN ANtitheft Request" to yes, and set the default state depending on whether a received 0 means run or not run.

It is not your lambda probe location that is causing the sensor life issue, it is the curse called innovate. The lsu4.9 is rated for something like 930degC continuous egt, so temp in a NA exhaust isn’t going to bother it. Innovate use the sensor in a completely different way electronically than they were ever designed to be, as soon as the sensor response slows down a little their measurement strategy which requires accurate signal timing can no longer work, so you just get the infamous error 8 or error 2. Keep your “failed” sensors as 99% of the time they won’t be and will work perfectly fine in any other controller that is not innovate.

Yeah sorry I still havent had time to set this up and test properly yet. Its still on my todo list so not forgotten. For closed loop I think if you make the AC offset 100rpm instead of 50 this should ensure that the deadband never overrides it and will probably make it more repeatable. And as KO suggested I think the AC clutch delay actually needs to be shorter so CL doesnt pull it back out before the clutch kicks in, it looks like it wants something more like 0.2/0.3s.

The doc here should give you enough info, but if you dont understand it then post back and I will try to simplify it. Page 4 for fuel level. https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/mx_series/FAQ_Sensors_MXSStrada_Alarm_LEDs_100_eng.pdf

Sorry for the delay. I have set up most of it in the files attached. Fuel level should be available in the ECU and it is being sent out on CAN, but I will need the dash config to set it up in there too. You need to update your ECU firmware to the latest (6.23) because the version you are on now doesnt have the PDM functionality in it. Your ecu also needs to be unlocked before it will run an engine. Cal table 2 is where you set up the fuel level calibration, it is set up as 0-100% at the moment, you can change it to Litres if preferred. brendan rx2 link xtreme base config V2.pclx CWS RX2.pdmc

You will need the capacitor as well, the cap and 18K form what is called an R-C filter, you need this to make the signal very slow so you dont just see the fuel sloshing around on your gauge.

Is it one of our FD plug-in ECU's?

I was just typing something similar to Vaughan. All documentation I can find for the DC5 only mentions the "dual mode" charging system as Vaughan describes where it can only do normal voltage or low voltage, but I have seen a couple of reports from users that had very high voltage with aux 8 off. They were all engine swap applications though so I assumed there must be some other model alternator. If you had the opportunity it would be really nice to know the frequency that the Hondata is using to control the alt - most modern multimeters have a frequency function if you dont have access to a scope. I believe some PWM alternators can be fussy with frequency although 250Hz seems to be most common. I think Vaughan's suggestion of trying the NB MX5 settings would be a good test. Before you do your log, can you also go to PID Setup down the bottom of the ecu settings tree and set that to Alternator control so we get a log of what the control loop is doing. BTW, if the 18V fuel cut is preventing you from testing, you can go to >engine protection>sys voltage limit and adjust it higher there.

Some comms examples for G4+/PDM here: