Adamw

Sorry Im not ignoring you, just busy as and havent had time to give this some proper thought. Ill try to get back on here tonight or tomorrow.

Trigger mode should be set to multi-tooth by the looks, you dont have any missing teeth.

Most modern injectors will work down to a minimum effective PW of around 0.2ms.

It is illegal for the non original certified vehicle ecu to broadcast emissions readiness messages.

It uses the crank wheel for timing, but I wouldnt just trust that is correct as all manufacturers have engineering tolerances. The offset will be close to zero on most. My Evo VII offset is -1. If you are missing a timing mark then paint your own mark on.

7kHz works well on my evo VII.

That cam position sensor looks to be in about the right place so I think your offset should be close enough for a spark to be able to make it out of the distributor. And it should spark in test mode so that also suggests your no spark issue is no related to incorrect offset. If it is not the coil then the most likely culprit is the ignitor, this is the this electronic module inside that the coil -ve wire goes to. So swap that if you have a spare.

Rant time... That is just innovate being innovate. They used to also spit out the very robust NTK and LSU4.2 sensors at the same rate in the old days when they used to work with those sensors before the LSU 4.9 was even invented. They control the sensor completely differently than it was ever designed to be controlled so the controller is very sensitive to sensor response time. The founder Klaus was a very smart guy that invented this new measurement strategy which gave very fast response and made control cheap/easy at a time (20years ago) when wideband controllers were a very expensive tuning tool not affordable for consumers. You can read his patent here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US6978655. But when Klaus sold up shortly after the first LC1 was released their wideband controllers never got any improvements or fixes since. Every innovate controller produced since is just a copy/paste and has the same issues the first ones had 20 years ago. As soon as the sensor ages a little or gets too hot or too cold, the innovate will report it as Error 2 or 8 and innovate will tell you the sensor has "failed". It has not failed and will still work on any other LSU4.9 controller that uses proper control. With Innovate controllers it is generally not thermal shock as per the NZEFI article. So dont throw away any sensors the innovate tells you have "failed" until you try it on a non-innovate controller - 99% of them wont be failed. You can tell Im not a fan - my old boss used to have 8 of them on his engine dyno. We used to go through 8 sensors about every 2 full dyno days there. I still have a filing cabinet full of his "failed sensors" - I'll go through about 2 a year on my dyno - and that is usually only because I drop it. You certainly could, but if it is only 2-5% at low RPM I personally wouldnt bother.

With the resistor in place the deadtimes will likely be quite wrong. It wont be noticeable when everything is relatively stable as the deadtime error will just be "baked in" to the fuel map. But if for example battery voltage changes (ie headlights of fan turns on) then the incorrect deadtimes arent going to compensate for that as well as they should. If you remove the resistor you will likely need to retune the fuel table. You wont do any damage to ecu or injector - just higher risk that all operating conditions wont be compensated for well.

With no CAN the controller should switch the heater on after 15 seconds to try to protect the sensor. So it should be at least pretty warm to the touch after 10mins. So it suggests there is no power. Can you check power supply by backprobing with pins or similar the Lambda side of the DTM4 connector - like my pic below. I have for example seen some people assemble the DTM wrong so the terminals push back out and lose contact when you click the plug together.

Yeah you have an older G4+ ecu. There is nothing wrong with your CAN set up in the ECU, but there are odd CAN errors showing in the runtimes. Form error and Stuff error usually means something on the bus is not following the rules. Im suspicious maybe the dash is broadcasting a message out on one of the ID's that the CAN lambda uses - so they are clashing. Unfortunately I dont have a racepak dash to test and their documentation has always been very lacking. Is your dash the IQ3 street with the 34pin connector on the back?

If the sweep is working then that would indicate the tacho is happy with the 12V pulse signal.

I have seen for example the terminals in the injector plug loose spring tension and fret, then make bad contact. Or a bad crimp, or fatigued wire etc.

Sorry, the question is still not translating well. If your ecu is damaged it can likely be returned to Link for repair. If you want to buy a new ecu then you need to do that through a dealer: https://www.linkecu.com/dealers/dealer-network

They will be very slow - if they even open at all. If it does actually run then manufacturers or typical deadtimes will not be even close.

With CAN plug at ecu end unplugged, but ign on and CAN lambda powered up (engine not running), is the sensor getting hot?

Have you set base timing? Try the offset around -100

Can you pull the CANPCB cable out of the ECU, Leave the complete CAN loom plugged in to the CANPCB. Unplug the CAN Lambda. Measure continuity from the green pin at the DTM connector to the green wire in the white JST plug at the ecu end, then do the same with white and also check for continuity between white and green.

I cant quite tell from those photos. Are you sure you are on pin 3 & 4? This pic is looking down the wires towards the solder cups:

Looks like according to the manual the fuel pump can be on Aux 5 or Inj 5 or possibly Inj 6. Have you tried all 3?

Yep, you dont get a popup in G4+.

No plans in the near future, it is not one that has been requested much.

I have PM'd you info.

Also make sure you pull the sensors out of the exhaust and do a free air calibration on them. You cant swap sensors on an innovate controller without redoing the calibration everytime. And there is no guarantees it was correct in the first place.

"Limit Flags Word" is a good one to log also.