Adamw

No you can only send a numerical value over CAN. You will have to ask Haltech to correct their dash firmware.

Sounds like you are confused. First of all, what ecu do you have? For the fuel pump the ECU aux switches the ground side of the fuel pump relay. The boost solenoid is wired similar to the fuel pump relay - Ign switched +12V to one wire on the solenoid, the other wire connected to an ECU aux. The flex fuel sensor signal gets connected to a DI. The CAN connector cant be used for any of these devices.

Check the ecu connector is pushed home all the way right across the whole width (ie its not bent out at the ends). Your battery voltage drops to 5.4V as soon as the throttle tries to move so you have a bad main power supply somewhere - often with the nissan ecu's its when the connector isnt fitted right. Im also suspicious your throttle may be working backwards - so test it first, it doesnt need to be running. Put the E-throttle in set up mode and move the pedal. Look at E-throttle target and check if TP follows it. If it goes in the wrong direction then change the Aux 9 active state to the opposite.

It look like it is not happy with the trigger, it shows only 17 or 18rpm a couple of times then zero rpm for most of the time you are cranking. Can you attach a copy of the map and also do a trigger scope while cranking and attach that here too.

It looks like this engine has a modified cam in it. The exhaust cam should have 5 teeth per revolution, yours only has a single tooth. The K20/K24 mode needs a matching crank and cam wheel. We dont currently have a trigger mode that would support the 12+1 crank pattern you have with a single tooth cam. You will need to fit the original cam trigger wheel or you could modify the crank wheel by grinding off a couple of teeth to make it 12-1.

https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

Try this. Nissan 350Z Manual trans quad VVT 7Bar G4X Xtreme Plugin - 600cc - AFR Traget - Fuel Table - IGN Table - 20220625 - 1600.pclx

No. The current firmware is 6.22. You dont need to replace parts yet. Please attach your tune and a log showing the problem.

Hard to tell from your pic, but if it doesnt have a sensor on the upper wheel that has a single tooth and only has a sensor on the lower 4 tooth wheel then you need to set trigger 2 sync mode to none. 1 wire to ground the other to trig 1.

The power supply for the E-throttle controller has all been done on board from the main ECU power supply. You just need to assign an aux to E-throttle 1 relay to make the software happy.

You are probably using old firmware. In old firmware the fault value was fixed at 100%, in newer firmware the fault value can be adjusted by the user. Hard to guess since you havent provided any data. It could be an injector issue, or it could be something like a trigger error causing a spike of very high RPM.

There is currently no direct control strategy in our firmware for the electronic gates. It is planned in future but is not being worked on yet so is still some time away. In my experience they are really only an advantage in very high power drag racing applications where you need to do some odd control strategy at launch or for compressor surge that cant easily achieved with an pneumatic gate. In all other cases - especially road going cars the the electronic gate will give poorer control than a pneumatic gate due to the slow response speed. If you want to use one now the only option is to interface with the ecu via their "black box": https://www.turbosmart.com/product/blackbox-electronic-wastegate-controller/

It looks like a misfire, you can see the lambda go erratic at the same time. It is heading very rich just before it starts to misfire though - have you tried making leaner in that area? Are they genuine coils or a good quality branded replacement like Bosch? I have see some very poor performing clones of the Toyota coils.

You dont need a physical pin for E-throttle relay on a plug-in that has been modified like this. You can assign any unused aux - for example Aux 16. When you convert to E-throttle you will no longer need an idle valve so that will give you 4 extra auxes (Aux 5/6/7/8) for stuff like fans. You can also use Ign 5 (purge) and Aux 2 (egr) for other functions if you are not using them for their original purpose.

Sounds like that would work. The G4+ does actually have Oil & Fuel press CAN inputs so they will work just like hardwired AN Volt inputs (except no error/fault settings for failed sensors or lost CAN bus). There is a uk company that make a header and enclosure for the ECUm switchboard to make it a bit more finished: https://rkde.ecwid.com/RKDE-Canbus-I-O-expansion-unit-p347885147

Either would be doable depending on your skill level. Both would probably be a similar amount of work depending how different the pinout is. The multilock connectors arent too difficult to depin and move wires etc. Just be aware there are two different sized pins in the same connector so you wont be able to for example move a small terminal to a position that originally had a big one if required (without chopping and crimping the correct terminal on).

You are in open loop so there is no target. You will need to use closed loop to have targets and idle up offsets. I would say your main issue is the idle ign set-up, you have it set up very restrictive so it cant increase instantanous torque much when needed. E-throttle alone is too slow to correct for sudden changes in load. Also I dont like your E-throttle target table, generally it should have zeros across the top row. If you attach a log of a cold start and warm up, then also turn AC on/off a couple of times when warm I will suggest some changes to get it closer.

The S2000 doesnt even have a CAN bus from factory. I dont know what the factory OBD2 port used but K-Line was quite common for japanese cars in the early 2000's. So if you want to use OBD2 to communicate with the ecu you will need to either add a second OBD2 port, or run CAN wires from the ECU to the correct pins on the factory OBD2 port (may not be legal).

The "fuel is clamped at its minimum" is not an error or fault, this is just a notification to the tuner that he is trying to command an injector PW shorter than is specified in the minimum PW setting. It either means the injectors are too big to achieve the small flow rate he is trying to command, or he has the minimum PW setting set wrong. This will only occur at idle or during overrun at high vacuum, so the code would not appear at high speed. The "max injector duty cycle reached" means you are trying to command more DC than you have set in the "Injector duty cycle fault value".

That warning means the tuner has left the e-throttle system in "set up mode", so all safety features are disabled. That will not be related to your problem but is dangerous. If you post logs and the tune we may be able to help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

This forum is for support with Link ECU's. If your question is relating to a factory ecu you will be best to ask for help on a toyota forum.

Yep it’s been in there a while now. There is a set up guide and plumbing diagram in the help file.

What ecu do you have? Provided the ecu is capable of direct spark then the only change you need to make to the map is change the ignition mode to direct.

That message will pop up regardless of whether that specific ecu has had the mod or not. So if you don’t know for sure it is worth first trying your CAN device. I can send you the info when I’m back at the office later. Remind me if I forgot about you.

Can you attach the tune, a log of a start up and possibly running if it does. And a trigger scope of it cranking.