Adamw

Assuming you have a ST205X ecu as noted in your profile, the easiest way to connect an IAT is to the original "air box temperature" sensor wires.

Correct, there are no CAN pins on the factory header as the car didnt have a CAN bus factory. You will need a CANJST4 cable or make something similar yourself if you have the capability.

JST XA series

Yeah, would likely work with 1JZ trigger mode. If not the generic multitooth/missing mode with the cam window sync method will handle that. VVT will be fine.

I just done a quick test on the bench, when you do "clear fault codes" the auxes go to 95% DC for a short time. So that possibly explains that, but the question is why do your cams need so much DC - they normally start moving at about 36%. With our default PID settings for the EZ30 mode the max the ecu will command is 60% which is what is showing in your logs. 60% is normally way more than it needs to smash the cam against the mechanical stop at full speed. So it suggests possibly oil pressure is low or the oil viscosity is incorrect. You can set the PID set up to "custom" and increase the max clamp to 100% if you like, but something is mechanically wrong for it to need that.

With Ign on, engine off, if you change aux 1 function to "Test PWM" and frequency to 10Hz, do you hear the LH solenoid clicking? Then same test on Aux 2. The cam position appears to be showing real position and the log show the ecu sending max duty to the solenoids, but no movement on the cams.

Ok that looks like it is all happy and seeing cam position correctly. Can you now do a PC log with cam angle test off, engine warmed up and a few revs.

There are base maps in PC Link that will allow the engine to start and run with minimal set up, but it will need proper tuning before it can be driven hard.

I noticed in your map the tuner has two boost solenoids set up, one on Aux 1 and one on Aux 8. This will likely cause problems. You need to work out which aux your solenoid is connected to and turn off the other one. To work out which one it is connected to you could set each aux to "Test (pwm)" and the solenoid should click if you have the right one.

Can you do another log of a couple of revs with the VVT cam angle test set to Inlet LH. Please do a PC log and attach the .llg file rather than a csv

God knows, but the zero noise on the scopes when the sensor is unmounted suggests the wiring is ok and the issue is something related to the sensor or mechanical/mounting. Maybe the earlier rubbing damaged it internally? Hard to imagine since inside they are just a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core but something fishy is going on there and I have seen stranger things happen. Im pretty sure they are only a cheap chinese sensor too so could have even been bad from the start... One of our engineers has that same kit on his RB and it gives a good waveform.

Can you attach the actual log file and a copy of the tune.

There is definitely still large spikes coming through on the trigger. My feeling is it is still a small amount of the ignition current that is for some reason finding the path back to the battery easier by going through the sensor ground rather than via the main power ground. ie resistance of sensor ground to battery is less that engine block to battery. Is there a ground cable all the way from the battery to the engine - or is it using chassis for some of it?

When the Nissan CAS's start to give drama at high RPM it is usually the optical part of it getting slow, so as RPM gets higher the width of the slots that the ecu sees effectively get shorter and shorter until the count falls outside of the tolerance. The easiest fix is usually just to replace the disc with one of the after market 24 slot discs. Sometimes fitting a stronger pull-up resistor will help with the stock disc.

Ok, is there any evidence the sensor was rubbing on the wheel? Did you check air gap? Does the metal ring inside the bolt hole have any continuity to either of the sensor wires?

That triggerscope shows nothing. Are you sure it is the right file? Did you click capture when the engine was cranking?

Mostly looks ok to me. I would lower the arming thresholds a bit to the examples below to make it a bit more robust but it looks like it has everything it needs to run. Possibly plugs are fouled, rotaries can be a bit sensitive when the tune is a fair way out. Looking at our FD map we have the master fuel at 14ms (has 850primaries) so perhaps drop yours to 12-14 so it doesnt have too much fuel dumping in there. Make sure you change that timing split table to negatives too.

Yep trailing split is normally negative for the FD engine. Thats not going to stop it running though.

I wanted sensor still plugged in, just pulled out of the bracket so it wasnt pointing at a trigger wheel.

Ah, didnt realise it is a wire-in ecu. Polarity is correct in your scopes. Cant quite see in the pic clearly enough, but the braided shielding has been cut off at the grey plug right? Can you unplug the ecu A connector and measure resistance between Pin 7 &8 in the plug - you might need to poke some paperclips or similar in the holes if your multimeter probes dont fit. Its almost like starter current is passing through sensor ground or something... Can you also do a triggerscope with the engine cranking, but with the sensor pulled out of the plate so it is just hanging in free air - this may prove if the noise is coming from the starter.

Yeah something very wrong here, not sure what though. Can you explain the wiring better - from memory the sensor that came with the YelshaD kit that we tested wasnt shielded. The new sensor should connect to pin 2 & 4 in the original Nissan CAS plug. From memory on the Nissan side of the plug the trig 1 wire is Green & Yellow and the ground is black.

For a copy of the map, with PC link connected to ecu & online, go to >file>save as. it will give you a file with a .pclx extension - this is your map. For the triggerscope you need to click the capture button when the engine is already cranking. That one above looks like you clicked the button before cranking. The trigger is actually working better in that latest log. Still need to see the triggerscope and map to give some feedback.

Yep, looking better now. The idle base position table needs a bit of work now. To do this log a cold start and keep logging untill fully warm, then look back at what idle position was required for each temperature and use that to update your base position table. You only have 40-50°C in that log above. But start with something like below will be much closer: I would increase the idle integral gain to 0.5 also.

It can be either an air distribution issue as you mention where the air favours one side more than the other - or a "charge robbing" effect when you have 2 adjacent cylinders on the same side which are also next to each other in the firing order. So the 2nd cylinder is trying to pull air/fuel from the same part of the plenum that the first cylinder just took the air /fuel from. On the 1U (and SB chevy) this is Cyl 5&7, they normally run leaner than the others.

You will need a wideband controller if you want to connect a wideband. You can connect a narrowband direct to the ECU but they are not much use for tuning.