Adamw

Nah I dont see anything obvious, there is a jump in MAP and consequently inj PW right on the 6min mark but after that it is pretty stable. Is it more stable if you richen it up?

I wouldnt expect the injector data would have a big effect provided battery voltage is reasonably stable. I noticed the injector timing it pretty odd also, again it may have been the tuner playing with things trying to improve the problem, but a more typical injector timing would be 360-400BTDC.

Static voltage would suggest the pinout is wrong. I have seen some mitsi wiring diagrams that have the numbering reversed compared to what is molded on the connector so the first thing I would try is reverse the pinout - ie swap position 6 with position 1.

Looks normal to me. Usually the voltage span on one sensor is half the span of the other sensor. Swap the tp main and sub as its better to have the larger range as the main but that wont make any difference to the control. If its oscillating then you or your tuner need to tune the PID.

Your accel enrichment looks way over done to me. I rarely see accel enrichment values more than about 40% on a single throttle engine, you have like 150%... It is unknown what the tuner has tried though and how he arrived at those numbers. There are some very odd dramatic changes in your fuel tables too that will possibly make tuning accel difficult.

The stock sensor is a 13Khz narrow band, but you still get noise coming through at other frequencies. 7 or 8Khz usually works well on evos, I have mine set to 8. Below is a frequency spectrogram from an evo, (taken from the Motec SKM manual), you can see the difference in energy level between background noise and knock is much more distinct at 7K than it is 13K:

Yes, just put gear on 1 axis of your base DC table. Or if you want more control variables you can switch between 3 different base tables, say have 1 for 1st & 2nd, change to table 2 for 3rd & 4th and table 3 for top gear.

The most common mistake I see with new users is not taking advantage of keyboard shortcuts and the layouts/pages and creating custom pages that match how they work. I suggest start by going to >layouts>load layout and load either the 768*1366 or the 1920*1080 one depending on your screen res as these are a good starting point. Then go to >help>keyboard shortcuts and learn a few of the common ones. Some common ones I use as examples: F2 to save, F3 to connect, F4 to store, F8 to start/stop logging etc. K to swap between tabular or surface view, M for quick trim, Ctrl Z to undo last change, Space bar to jump to active cell, [ and ] to move between pages, etc. These will greatly speed up your tuning and satisfaction. Also I generally like to keep the ECU settings tree pinned out - but that has both pros and cons. Also, this is an old video so a few things have changed to give more options for table views, but this will help you understand how to have multiple copies of the same table open: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs

Yes to both questions. If the AEM gauge has a separate "analog ground" then it would be best to connect this to an ecu sensor ground also.

Yes the toyota clutched throttle works fine. Set up and wiiring info is in the help file: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Analog Inputs > Throttle/Accelerator Position Sensors > Specific TPS/APS Applications > Toyota Clutched Electronic Throttle Its actually fully DBW, it only switches over to cable operation when the ecu puts it into limp mode (disables the clutch).

On the evo 9 ecu the ignition outputs 3 & 4 are originally used for the fuel pump and fan. So you need to shuffle a few wires around to move the fuel pump and fan to spare outputs to free up ign 3 &4. Then run new trigger wires from ecu up to coil 3 & 4. Be aware however in a typical performance road car engine there is not a lot to gain from going to direct spark Vs wasted. It is not until you get up to quite high RPM (~9000+) that wasted spark may start to be a restriction. Coils may run a bit hotter and therefore give a shorter life when used wasted compared to direct spark, but thats really the only negative.

Really need to see the actual log to get enough detail, but by eye the inj PW looks stable (ie fuel flow per intake event is stable), provided RPM & MAP is stable (air flow is stable) then you would expect a stable lambda. Possibly a little on the lean side so you have intermittent incomplete combustion events on the leanest cyl. Remember the Lambda is the average of all cylinders, you can potentially have 3 that are 5% richer than average and 1 that is 15% leaner...

Notice that with your charge temp approximation at 0% the lambda is heading leaner as charge temp increases. Whereas in the lower pic with the charge temp approximation at 100% the lambda is heading richer as the charge temp increases. So your correct value is somewhere between these two examples. This is because in the first test for your 20°C rise of IAT the approximated charge temp has risen also by 20°C. Based on rough ideal gas law numbers the ecu would remove about 8% fuel for this 20°C rise. In the second test, you have a similar 20°C rise in IAT, but this time because your charge temp is biased more towards coolant your charge temp has only raised by about 9°C, so the ecu would have removed only about 3.5% fuel. I cant see the numbers well enough but it looks like the lambda in the first test increased by about the same amount as the lambda decreased in the second test, so your correct value is probably somewhere about half way between these two. Yes it is a pain in the arse that changing the charge temp approximation messes up the fuel map, but there is really no way around that.

It should be provided the G4+ was not a real early one. It looks like the last major change on the GTR adaptor board happened around 2016. Check they both have "NGTR V1.5" on the adapter board. The MAP sensor has changed to 7bar but is still physically the same footprint/location.

B5, B6 or B7 was the original cam and crank sensor grounds. You can splice them all together or do them seperately, no advantage either way electrically. BTW, the pinout in the G4X manual is a bit more complete than the G4+ one, so you may find that helpful. Copy here: http://linkecu.com/documentation/TS2JZX.pdf

Be aware the sensor will only have 5 wires coming out of the sensor side of the connector but you still need all 6 wires connected to ecu. And you must keep the original plug, you cant change it to some other type of generic connector for example.

I think "DSM" is a USA only thing, so no one else in the world would know what you are talking about. Can you give us some pics? Have you already broken the extension bit off the bottom board PCB?

Sounds like possibly you parameter config is messed up. Q/A/Pgup/PgDwn all work ok for me. Do you have a lot of the parameters showing red warnings on your screen?

No only LSU4.9 unfortunately.

You can try it, I have no personal experience. But from the explanation above it sounds like the inner cylinders will be very rich and the outers will be very lean.

If you want to do a bottom board swap then contact [email protected] for a quote and return instructions.

10-12 teeth on driveshaft would be more than enough - equivalent of about 40-50teeth on the wheel which is all OEM's use for ABS, TC and DSC

If Allow CAN antitheft is off and there is no antitheft DI assigned then the antitheft status will just show whatever was last left in that memory location so is not relevant. "Engine Kill" will be active if there is anything ECU wise attempting to prevent start up.

Probably the best option you have is set the RPM limit to 3D mode. Then if you want just a simple launch/two step you can just put the launch switch or conditions on one axis of the main RPM limit table. Otherwise if you want more complex launch like wheel speed or timer based, then use the 2nd table and use the launch switch or conditions to switch between the 2 limit tables.

Should be falling edge for multitooth mode. But once you have the correct crank signal you will likely be able to use one of the proper LS1 triggermodes which will give faster startup than multitooth. I think the LS1 modes use rising edge. Dont think so, waveform looks ok in terms of voltage etc. Seems more hardware related.