Adamw

It seems there is a mismatch between sensor and wheel that is generating the wrong pattern. The original LS* 24X was two pressed steel wheels like below side by side. I cant remember exactly how the sensor works, but it is effectively 2 sensors side by side, but only one signal output back to the ecu. From memory depending if both sensors saw a tooth or only one saw a tooth would determine if there was an output or not. It could be an alignment issue or it could be that the callies wheel is designed to use the 58X sensor instead (58X sensor is a single row sensor).

If its reading 2000RPM with no signal then you are going to need to fix it first.

Port injection on a siamese port engine needs to be sequential (needs a cam sensor). If you dont want to use the cam sensor you would be better to go for single point injection. Rather than explain it all myself, i've copied this info from a megasquirt guy: So MPI needs sequential and very big injectors, a maximum of about 20-25% duty cycle. You need to pair up the injector drives to get injection timing that looks like this:

Ok, sorry I wasnt paying as close attention as I should have been... There is something wrong with the crank signal. In your scope I have marked each falling edge with a small pink dash. As you can see there are 35 falling edges per crank rev, there should only be 24. The 24X wheel is a weird two row wheel and the matching sensor actually has two sensors inside and one subtracts "teeth" from the other. So it seems either that crank sensor is failed or the wrong one so some of the teeth arent getting "subtracted"..

Try this one. amendedmap7.7.2022.pclr

No, all the ecu needs is an edge that rises above 1.5V and falls below 1.0V, which looks good in your scope. Since I dont see any obvious reason why the multitooth option isnt happy, can you try this: Change trigger mode to Subaru V1-6, store and power cycle. The rerason for this is changing to a completely different mode like this causes a re-initialisation of all trigger code and settings. Then change back to Multitooth mode, 24T, cam pulse 1X sync mode, falling on both trig 1 & 2. Store & power cycle again. Then try cranking, If still no good like that can you do us a short log of it cranking and another trigger scope.

You can wire them in. I would probably just leave the IAT off if it is drivable now.

I dont really see any reason for it to be running rough. The dwell is quite stable so that is generally a good sign it is getting nice repeatable timing between teeth on the crank wheel. In the 5000RPM scope there is still a little spike of electrical noise in one spot just as you blipped the throttle, but it is either not big enough or doesnt cross zero so it doesnt look like it has caused any issues. Its going to need a bit more testing to see if the trigger issue really is solved. I can see it looks like it jerks or "bunny hops" in a couple of areas but I dont see any real reason for that, usually it is ignition timing related but yours looks reasonably stable. Potentially accel fuel is a little to sensative.

Did you try the LS1 5-10 mode and LS1 3-12 mode? The 5-10 is the most common, but your crank tooth spacing looks more like the 3-12. But I do notice your cam tooth is in a different place than normal, about 80deg advance compared to expected LS1 so the LS1 modes may not work. I dont really see an obvious reason why your existing set up as multitooth, with 24 falling edges wouldnt work though. Possibly the trig 2 rising edge is a bit close, trig 2 falling edge looks better.

unfortunately G4X is too different to do an automated conversion, you have to do it manually and make some decisions along the way. The easiest way is to open G4+ and G4X softwares side by side in a split screen, then start at the top of the ecu settings tree and work your way down. Nearly all tables (fuel/ign/cold start etc) can just be exported/imported between the two. It takes about 20mins to convert a map. Ignition is mostly the same. Fuel has quite a few new options and the accel fuel has changed quite a bit. Stuff like idle control and most PID loops are very different and will have to be tuned from scratch. Assignment of inputs and outputs etc is quite different but makes sense once you have figured it out.

Does it look happier in device manager now? Is there an entry in both com ports and Universal Serial Bus categories now?

So what happen if you run the _X64.exe?

You dont need to connect a boost gauge since the ECU already knows that. There are 4 spare AN Volts on one Expansion plug, so 3 of these could be used for the wideband, oil temp and press. The Ethanol sensor will work better connected to a DI and the IAT will be easiest with an AN Temp input. The DI's and AN Temp are on the 2nd expansion connector so you will need another XSL for those.

Mode in ECU CAN set up should be set to "Transmit Generic Dash", not "Transmit User stream 1" like your pic shows. The rest looks correct.

600543 would be the ECU serial number. I suspect the "PCB serial" you are quoting is probably the adaptor board. The correct serial number should be on a sticker on the topboard and should match what is in PC Link. You will have to give this to the dealer to generate the unlock. For the USB drivers, if you go to C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers and run the ***_X86.exe or ***_X64.exe depending on if you have 32bit or 64bit windows, does the install complete and you get the green ticks like below, or does it give some error?

There is no way to do drag race style power management or "traction control" in G4+. This is a function that has been added to G4X, but I cant think of anyway to achieve something similar with the functions available in G4+.

In general the frequency of an ABS type wheel will exceed the limit of the G4+ digital input at high speeds. A VR or hall effect sensor will both work, but I suspect that one you have pictured is a special magnetoresistive type which are quite difficult to make work with any aftermarket ECU. So you might be better to find some other option.

There is a Honda K20 Cal in there. I dont know how different it is to the B series one.

Will need another log then. It sure looks related to accel fuel in the pic below.

No.

Yep, any will work. The old metal body siemens one potentially needs a stronger pull-up so best to stick with the common continental/VDO ones. Just avoid the ebay/amazon ones which are usually chinese fakes.

upload it to google drive, onedrive or similar and share a link.

Reduce the values in your start up step table to say 0.5% as a starting point. You may also have to reduce the values in your base position table. Basically you are commanding the throttle to open so much that the engine is reaching the over-run fuel cut RPM which cuts fuel, so then RPM drops, fuel cut is removed, RPM shoots up again etc. You should also set up idle ign control as it is really needed for good idle with E-throttle.

A hall sensor is possibly worth a try now. They typically do have more filtering in them, but I still suspect the noise is more on the ground side that the signal side. I dont think removing teeth is going to change those spikes of electrical noise we see in the scope. Kris mentioned earlier that you had an MSD version of the "IGN1A" coil? For me that is the only other potential unknown that I can come up with. I was "online friends" with Lance Nist for many years, he was the man that designed the original mercury coil and then later the improved performance version that he called the "IGN1A", The IGN1A has a rare earth magnet added to the transformer core and a bigger driver compared to the mercury one to give it more grunt. He has given me a pretty good rundown in the past on how the grounds work internally and how they they were designed to be wired externally. However I know nothing about the MSD version - I dont know if it was licensed from him or Motron etc or if it is only the foot print that is the same and nothing internally... In general I havent had much drama with MSD stuff but its just an unknown for me is all Im saying. I have certainly seen lots of drama with generic brand smart coils from China etc that have done very odd stuff like sending the full 400v primary spike back out of the trigger wire everytime there is a spark etc... So if there was any chance of borrowing some genuine IGN1A's - or even some old LS coils etc it could be worth a shot. You could also drop the dwell even further than you have as a test - the IGN1A is more powerful than most even at 2ms.

This is accel enrichment. Your TPS is bouncing between 0 & 0.2% at idle which means TPS delta is bouncing around a bit at idle - up to around 7%, so set your accel deadband to about 10%. It is probably just electrical noise, but check the throttle cable has free play just in case. I notice in your larger log file the warmup enrichment is still active up to about 90°C, but if I look at the warmup enrichment table in the tune you attached it has zeros there. Also idle was in open loop in the log but it is set to closed loop in the tune. So it looks like that tune doesnt match what was running the engine when the log was taken? With the idle in open loop you have 30deg ign timing at idle which could certainly make some cylinders unhappy.