Adamw

Since the factory one didnt work on pin 37 either, then the first thing I would do is remove that original wire - it is possibly shorted to ground or something. .

If the AFR is correct in the same cells when driving normally that it operates in when on the launch limiter then your AFR will be correct during launch also.

Can you attach the native log file (.llgx file).

Melted plug electrode is generally pre-ignition. With detonation you will generally break things before you melt things, but in some cases if you have relatively strong internals (forged pistons etc) they will handle the mechanical impact of the detonation for long enough that it can generate enough heat in the combustion chamber to cause pre-ignition so the damage is done by the pre-ignition but the root cause is detonation. Pre-ignition is something causing the mixture to ignite before spark has occurred and can generate extreme heat since the combustion energy is not all going in to expansion. Pre-ignition is most often caused with lean mixtures under high load, or when there is something "glowing" in the combustion chamber such as a wrong heat range spark plug, lack of coolant around the spark plug/chamber or something like a fire ring on the head gasket that is too small and hanging into the chamber. On older engines it can be carbon deposits etc but since yours is fresh you can rule that one out. Or as mentioned earlier heavy detonation can cause it also. Was it running ethanol or petrol? Were the injectors new? What sort of power was it making before this happened? The ignition timing in your map is pretty extreme for an evo - generally you are well down in the single digits by 20psi on petrol - was that a prove ignition table or something new?

Assuming it is a naturally aspirated engine I would put 12.7:1 in all the red cells and 13.4 in the blue cells. For the lower load cells at 4000-7000 I would just carry the same value right across that you have in the 3000 column.

Correct. If you want to switch to ground you just enable the pull-up in the DI settings.

The F terminal is not connected on our plug-in as it generally causes more issues than it solves having the battery voltage suddenly drop when you are at full power. But if you want to do it you will have to shift that wire or connect a spare aux to it.

Yes table is correct now. Yes There should already be boost solenoid wiring in the engine bay. Otherwise the egr solenoid, ignition coils or ecu pin 38 or 47.

AFR is irrelevant when you have a limiter working. You cant measure AFR when there are cylinders full of oxygen (no combustion) pumping through the engine and exhaust.

All the shifts in your log are showing as "driven upshift". This is due to a couple of reasons; DI4 is one of the conditions for your downshift - but it is also the condition to request an upshift. So when the ECU sees DI4 it is ambiguous whether it is for an upshift or downshift. You probably got away with it in older firmware due to something like the order in which each shift type was assessed. The drive/overrun source is looking at the TPS, so when you manually blip the throttle the TPS goes above your drive/overrun TPS so it is considered a driven shift. This will probably work correctly when the ECU is doing the blip rather than your foot, but since you have E-throttle I would change the source to APS. Change your upshift digital input and do it with a virtual aux similar to your downshift, but brake must be off. Example below.

-20 or -30 would be a more typical ignition trim. The rest of it looks ok as a starting point. You may have to set the limiting advanced mode on if it needs a more aggressive limiter.

switch to 12V, 5V, or gnd is fine.

They said they were going to send me a beta to test when it was ready so I dont think it is done yet.

Yes, that is what I was suggesting. Perhaps my wording could have been better.

Most nissan speedo's expect an AC signal from a VR sensor (speedo would originally had a 2 wire sensor connected), rather than a square wave that an aux would generate. You can try this circuit:

Polarity is correct now. Yes it does look a bit noisier than expected. Sometimes they look a bit crappy during cranking but lear up when running. Looks similar to what this guy had, but not sure on what he found:

Yeah 25ms master is unusually high for 750cc injectors based on the rest of your set up. I would generally expect it to need about half that. So it suggests you are getting much less than 750cc of flow - either the injectors are smaller than you believe or something like the fuel pressure is very low. Maf is not being used in the fuel calc.

E-throttle motor needs to be connected to Aux 9 & 10. Flex fuel sensor needs to be connected to a Digital input, not analog. Boost solenoid should be connected to ign switched +12V on one side and aux on the other. You need Aux 9 for the E-throttle so you will need a different aux for the boost solenoid - usually Aux 7 on the S13.

Sounds like there is little to no voltage change reaching the analog input pin. Most likely a wiring issue. Hit F12 to open the runtimes screen and go to the analog tab, you can see the raw voltage there. I would expect to see at least say 3V change from open to closed.

Sensor is wired wrong polarity, swap the +/- wires and it should be closer to working. The rest of the setup looks ok.

one clutch pin needs to be connected to an ignition switched 12V source, the other to an aux.

It looks like you have a reluctor cam sensor but it is set to opto/hall. Can you set trig 2 to reluctor and do another trigger scope. For the injectors you would want to wire both inj drive 1 & 2 to injector 1 and drive 3&4 to inj 2.

APS and TPS can go to any spare analog inputs, you assign them in the e-throttle settings. The motor must use aux 9 & 10. The Clutch can use any spare aux, injector or ignition drive. Set the "e-throttle relay output" to whichever aux you wire to the clutch.

I think possibly too much fuel. Drop the master fuel number by say 30% and try again.