Adamw

Example below would switch to boost table 2 for any switch position above 2.

Needs ign switched 12v and a high current ground (not sensor gnd). Preferably a dedicated relay that supplies power direct from battery

The individual cyl level what you use for knock control.

Attach the tune , log, and scope of it cranking.

On the negative side: At present we dont have complete built-in CAN bus support for the RX8 - we do plan to in future but it is a fair way down the priority list at present. You will find a couple of maps of mine on the forum here where I have set up the user CAN to get most of the basic dash functionality working - but there will be some functionality missing. For example I think I didnt have the ODO working on the last rally car I done. So from that point of view if yours is going to be a road car you may be better looking at a brand that has known complete OEM CAN functionality for the RX8 built-in. We dont have a built-in functionality to control the FD sequential twin turbos if that was your plan. We currently only support 2 stages of injection so that means we dont support the renesis well or the very high boost/high power rotaries where 3 stages is typically desired. On the positive side: In terms of engine control we support the REW based rotaries well and in my opinion our fuel model, staged injection blending, staged wall wetting compensation and limiters etc are more advanced than all of our consumer level competitors. We also have fuel trim based knock control which generally works better than ignition trim based knock control on turbo rotaries.

Your knock setup looks not bad. I doubt you have knock with E80 and the timing you have in there. You could experiment with frequency a bit to see if it reduces the false posatives. Try 6, 7 & 8Khz. I would also move the window start to 20 so its not catching the piston slap right at TDC.

The 3 I know of are Perfect tuning, CANChecked and BTI. All of these just use the generic dash stream and arent configurable though so I dont think you will get any better functionality. Did you talk to Gaugeart directly? I can get our product manager to follow up with them if needed. They did tell us back when testing the beta firmware that the apple approval process could be long and difficult so there may not be a lot we can do.

You can wire a 1ohm 25W resistor between 12V and the OEM ecu coil drive pin to simulate it having an ign coil connected.

If the pump pulls more than 2A you will need a solid state relay. The low cost industrial ones usually work ok if you oversize them a lot (like get a 50-100A version for a 10A pump). Or there are other options like the Holley NOS relay https://www.holley.com/products/nitrous/controllers_and_accessories/parts/15620NOS

Yes that will be fine. DI's can either be switched to 12V or gnd. If your AC switch outputs 12V when "on" then set the DI pull-up off and active level to high.

Our altezza base map should run a stock engine pretty well, just change the injector size to match what you have. The base map came from a turbo'd beams but it was low boost, stock apart from larger injectors.

Sorry, I found my mistake. I had the width set to 8 by mistake. Go to stream 4 and set width to 16. Hit apply, ok & store.

NVCS is what we call a "switched cam". VVT is for continuously variable type systems. The S15 has 2 alternate pinouts - on some models the NVCS solenoid is controlled by Aux 8, on others it may be Injector 5. So first test by setting aux 8 to "test (ON)" with the engine not running, if you hear the NVCS solenoid click then you know Aux 8 is the one to set up. If no click then try the same test in Injector 5. Test like this: When you have determined the correct output you can set its function to "CAM - switched". Usually On at 1500RPM and off at 5500RPM is a good starting point.

was the factory ECU driving the dumb coil directly, or did it have an ignitor?

So that would be fine now. But the problem is your scope showed it only going down to ~2.0V yesterday which would not be fine. So possibly an intermittent issue - or possibly you have a large ground offset when the starter motor is pulling current. If you connect your voltmeter to the neg battery post and the engine block, how much voltage drop do you see when cranking? Anymore than about 0.2V is usually considered an issue.

Ok, that would suggest the jumpers are correct. Has the AC worked recently with the factory ecu? I assume when you press the AC button you dont see any response on DI3 status? Try the self diagnostic procedure starting at page 8 in the attached document, see if that gives us any clues. AC(diag) HVAC Sys(diag).pdf

Have a look at this do to see if it helps diagnose the RS3 connection issue. https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/software/rs/FAQ_RS_Communication_100_eng.pdf If your MXG is a Link branded dash then it shouldnt need any configuration - it should work as soon as you connect and set up the ECU transmit. What ECU do you have?

If you back probe the trigger 1 pin with a voltmeter at the ecu header, then slowly turn the engine by hand, what are the 2 voltage levels you see on trig 1 pin?

Do you not think the erratic idle is just because the oem ecu no longer has control of ignition timing? Typically for engines with E-throttle you need a lot of idle ignition control for good idle.

That is just a ground offset between whatever two points your voltmeter is connected to. 0.04 is nothing to worry about. That sounds like possibly the TPS is pinned wrong. confirm using this test:

That would be the most common option unless you have a PWM capable PDM or similar.

Make sure you check whether your ecu has the 4 pin or 5 pin CAN socket before ordering the cable as it could have either depending on age.

I moved your post to the G4+ section. The IC Spray manual switch is connected to DI3, the auto side is connected to DI5. So assuming you want to use the manual side, set up DI3 as a GP input. Name it "high boost switch" or "IC Spray manual" or similar so you remember what it is for. Set up like my example below. Go to the boost control menu, multiple boost tables, set it to 2 tables and set the activation to DI3. Your boost tables should now switch with the IC switch. The IC Spray lamp is controlled by Ign drive 5. Go to Aux outputs - ign -Ign drive 5 and set it to a GP Output - again name it something relevant. Set its logic to Cond 1 only and set the SW conditon to DI value = ON, and 3 in the next field down.

The WRX6 ecu was recently updated, so you possibly have the newer 4 pin CAN connector on that ecu. In that case you will need the CANJST4 cable and you wont need to provide your own power wiring. The Link CAN lambda does not have an analog output, only CAN.

You possibly have a high DPI screen with some weird windows rescaling going on. Can you give me a bit of info about the laptop and I will ask the software guys. Suspect it may be related to this comment on the software page: