Adamw

So with ignition switch on, if you ground relay pin 85 with a small piece of wire or similar, does the fuel pump run?

Pin 1 & pin 38 are connected together internally. So O2 heater runs whenever the fuel pump runs. These pins are controlled by Aux 8.

Wrong setting, you should be in >speed sources >set up. And looking at "driven wheel speed source".

Sorry I said "F terminal" previously, it is actually the "G" terminal that you want. The G terminal is originally connected to ecu pin 41. You need to ground this wire to set the alternator to low voltage mode. If you car doesnt have the IC spray function you could move the G terminal wire to ECU pin 35 (ign 5). If you have IC spray and want to keep that functional then you could connect the G wire to one of the spare auxes on the expansion connectors. You can then set up a GP output to control whatever aux you use with the conditions you want to switch the alternator off - for example TPS > 80% & RPM > 4000.

It will be in the ballpark. It will mostly make a difference at idle and very light loads, once your injector DC is above about 30% the timing makes very little difference in most cases. You can find the best injector timing at idle by shifting the timing forward or back until the richest lambda is reached, this is your optimum timing. In most cases the best EOI will be somewhere before the intake valve opens, but overlap, resonance, injector location, spray pattern and reversion effects make every engine a bit different.

Below are ignition tables from a stock JDM evo 8. They have two maps, - one called high octane and one low octane. Depending on how much activity the knock sensor has seen over time it will determine the blend between these two tables. Generally when I have looked at stock evos they knock quite a lot so will rarely be using as much advance as is shown in the "high octane" map. They will be running somewhere between the high and low octane map. The fuel tune is also very rich in stock form so you actually make better power by pulling timing out and running it leaner. The "% Load" axis corresponds pretty close with kpa MAP in general. As you can see at say 4500 & 240kpa the high octane map is down at 5 deg and the low octane is at -8.

It is an XA series.

Sorry for the slow reply, I missed this post. It looks like Aux 2 is not assigned to anything so that fault would not matter. I think the fault most likely related to something being connected to that pin that is pulling the voltage down. It wont affect anything. Your jerking is something else - is it a problem that has only recently appeared or has it always done it?

If you do have a spare aux that would be they easiest. Note you dont need to re-wire it, you can easily move the pins in the ecu plug.

If you set the main RPM limit to "3D" mode you will then get a new option to enable dual tables that can be switched using a DI. To turn any 3D table into a 2D, right click>axis set up>set one of the axes to "none".

Assuming you have the tacho function assigned to an aux output (not injector or ignition aux) then the ecu will be outputting a 0-12V squarewave. All tachos designed to be driven by an ecu would work with this signal as that is al any ecu can output.

Those coils will pull about 14A for a short time at full saturation. But unless you are running very high boost you will probably only need half of that. Remember you only have 1 coil pulling current at a time, so you only need to allow for that. So two 20awg power supply wires in parallel up to the coils, then splice out to 4 from there. i.e you want 2 x 20 AWG supplies and the 4 coil wires all in the same splice - not one 20AWG supply spliced to two coils each.

Sounds like possibly a bad ground or something and there is current passing though the temp sensor ground when some other device turns on. Can you rig it up with some temporary wiring or jumper leads etc direct to ecu, bypassing original wiring.

Launch speed disarming uses driven wheel speed, so most likely in >Chassis & Body >speed sources > setup you dont have a driven wheel speed source set up.

You will have to change the trigger settings as per below. The offset is unknown and will have to be determined with a timing light.

The main relay is all controlled by dedicated hardware on the bottom board. When the relay control circuit receives 12V on pin 56 (ignition switch), it grounds pin 27 which is the main relay coil. The main relay contacts then engage and supply 12V to pin 54 which powers up the ecu.

There are many different types of communication types used for OBD2. Most OBD2 scanners support all the common ones but it sounds like possibly the smart box doesnt support the CAN OBD2 protocol - known as ISO 15765. Your 99 WRX wouldnt have CAN so would use some other older style communication such as KWP2000. Ask the smart box vendor if they support ISO 15765.

Yes I would place the switch in the 12V supply. The main ground is often connected to a common ground plane internally for grounding other devices such as sensors etc, so if you cut the main ground you can end up pulling high currents through a sensor that wasnt designed for it.

Yes Ign 3 can be used as a normal ign output and Inj 5 & 6 can be used as normal injector drives. Inj 6 is connected to 2 pins, so make sure you only have a wire connected to one of those pins after wiring modification.

That ignition timing still looks pretty extreme for an evo to me, did the tuner have much 4G64 experience? To give you a comparison, at 240kpa, 4500RPM your ign table has 11deg advance, in the same cell in my Evo 7 I have 0.5deg, mine is very sensitive to knock around that area and definitely would be knocking its brain out at 11deg. Mine is stock compression ratio whatever that is and 98octane RON fuel.

Sorry it is not really clear what you are asking. If the CE light is being activated by the ecu then you can connect a laptop to see what fault code is causing it. For the fan, it could be anything from a wiring issue to a blown fuse to a dead fan motor. You really need to do some diagnostics to eliminate some of the possibilities.

You generally want to make it richer as load increases since cylinder pressure is higher so there is more heat and the engine is more susceptible to knock. More fuel reduces combustion temps and makes it a little safer. With a big road car engine like yours peak torque (hence peak cyl pressure) will occur at WOT around say 3-4000RPM so this is the area where it is most prone to knock and needs to be rich. Some may choose to lean it off a bit at higher RPM past peak torque but generally just a flat value across all RPM's is a good starting point. With most NA engines you will achieve best power at around 0.9 Lambda, so this is where the "12.7 AFR" came from. Note also the values in your table will only be relevant if your wide band controller is set up with a stoich ratio of 14.0. Most common ones have a default calibration of 14.7 as stoich, so stoich will always be 14.7 regardless of fuel.

Yes, unfortunately ANT4 is not connected to an externally available pin on this ecu. It will have to be a volt input with an external pull up.

You have a lot of trigger errors at high RPM. Not hugely uncommon with SR's when the optical sensor gets old the rise/fall time gets slow. The easiest fix is to replace the CAS disc with one of the common aftermarket 24 slot discs.

There is filtered 8V on Fury pin A6 designed for hall sensors, so I would connect your hall red wire to that. The black should go to sensor ground, Typically for trigger sensors the shield and the ground are spliced together near the ecu and connected to ECU pin A7. Your green and white connections are correct.