Adamw

I think I remember one case where doing this melted an ignition coil as it was constantly charging (you could unplug the coils for first power up). If you have a COP engine then checking the coil pins as per the note below should confirm before fitting.

Yeah if it originally had 2.5L with DBW then it would likely have the WRX104 or WRX107 ecu (you need to confirm by checking the presence of the A1/2/3 pins as per the note on our webpage below). Yeah that would be what we call a "V7-9" engine and will likely have VR sensors on the cams. You will just need to change the plugs on the loom. Generally considered a much better engine than the 2.5. I dont know these engines well enough to know if the DBW throttle fits onto the V7-9 manifold so there may be changes needed there. Most of the other wiring that I can think of shouldnt need much work to fit.

Yeah it is very odd that it can move quickly in one direction and not in the other. It is nothing to do with your pedal that was mentioned earlier so forget about swapping that. I discussed your case with Simon yesterday who is our most experienced tech, like me he couldnt think of an external issue that would cause the low voltage output you appear to have here, we feel there is still possibly an ecu issue here that we missed. We looked over the testing that was done to your ecu when it came back and although extensive, there are possibly a couple of failure scenarios where the testing we done may not have loaded the outputs enough and could have missed the problem. Before asking you to send it in again, can you give us a bit more background (since you called it a project car)... Is it a matched engine/chassis/loom? ie not a DBW engine in a non DBW chassis etc? The voltage measurements that you done earlier - I assume you done at the throttle body. Can you repeat at the ecu end (you might have to use a pin or backprobe to reach the terminal. Have you tried another throttle?

This is two different subjects. This post that you are replying in was asking if inj 5 & 6 can be used for a 6 cyl engine, the answer is yes. The other post that you link to is about DI3 and Ign 4 which control the hold power circuit in the car and cant be used for other functions. There have been no changes to the Evo3 bottom board.

The factory ECU was only ever designed to work with one specific engine and with only a 2 tooth crank wheel, so they can put a massive amount of filtering and other software tricks to mask any noise. An aftermarket ecu on the other hand has to be flexible enough to work with almost any trigger system and the G4X can work with up to 200 teeth on the crank, so there are less options to mask noise. Having said that, we rarely see an issue like this on any engine, and if I think about Evo's specifically there are some fairly serious Evo drag cars around running G4X successfully. It is however difficult to diagnose an issue like this on the road with little diagnostic gear. An issue like this is much easier to solve when you can for example reproduce it in a controlled environment on a dyno with an oscilloscope connected to the triggers to see what the actual problem is. At the moment I am really just guessing it is noise, but as you say it could be a failing sensor or something else. Cam sensors are pretty prone to fail in the Evo's since they are close to the turbo heat, but Im pretty sure with G4X you can unplug the cam and it will still keep track using crank only (can you try unplugging cam sensor with engine idling to see if it keeps running) - in which case we could rule that out. Do the coil grounds connect to a good clean point on the cyl head? Do you still have the factor supressor on the coil power supply (Im pretty sure evo's had them).

Do an ecu log of it cranking. Here is a guide: https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A

Yes its the power supply for whatever CAN device you have plugged into the DTM.

Yes the crank sensor would connect to the wire nissan call the 1deg signal. And you will need a cam sensor also.

The RPM goes to zero when there is a trigger error. The ECU cuts all fuel and spark when it loses crank position to prevent damage. So this your problem, but we need to find the cause. My best guess is noise from the ignition system since all previous logs have only shown it occur at high loads, but ignition energy should reduce when you lower boost so it is bit odd you have an issue at lower boost. What is the minimum boost you can run? It really needs an experienced tuner with a standalone scope to diagnose.

What was your tech support case number - I want to have a look at the testing notes.

That JST connector is for one of our plug-in ECU's. Yes you can connect directly to the main connector. What ecu to you have?

There is nothing too unusual in either of those scopes, possibly a couple of spikes of noise but . What does it have for an ignition system? Are the spark plugs resistor type?

For injectors that big I would expect the master fuel to be much smaller, more like 5ms, so it is possibly just flooded. Can you do a log of it cranking.

There is a serial number on the ecu and on the outside of its box. If both those have been removed then you can connect to PC Link and go to >help>ecu information. They are shipped locked so that if they are lost/stolen etc they cant be used. Obviously there would be no point putting the unlock code in the box. If you contact [email protected] they should be able to get you an unlock code for it assuming the ecu was not reported stolen.

His is not a pro trigger though, it is one of the 12tooth ones that has been modified to 12-1 by cutting a tooth off.

Im not sure if it would necessarily be a sensor problem. Could be a bad connection, broken wire, loose crimp, electrical noise etc. Does it do it every pull? Only at high RPM, full boost? Can you do a triggerscope around that RPM?

What ecu do you have?

I would probably lean towards an Xtreme for the 1U. The Fury would also do it if you wanted built in Lambda. Coils would be wired in wasted spark pairs with the Fury since it only has 6 ign outputs. Wiring for the Toyota clutched throttle is in the help file, Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Analog Inputs > Throttle/Accelerator Position Sensors > Specific TPS/APS Applications > Toyota Clutched Electronic Throttle Wiring for the VVT and coils is in the help file: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoids > Specific VVT Applications > Toyota 2UZFE VVT Wiring

Does it have resistor spark plugs? In the communication settings, try swapping the port between the USB and COM (instead of auto) options, often one will be better than the other.

They are NPT, 27TPI, BSP is 28tpi. As far as I know everyone gets them from the same supplier and they used to incorrectly state they were BSP in their documentation so everyone that sold them stated the same thing. I had our documentation, packaging and website etc corrected a couple of years ago but there is possibly still some old stock incorrectly labelled floating around.

24-2 on crank, single tooth on cam.

No point in doing that, if you cant connect then the ecu is powered down. The ecu has no control over the power supply so it is not related to the ecu. Have you replaced the main relay and checked all related connections?

The most important consideration for wire in the engine bay is the temp rating of the insulation - especially in the cylinder head "valley" (where the coils go) which is generally the hottest area with no air flow etc. Some basic PVC insulated wire is only rated to 80deg C. Consider also a wire with an insulation diameter that is suitable for the wire seals you have if sealing is important. If you are in the USA, TXL is a reasonably cost effective automotive engine bay wire option, high temp, thin wall. In Europe, FLRYW is similar, high temp, thin wall. As aerace suggests the Milspec wire is a very nice option, /32 or /16 is common in motorsport. You will get away with 20awg or 0.5mm2 for all wires in most cases.

I just looked at a log from the last GTR I tuned and it has about +/-20 MAP delta at idle - pretty sure that was quite stock though. You do have an adjustable MAP filter in G4X but I think I would leave that on low and just bump the MAP lock out up. BTW, those sections in your log where all the lines go flat is due to coms dropping out or not keeping up.