Adamw

Yeah I suspect there is probably another timeout period in there so the status doesnt show off straight away when the activation conditions are still met but the table output has dropped to zero.

Ah I missed it earlier but I now see a potential issue. Your MAP limit table is a bit messed up so you are getting an 80% fuel cut when cranking. Attached to this post is a new copy of the MAP limit table from our RX7 base map. If you go to your existing MAP limit table, right click, then import/export>import from file and choose this file below. MAP Limit Table 1.lte

Near enough. A couple of examples, the 3523ohm @ 20deg Vs 3511omh in the link cal would result in about a 0.1°C difference. The 667ohm @60° Vs 660 would result in about 0.2°C difference. For a sensor with a tolerance of +/-1.5 it is close enough.

There are two different functions going on - 1) triggering to determine crank position and phase. 2) measurement and control of the VVT cam position relative to crank. The cam pulse window is part of the triggering strategy - it means the ECU will only look for one tooth on the cam within a specific crank angular range so it can determine what phase the engine is in (Exhaust or compression stroke). Effectively ignores the other two teeth so it only sees one unique event every 720 deg. The cam pulse window is only used for the triggering, all 3 teeth on the cam are used to measure the cam position for the VVT control.

I will let @Vaughan reply since he probably knows the easiest option, but be aware the 4WD attesa controller will need a TPS signal which our plug-in doesnt have, so I suspect you may need to move a couple of wires or add a small external circuit to get that working. Also be aware if yours has traction control the TC & slip light will remain on with our plug-in.

Can you attach the tune. It appears the leanest spike occurs just as the secondaries come in so it is possibly the accel fuel/Accel time in the staged injection settings. But since those primaries are being maxed out quite away before the secondaries are being commanded you might have to look at some changes to the general staging also. Can you tell us injector sizes too.

Are the error low/Error high settings set outside of its working range?

It looks like it is working correctly, Aux 8 status will show as off because there is 0% in the PWM DC table. In the picture below, The RPM>500 condition is met, the DI6 = ON is met, but the commanded DC has been 0% for more than the 0.3sec switch off timer so Aux has switched off. As soon as MGP goes above 0kpa and RPM above 1000 it switches back on because there is more than zero in that area of the DC table.

Yes just E-throttle is fine, this would be the most common set up.

Yeah I think we need a log, the hot and cold trigger scopes look similar to me and both appear to be happy.

It sounds like you may have a few problems - 1 is the ecu dropping out during cranking, 2 the R33 GTS sounds like the battery or wiring may be tired. 3, the R34 battery may be being drained due to a back feed. 1. The most common problem in skylines is the ignition switch circuit rather than the ECCS relay side. This is the wire that comes into pin 45 (or pin 8 on some R34's) that Im talking about. When the ECU receives voltage on pin 45 it feeds a small mosfet which grounds pin 16 to turn on the ECCS relay. If the voltage on pin 45 drops below about 6V - even for a slit second then the eccs relay will drop out and ecu will power down. The "battery voltage" that you see in PC Link is what is being received from the eccs relay so that doesnt tell you how low the voltage is on pin 45. The ignition switch circuit isnt a great design (R34 is improved a bit) and has quite a lot of high current devices connected to it, 20years ago when everything was a bit newer, less oxidataion etc it worked ok, but now I see this problem caused by the ign circuit quite often. People often dont know they have a problem because the factory ECU wont drop out untill less than about 5V on pin45, but our ecu drops out at about 6-6.5V on pin 45. As you can see from the wiring diagram below, the single wire from the ign switch powers the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pump controller, an exhaust temp sensor, exhaust temp controller, 2 oxygen probe heaters and the idle valve... And all of that current is going directly through the ign switch - there is no relay! Of these the fuel pump is the biggest current hog, so often the easy fix is to move the fuel pump power to its own relay. 3. On the R34, the battery may be drained by the AC relay:

Try this. CAN template file included as well so you can see how it is done. ryanr33 V1.1.pclx LINK_DanielCPG3_@20220630_093949_005855.xc1 MXG 1.2 Strada Ryan 02.zconfig

So if you go to here: C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X\Link USB Drivers and run the **X64.exe or **X86.exe, do the drivers install and give the "successful install" or similar message at the end?

Is it a windows PC - not a mac running a VM or something? Can you right click on the unknown device, go to >properties>details>hardware ID's and give us a pic of that.

"D" is effectively like "putting on the brakes" - it will pull duty cycle out based on the rate that you are approaching target. Stage 2 uses P & D only, stage 3 uses P & I only. You will definitely need P. Will need logs and tune to offer any further help.

No log attached but I see a couple of setup issues you should correct first. Error High/Low are set up back to front on the analog inputs for AN Volt 7, 9 & 10. Set them like thios: E-throttle max clamp - change this to say 90%.

All of the japanese performance ecu's of that era were just the factory ECU with a modified ROM. Usually only minor changes from stock such as scaling for larger injectors and increase of RPM and boost limits.

So in device manager do you have something like an "unknown device" with an exclamation mark next to it?

16,33&34 are generally power supply related. Assuming the wires are big enough and the source is capable of supplying the required current then the first thing I would do is add the cap.

We dont have any specific info in our llibrary, but this on google images may be of help:

Yes the values in that table are in ohms. These sensors use the common GM/Delphi/Delco calibration, pretty sure if you hit "load" in the ADL calibration window you will find a delco or delphi temp sensor calibration in there (air or fluid temp use same cal). The manufacturer doesnt quote any specifics for this. But all we have tested have been close batch to batch and match the quoted curve well. Since the manufacturing methods for the NTC ceramics is pretty much the same for everyone, NTC's in general arent great, but from my experience I would say they fit within a similar accuracy and tolerance to the bosch specs which is +/-1.5°C at 25°C and +/-3.5°C @ 100°C. Below zero they are much more variable.

It should work as you expect. You can get 7 segment BCD drivers such as 4511 that would handle the display side. Another option is our CAN gauge, then you can display anything you want as well as alarms etc.

Please do a pc log of the calibration process and attach that and a copy of your tune

The air box temp is not useful for anything related to running the engine.

There is a 2JZ map for the supra plug-in in the PC Link base maps folder. This will work for a 1JZ, you will possibly have to change to ignition mode to wasted spark if thats what you have.