Adamw

The most important consideration for wire in the engine bay is the temp rating of the insulation - especially in the cylinder head "valley" (where the coils go) which is generally the hottest area with no air flow etc. Some basic PVC insulated wire is only rated to 80deg C. Consider also a wire with an insulation diameter that is suitable for the wire seals you have if sealing is important. If you are in the USA, TXL is a reasonably cost effective automotive engine bay wire option, high temp, thin wall. In Europe, FLRYW is similar, high temp, thin wall. As aerace suggests the Milspec wire is a very nice option, /32 or /16 is common in motorsport. You will get away with 20awg or 0.5mm2 for all wires in most cases.

I just looked at a log from the last GTR I tuned and it has about +/-20 MAP delta at idle - pretty sure that was quite stock though. You do have an adjustable MAP filter in G4X but I think I would leave that on low and just bump the MAP lock out up. BTW, those sections in your log where all the lines go flat is due to coms dropping out or not keeping up.

I have just sent you a PM with a new PC Link and firmware to try.

Yep, will do R32-R34

No, VSS are rarely shielded, usually only ABS sensors.

There are 720 degrees or 2 crank rotations in a 4 stroke engine cycle. The trigger mode you are using currently has no awareness of the cam sensor, it is looking at the flywheel sensor only. Without a cam sensor the ecu does not know whether it is looking at TDC on the first crank rotation or TDC on the 2nd crank rotation. So you will only be achieving correct injector timing by luck of the draw. For some start attempts the ecu will start firing the injectors at the correct time during the intake phase, for other start attempts you will luck out and the injectors will be firing on the wrong crank rotation - 360 deg out of phase. It will still run since the wasted spark means there will still be spark at the correct time - just injection timing will be out so there will likely be serious charge robbing going on. For it to sync reliably the ecu needs to see some unique pattern from the triggers once every 720 deg - the only place that can be created is from the cam.

What is the filter? Is it an oem type or a aftermarket/billet type? If it is a billet one with a stainless element it is likely a large micron, not suitable for injection.

MAP sync with a 4 Cyl even fire engine needs to be from a single port with ITB's. For the sync it is common to keep just the distributor base with a billet cap or similar to cover it. You you could possibly use some of the distributor body & drive system to make something much more compact. For example like this MSD one that uses a distributor "stalk" with a sensor pointing at a magnet in the shaft. Or maybe something like this 2JZ kit:

Sorry, I was working away for a week at the time of your last post, I must have got distracted and I never passed the scope on to the firmware team. I have just done that now. Will update you as soon as I can.

You havent replaced the damaged crank wheel yet though right? That scope still shows a missing tooth.

Ok, how are you testing? Have you disconnected all wiring and checking directly at ECU pin with an LED test light or oscilloscope? Potentially something internal is damaged, but ignition drive 5-8 are all done with the same chip, so usually if the chip fails you will have 4 ignition drives that dont work. So I suggest you need to eliminate as many other external possibilities as you can before sending the ecu in for inspection.

I have had one before where the terminal was crimped on to a wire that hadnt been stripped first…

Does the settings tree show that Ign 6 is assigned to Ignition?

If the gauge shows there is data on the bus there must be a disconnection somewhere. Connect the USB to CAN device in place of the gauge to confirm data is there. If so then you can start investigating where it is lost.

The link can control the throttle and VVTi no problem. But I suspect you may have the story slightly wrong. Wouldnt the bigger problem that may require the factory ecu be the auto trans and dash in that car?

Yeah I dont think it will get much better. Most of it is "sync time" - this is when the ecu has determined engine position and phase. VQ35 trigger mode needs 360deg crank rotation to sync. In pic below; Red line is where battery voltage drops (starter motor first engages). Log time 03.218s Purple line is where RPM is first detected. Somewhere between time 03.796 & 04.046s Blue line is when ECU has determined crank and cam position and fuel and ignition are enabled. Time between 04:046 & 04.077s Green line is engine running (>400rpm). Time between 04.108 & 04.140s. So 0.922s total to start, about 0.8s of that was taken up by the ecu determining crank and cam position. There is not much you can do to improve the sync time apart from make cranking speed faster, it is really just a fact of an aftermarket ecu with a more basic trigger code since it has to work with many different types of engines. The factory nissan ecu only needs to run 1 engine type so it will have a more complex sync strategy - it will probably use both camshaft sensors and may also start in wasted spark so will sync much quicker.

Something odd I just noticed, Similar noise on trigger 1 still - but if we look at the trig 2 waveform directly underneath it is dead clean. Looking back through your older scopes it is the same - noise only on trig 1. I will have to check with engineering if there is any hardware reason for that - for example there may be more filtering on trig 2 since it never has to read high tooth counts. But thinking back at other cases Im pretty sure when there is a ground issue I have seen a similar noise on both triggers - they may have been VR cams tho. Is there anything different about trig 1 wiring than trigger 2? Do they both run together and ground to same point etc? I cant remeber if I have already asked - do you have access to a standalone scope? It can come from many different forms, which is why it is so hard to diagnose. The main thing you need to remember current always needs to flow back to its source. It can be current from the ignition system finding an easier path back to its source by going through the ecu ground etc instead of its main ground. Or it can be EMI where high voltage or current running in a big loop can generate a strong magnetic field that induces voltage into other wires etc. A couple of articles that you may find useful: https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/staying-grounded/ https://youtu.be/M1HfbXyYzSM

This one I have used a couple of times (same one Haltech sell): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002623900307.html Or depending where you live it may be faster to buy the Haltech one locally. https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-011310-gps-speed-input-module/

You might be best to contact Link Japan so they can help in your native language.

Got job on your setup, it looks good to me and I cant see any mistakes in terms of comms, it should work as far as I can see. I suspect Starter control might not act how you want - it might get "stuck on" since status "engine running" is decimal 2 which may keep the starter output channel true , so be careful with that once you get comms, but otherwise all looks ok. You might want to change that starter output to a formula with c_Starter value = 1. If you check the live capture box are you seeing any data in the area below? How about in the Light client, do you see 0x44C data in there?

Yes you would then have speed on the dash and the dash can send it back to the ecu if you want to use it in there too. Another lower cost option is one of the "GPS speed sensors" which just wire to the ecu digital input like a normal speed sensor.

As well as the cam wired back to front you also have a damaged crank wheel. It appears there is a tooth either broken completely off or badly damaged about the 23tooth around after the normal 2 missing teeth gap. God knows how the factory ecu runs like that but it certainly wont be a good idea to run it much like that.

No, there is no wideband controller on board.

What I am asking is if DI6 turns on and off with your AC switch or not?

I would expect a single value would still be fine. 30% DC means the injector is squirting for 220deg crank rotation. So moving the timing say 50deg either way is unlikely going to change much. On very high end NA engines with staged injection, outboard injectors, large overlap etc and injector DC below 30% all the way to say 10000RPM, then injector timing becomes much more important. Sounds ok. ID 1000/1050 are generally ok on petrol with a min cyl size of about 500cc. There are 3 important considerations. As far as injection event timing goes, the lower the DC the better. But in a road car you also need to consider the short PW behavior and not go so big that you will be operating in a region at low loads where the injector behavior is less predictable. Finally spray pattern, droplet size and atomization can have a big impact on how much puddle is attached to the port wall and also vapor production at cold start. Larger injectors typically are worse than small injectors from this point of view. Puddle volume affects transient fuel and vapor production affects cold start.