Adamw

Space bar is "jump to active cell", so if you had any table present on the same page it would be controlling that. Enter may be a possibility but I dont know enough about how it works. I will put your suggestion into the development system for the software guys to look at one day. Possibly you arent stopping the log? If the log is still running then the cursor will always be at the current operating instant. Hit F8 to stop the log and the table cross hair should follow the cursor right away. Otherwise I might need to see a video to get what is happening.

I would not expect IAT to prevent it from starting. In our base map the IAT error value is set to 100°C so with no sensor connected the ecu will be using that value, you can temporarily set the error value to say 40°C to make it more realistic. The Evo trigger offset should be very close to zero in my experience. I have only seen them significantly out if someone puts the trigger disc on back to front - but I doubt it would run on the stock ecu if that was the case.

They are all electrically the same. Go for suffix P or PG. Suffix D is surface mount so not really suitable without a PCB. P is through hole so much easier to work with. PG is through hole with lead free construction.

Your MAP delta and TP delta lockouts are at zero, set these to something realistic. Say about 3Kpa for MAP and 1.5% for TPS should do it.

Sounds like it is working at least. The behavior will be quite different when the manifold is glowing and generally the limitation in how aggresive you can go is how confident the driver is with the pushing effect, so you really need to see how it feels driving now.

I've passed your log files on to engineering for advice as I have no idea what is going on here. Will get back to you when I have some suggestions.

That seems odd, sounds like you have all the basics there. If you are sure there is no fuel then I would next try the injector test function to confirm you hear all injectors click. Can you do a short PC log of it cranking and attach a copy of your map. How to do a PC Log if you dont know: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Manual attached. You have to use the PC Link G4 to configure this ecu. Scroll down to the G4 section of this page, download the V4.10.2 https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/pc-link-legacy-software/ Toyota MR2 Celica ST205.pdf

It is an older G4 storm based plug-in for the Toyota SW20 or ST205. G4 is 2 generations old now, It was produced from approx 2009-2013. It doesnt have knock control and only has a couple of spare IO for adding accessories or extra sensors etc, some of the functions such as idle control are quite a bit more basic than the modern ECU's but it will still run a basic car quite well.

I have never touched one of those ecu's so cant give much advice - difficult cold start could be many things, but I would say most commonly it is tune related. Tuning aspects such as cranking enrichment, pre-crank prime etc are not optimised, possibly airflow related too - you usually need to open the idle valve more than normal during cranking to get more air and vapor moving.

Well thats not what the picture I posted above yours shows. If you have 86 connected to an Ign output, then 85 needs to go to the ignition switch, not ground.

Can you attach 1 or 2 of the log files that have the weird numbers in them. Do you think you would be able to capture it on a PC Log as well?.

What I want to know is what voltage is present on the alternator pin 2 with the ign off when not connected to the ecu. You can either unplug the ecu and check at that end of the loom or unplug at the alternator end and measure there.

I guess its a question for them in that case, I've never touched one.

Looking at their doc I would say the frame ID needs to be 2 for the fuel level frame.

That looks very much like a "ECS" ecu, they are/were made in NZ by an Ex-Link engineer. Bob Richardson is his name. I dont know if he is still doing them and dont know how to get a hold of him. You could possibly try searching the NZ Companies office for "Engine Control Systems" or "Bytespeed". Im pretty sure they only do batch fire injection, so the Link Monsoon would probably be the closest equivalent.

Yes, the VR4 plug-in doesnt have the knock input connected. It is a fairly simple soldering job to add a wire link to connect the knock if you have soldering equipment and experience I can give you the info to do it yourself. The stock CAS has both "crank" (trigger 1) and "cam" (trigger 2) signals, if you want to fit a crank sensor then you would disconnect the trigger 1 wire from the CAS and connect the crank sensor to that.

Sorry about the front plate, I agree it looks like it is the wrong one. What country are you in? - I better get the sales guys to check other stock in case it is a widespread issue. Can you give me the serial number as well. If you want the proper one you can contact [email protected] and they can will arrange to get one out to you. For the fans, I do remember the Evo5 has something a bit odd with how the fans dual windings are wired. From memory it just requires a specific combination of "active state" settings in the fan settings. Try swapping the Active state on engine fan 1 & 3 one at a time in the >Auxiliary Outputs>Engine Fan menu to see if that solves it.

I think you are going to need both expansion connectors in this case to get all you want. The 5V and sensor ground is on the "ethrottle expansion connector". You will need to splice that sensor ground into 3 - 1 for each sensor. This connector also have the 5V output so you will need to splice that into 2 for the fuel and oil press. The fuel and oil press signals go to any AN Volt. The oil temp signal goes to any AN Temp. One pin of the IAT goes to any AN Temp and the other pin connects to sensor ground.

In that drawing the relay is not even connected to the ecu? Earlier you said it was connected to an "ecu ignition wire". Can you explain better how it is connected.

The 4 bar MAP sensor elements have been obsolete for a couple of years now so are pretty hard to find. 7Bar will work but you do lose some reasolution with a 7bar on a G4+. I suspect Link would have some in stock for G4+ repairs, you can try querying [email protected] to get an idea on cost to replace it. Your lambda set up looks ok and the status shows it is waiting for the engine to start. Does it not come alive when the engine is running? I will need to see a log if thats the case.

Possibly, but there arent too many intuitive short cut keys left. You can just double click on a cell to have it apply the correction. Any suggestions for shortcut keys that would make sense? Can you give an example - you should have pink cross hairs on the table showing where it was working in the table at the exact point you have the cursor placed in the log. Not sure what you are explaining here, can you give a bit more detail.

I dont understand what you are trying to do with the 2JZ crank sensor. It is not doing anything at the moment anyway. The NZ wiring kit own its own is all you need.

Dashpot seems to vary a lot from car to car so it is difficult to give general directions. For example our subaru has a 0.3% offset whereas our LS3 has 3.0%. I give a basic rundown on how I tune it in the post here: I have made a couple of small changes to your tune, can you load this file in and do a new log with some blips. It will still need dashpot tuning but may be a better starting point. Tune24 idle tweaks.pclx

What specifically do you need help with? Nothing there looks especially different from any other engine.