Adamw

Reduce the values in your start up step table to say 0.5% as a starting point. You may also have to reduce the values in your base position table. Basically you are commanding the throttle to open so much that the engine is reaching the over-run fuel cut RPM which cuts fuel, so then RPM drops, fuel cut is removed, RPM shoots up again etc. You should also set up idle ign control as it is really needed for good idle with E-throttle.

A hall sensor is possibly worth a try now. They typically do have more filtering in them, but I still suspect the noise is more on the ground side that the signal side. I dont think removing teeth is going to change those spikes of electrical noise we see in the scope. Kris mentioned earlier that you had an MSD version of the "IGN1A" coil? For me that is the only other potential unknown that I can come up with. I was "online friends" with Lance Nist for many years, he was the man that designed the original mercury coil and then later the improved performance version that he called the "IGN1A", The IGN1A has a rare earth magnet added to the transformer core and a bigger driver compared to the mercury one to give it more grunt. He has given me a pretty good rundown in the past on how the grounds work internally and how they they were designed to be wired externally. However I know nothing about the MSD version - I dont know if it was licensed from him or Motron etc or if it is only the foot print that is the same and nothing internally... In general I havent had much drama with MSD stuff but its just an unknown for me is all Im saying. I have certainly seen lots of drama with generic brand smart coils from China etc that have done very odd stuff like sending the full 400v primary spike back out of the trigger wire everytime there is a spark etc... So if there was any chance of borrowing some genuine IGN1A's - or even some old LS coils etc it could be worth a shot. You could also drop the dwell even further than you have as a test - the IGN1A is more powerful than most even at 2ms.

This is accel enrichment. Your TPS is bouncing between 0 & 0.2% at idle which means TPS delta is bouncing around a bit at idle - up to around 7%, so set your accel deadband to about 10%. It is probably just electrical noise, but check the throttle cable has free play just in case. I notice in your larger log file the warmup enrichment is still active up to about 90°C, but if I look at the warmup enrichment table in the tune you attached it has zeros there. Also idle was in open loop in the log but it is set to closed loop in the tune. So it looks like that tune doesnt match what was running the engine when the log was taken? With the idle in open loop you have 30deg ign timing at idle which could certainly make some cylinders unhappy.

If the fuel pump isnt controlled by the ecu then that isnt a good test anyhow. Can you attach the tune so we can see if anything is controlled by the ecu that would give us some clues if it is ecu only that has lost power or all engine devices.

Use an OR condition looking at itself. i.e One of the conditions that controls Virtual aux 1 is = Virtual aux 1 is on. So once it comes on it stays on. You would then do an AND condition stating that the reset button must be off. As soon as the reset button is presse this condition becomes false so the virtual aux will turn off. Example of both added to the over boost warning: It doesnt log these as errors. They do pop up on the top of the screen if you have a laptop connected (so the tuner knows why it was misfiring...) but they dont trigger any stored fault code or CE lamp. You could set up an aux or virtual aux with Engine limits = 1 to give a warning when any limit was touched.

Can you not hear the fuel pump? Is the fuel pressure sensor attached to the dash or ecu? If ecu is powered off it wont be sending CAN to the dash...

So does the fuel pump keep running after engine has died?

Adjust the master fuel number until it runs ok. Also check the base timing.

Drop the proportional gain down to 7.0 to see if it is happier there. 10.0 is higher than I normally see. Wouldnt hurt to update the firmware before you tune also, lots of improvements in 5.6.8

Still PID needs work by the looks. You can see the first 2 open and close movements went ok, then on the third one it lost control and went into an unstable oscillation. Can you attach the current tune, I will see if I can offer a suggestion.

It means the ecu put max DC to the motor but it didnt reach fully open. Possibly means the PID still isnt close enough. If you have already calibrated throttle you dont need to do this again. Do us another log and I will check

Effectively yes, you have 4 falling edges at 180deg intervals. This is actually a very common bosch cam pattern used by GM, Ford, Mazda, VW, Honda etc.

This cam pattern should work with "Holden V6 VVTi" VVT mode.

Does the engine run? What trigger mode are you using? Would need to see a triggerscope to confirm VVT options. You can do a trigger scope capture in >ecu controls>trigger scope.

Would need to see a log after the change, definitely dont think it would be drivable as it was. Might be similar to the EvoX one:

>Idle Speed Control>Idle Up tables>startup Step table is adding 10% extra throttle for start up. More typical values for this table with E-throttle would be maybe 1 or 2% at the cold end and 0.5-1% and the warm end.

Looks usable now. May still need further PID tuning, but it is in the ballpark.

It would be pretty obvious if only the ECU had powered down - Anything connected to an AUX would be ON full time - fuel pump CE light etc. So if fuel pump isnt still running when this happens it means it is not just the ecu that has lost power - but everything on the Ign/ECU circuit.

Can you also give us a pic of your connection settings in PC Link (options>connection), and also a pic of your device manager with comports and USB sections expanded out like my example below.

Injection timing doesnt matter - engines with batch fire or even single point injection with no injection timing still start ok. Spark could certainly be an issue but you will need a timing light on it when it wont start to confirm that. Ideally for this test you would pull a timing belt cover off and paint a TDC mark on a cam pulley so you can confirm it is sparking not only at the correc t crank angle but also on compression stroke, not exhaust stroke. If you only check on the crank it may be syncing 360deg out but the timing would still look correct.

DFI Module pin C - connect to Link Trig 1. DFI pin F - Not connected DFI pin B (bypass), connect to Link 5V pin. DFI pin A connect to Link Ign 1. DFI Pin L to Link pin A7 (Shield/Gnd). DFI pin P to +12V. DFI pin K to Ground. 2 x crank sensors connected to DFI module pins N, M, J, H, G, as per factory wiring. ECU settings: Trig mode Multi tooth. 18 teeth, multitooth postn crank. Hall/opto, pull-up on, rising edge Trig 2 sync mode None. Ignition mode distributor, spark edge falling. Dwell table: Be aware you cant use ignition cut for rev limiting with the GM ign module.

I would pull it out of the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of little jumper leads or similar, then try connecting. This will at least eliminate all possible power issues - the fuel pump running continuous would possibly suggest the ecu isnt powered up. The easiest way to power up is via the barrel shaped TVS diode as shown below. Connect 12V to the stripped end and ground to the other.

Can you swap #1 & 2 coil, leads and plugs. Have you squirted water all around the manifold, injector holes etc to confirm no leaks?

Was that trigger scope taken when the engine wouldnt start? I would bump the arming thresholds up a little as there is a little bump in the cam waveform that shouldnt be there, could possibly be counted as an extra tooth. Try something like this:

Your attachment is not available. Can you upload again. I need both the tune and a log.