Adamw

Can you give us a copy of the tune and a trigger scope at idle. Is the trigger wheel etc a commercially available kit or DIY?

Accel enrichment is adding 60% to the primary since you just stabbed the throttle. So we can probably drop the accel clamp at higher rpm to prevent that from "stealing" too much available DC. I made a few small changes in your map below. Do another log with this. amendedmap3.7.2022.pclr

The log has very little recorded. Next time you need to go to >logging>setup logging> PC log, then hit the "add all" button down the bottom. The whining noise is normal. The oscillation is just your PID needs tuning. Try proportional around 7.00, Integral 0.10 and derivative 30.00

Looks like your got too much derivative gain I would say. What throttle body is it? Try halving the derivative to see if that settles it down.

You will need to attach a log and the tune.

Your map shows you are on old firmware - 6.19. Vcam with Nissan CAS wasnt supported until 6.20. So you need to update. Current firmware is 6.22.

Yep standalone scope will be good. Set it up to trigger off the cam tooth in auto mode so the crank waveform will be constantly updated but will appear static on screen

Looks like the log was stopped halfway through the cal. Can you do it again and attach a copy of the current tune again.

Most of our base maps (except for the modelled mode ones) are just generic, they arent based on any specific injector size or fuel pressure. You just adjust the master fuel value until the air fuel ratio is in the ballpark

In your diagram relay 2 pin 85 is already connected to switched 12V supply. All you need to do is connect relay 2 terminal 86 (black wire) to the ecu aux instead of the hobbs switch.

I dont personally have injector data for those, but "running rich" is unlikely related to deadtimes as generally provided the battery voltage is reasonably stable the deadtime will be a relatively static value.

Yes, provided that relay turns off at the same time as the ecu is turned off. Your google drive link is restricted, you need to right click on it and go to share and set it to "anyone with link" or something like that.

Not all of the AC step is removed when AC is turned off, this is because generally your AC step is larger than it needs to be to quickly increase torque, this results in the RPM increasing above target, then over a few seconds the closed loop will remove some steps to bring idle back to target. I think it is around 65% - so for example if AC step is 20, then when AC is switched on the idle position will have 20 steps removed, when you turn AC off the idle position will have 13 steps added back on.

That diagram is for a wire-in ECU which has a pin labelled "+14V Aux 9/10", this powers the H-bridge circuit inside the ecu. In you case with a plug-in ECU the power supply has all been done internally so you dont need the relay and you dont have a "+14V Aux 9/10" pin. You need Aux 9/10 outputs to drive the motor, 2 analog inputs for 2 x TPS and 2 analog inputs for 2 x pedal sensors. So 4 inputs, 2 outputs.

Yeah I agree, Im pretty sure it is on the to do list. I will check again and put a bit more weight on it if I can. It will likely only be done in G4X software though.

As I said above the ecu switches the ground for the relay on and off, not the 12V side. The 12V for the relay needs to come from the ignition switch or similar. You would use Aux 8 to switch the relay ground on/off.

You cant completely swap the whole calibration on the fly, but you can easily switch between or blend between various tables. For example you can have 2 fuel tables, 2 ignition tables, 2 boost tables, etc, and either switch between them or blend the two tables together based basically anything you like - it might be boost, TPS, a switch on the dash, water injection status etc.

Sounds like it is ok. If you do find a drained battery one morning then this is the first thing I would suspect.

It doesnt look like you have done the vvt calibration so the ecu doesnt know where to look for teeth on the cam. Run the engine at fast idle above RPM and ECT lockout, set Cam angle test to "calibrate", cam angle test will turn itself off after a few seconds if successful. Do us a triggerscope so we can confirm the cam sensor is the correct polarity too.

What do you mean by "they arent assigned correctly"? They would just fire in the sequence that is in the firing order table based on crank position reported by the CAS. If you do the injector test/Ignition test do the correct injectors/coils fire? You have probably used up your upload allowance so you can share your files with dropbox/google drive/ondrive/wetransfer or similar.

There is nothing obvious in the log that I see. What spark plug gap are you running? I would turn off closed loop lambda temporarily as a test as it is very rich in some areas, it may need some work on the fuel table but hard to get a good feel where the rich issues is coming from with CLL on.

All those scopes look ok, but I suspect they just havent captured the exact moment it has occured. I would expect to see something pretty obvous in the scope with the severity of the erratic RPM in some patches of the log. Can you do a few more scope captures around the RPM or whatever it is most likely to occur at. You may have to upload to google drive or similar if you run out of upload allowance on the forum. Has trigger 1 filtering always been at level 4? Can you drop it to level 1.

Set low to 0.0 and high to 5.0, this will disable the error override. Then look at what voltage reads. It should be close to 5V with sensor unplugged and 4ish volts with sensor plugged in but cold.

The problem is not the aux, but the fact that the AC relay is connected directly to the battery so is live all the time. If it is still powered like this it will still back feed. It needs to be connected to an ignition switched source.