Adamw

There is very little recorded in the log so it isn't much use. But my guess is your GP RPM limit 1 is limiting RPM due to your lambda going above 0.84 when you open the throttle.

The ecu logging isnt even enabled in that map. The launch set-up appears to be ok. What does CAN DI4 status show when you press the launch button? What does Launch status show when you push the button?

This is due to a trigger error, if the ecu receives an unexpected signal from the trigger sensors then it no longer knows crank position, so it disables spark and fuel for a short time until crank position has been re-synced.

Pictures are no use to anyone, please attach a copy of your tune, a PC log of it cranking, and a triggercope capture when it is cranking.

ECCS sync is only relevant to the detection of the sync slot widths in nissan 360 CAS sensors with the older G4+ and G4 ecu's.

I dont think you have an accel enrichment problem, most of the lean bumps look to be due to incorrect CLL settings pulling fuel out during overrun, so its lean for some time while the CLL trim winds out again. There are some larger lean spikes around accel fuel events, but if anything I would say that is probably from a rich misfire rather than too little accel fuel. Neither of these are going to cause detonation. Detonation is typically caused by excessive spark advance or excessive heat in the combustion chamber. Combustion temps are cooler when you are richer or leaner than stoich. What makes you think there is a detonation issue?

The short pulse width adder looks very wrong to me, for example it is pulling 30% of the PW out at 0.75ms. I would zero that out, your PW's typically wouldn't be short enough to be operating in the very non-linear region with a ~500cc injector. Is all the other multiplex stuff working? Coolant temp, alt lamp etc?

4988mV would suggest your signal is "open circuit" - ie no resistance to ground at all. So, either the sensor is no good, or there is a wiring issue. Are you sure you are connected to the fuel level signal and not for example the "fuel reserve lamp" signal?

You would typically first tune the base DC in open loop mode, or in closed loop mode with the PID zeroed out, to get a boost curve somewhere close to the desired target. To keep it simple, start with a simple single row table with minimal cells - probably just 4 RPM breakpoints at say 2000,4000,6000 & 8000 would be enough for most. Put say 20% right across, do a pull then look at logs, adjust iteratively from there - bump it up a bit at a time until boost is flat for the whole RPM range. Keep the test pulls as similar as poss - same gear, WOT from same RPM each time etc. Once the base DC is calibrated, then you can start to add some closed loop action and tune that under stable conditions. You then will likely need to add gear and IAT trims later as you start to operate and test over different conditions.

The share permissions on the share link need to be set to "anyone with link". Share the tune also.

In the idle control function, set the speed lockout to OFF to see if it behaves any different. Do a new log and attach the tune.

Im pretty sure by default the motorsport keypads are programmed to run at 125Kbit/s and are not active at startup. If that is still the case with your one then you really need a CAN tool to reprogram those optional settings to make it usable. I vaguely remember guiding someone to try reprogramming one using the ecu before and I think we got it to work. Did blink give you a manual for it?

What ECU & what trigger mode are you using? You need the 5 tooth exhaust cam connected to trigger 2 for the K20 or K24 trigger mode to work.

I would start by setting up an empty page in PC Link with just a big digital gauge showing AN 2 & AN 4 voltages on screen so you can clearly see them. Then start bending, tugging, yanking,shaking loom etc while watching those gauges. Start around the throttle body area and its connector etc. Sometimes the terminals in the plug can lose tension or fret etc.

Not on a G4+. That is only an option with G4X or later.

One of your TPS sensors is reading incorrectly. It could be a bad connection somewhere or just one of the sensors failing. The cyan "sub" and purple "main" would typically sit just about exactly on top of each other all the time. You can see at the left end of the log they were not perfect, but a lot better, then you initially see small patches of big differences that corrects itself, then eventually it gets to the point the ECU is not happy with the difference.

My layout would be pretty similar to the ones shared here:

What ecu do you have? It looks more like an issue with the speed sensor in your log to me, the idle control is locked out most of the time as the speed is showing some exaggerated value. In the areas the idle control is active it looks like the valve is having an influence.

Attach a log and the map.

Your ignition switch/DI1 input goes inactive for a short time so the ecu kills the engine. Possibly something like a wire rubbed through somewhere and shorting to ground intermittently. Your battery voltage only sits around 12.5V most of the time in the log also, so that might hint at some wider electrical issue.

It should be dead stable up to 100C or more. I believe there was a small batch of faulty MAP sensors some time ago that would vary with temperature, but as far as I remember they were all 4bar versions. Anyhow, email [email protected] and they should be able to steer you in the right direction to get it replaced.

Attach your ECU map and dash config.

Some more detail will help. Is it a new install or has it been running the link ok previously? If a change of spark plugs stopped it from running then the first thing to confirm is if you have a spark.

Are the wires on the crank sensor the same colour as your pic shows - Black/white, black/red, black? If so then that is an old GT101DC and they arent suitable for missing tooth wheels. The alternatives which are suitable for missing tooth wheels have different colour wires - either a littelfuse 55505 which has black/red/white, or a ZF GS101202 which has blue/brown/black wires. The ZF sensor often needs a stronger pull-up wired in externally to work with high tooth count wheels, I think the 55505 is usually ok wired directly but I havent used one for a long time. Honeywell discontinued the GT101DC about 5 years ago, so I would be suspicious of anyone selling a GT101 today, likely a chinese clone/fake. I need to also confirm your cam/crank alignment is acceptable to the ecu to rule out that possibility as it is quite different to the stock pattern, but Im currently away for a few days so it will have to wait.

I think the fan speed is switched to high by the Engine fan 2 setting. Is your Engine fan 2 output status showing active?