Adamw

It should be provided the G4+ was not a real early one. It looks like the last major change on the GTR adaptor board happened around 2016. Check they both have "NGTR V1.5" on the adapter board. The MAP sensor has changed to 7bar but is still physically the same footprint/location.

B5, B6 or B7 was the original cam and crank sensor grounds. You can splice them all together or do them seperately, no advantage either way electrically. BTW, the pinout in the G4X manual is a bit more complete than the G4+ one, so you may find that helpful. Copy here: http://linkecu.com/documentation/TS2JZX.pdf

Be aware the sensor will only have 5 wires coming out of the sensor side of the connector but you still need all 6 wires connected to ecu. And you must keep the original plug, you cant change it to some other type of generic connector for example.

I think "DSM" is a USA only thing, so no one else in the world would know what you are talking about. Can you give us some pics? Have you already broken the extension bit off the bottom board PCB?

Sounds like possibly you parameter config is messed up. Q/A/Pgup/PgDwn all work ok for me. Do you have a lot of the parameters showing red warnings on your screen?

No only LSU4.9 unfortunately.

You can try it, I have no personal experience. But from the explanation above it sounds like the inner cylinders will be very rich and the outers will be very lean.

If you want to do a bottom board swap then contact [email protected] for a quote and return instructions.

10-12 teeth on driveshaft would be more than enough - equivalent of about 40-50teeth on the wheel which is all OEM's use for ABS, TC and DSC

If Allow CAN antitheft is off and there is no antitheft DI assigned then the antitheft status will just show whatever was last left in that memory location so is not relevant. "Engine Kill" will be active if there is anything ECU wise attempting to prevent start up.

Probably the best option you have is set the RPM limit to 3D mode. Then if you want just a simple launch/two step you can just put the launch switch or conditions on one axis of the main RPM limit table. Otherwise if you want more complex launch like wheel speed or timer based, then use the 2nd table and use the launch switch or conditions to switch between the 2 limit tables.

Should be falling edge for multitooth mode. But once you have the correct crank signal you will likely be able to use one of the proper LS1 triggermodes which will give faster startup than multitooth. I think the LS1 modes use rising edge. Dont think so, waveform looks ok in terms of voltage etc. Seems more hardware related.

It seems there is a mismatch between sensor and wheel that is generating the wrong pattern. The original LS* 24X was two pressed steel wheels like below side by side. I cant remember exactly how the sensor works, but it is effectively 2 sensors side by side, but only one signal output back to the ecu. From memory depending if both sensors saw a tooth or only one saw a tooth would determine if there was an output or not. It could be an alignment issue or it could be that the callies wheel is designed to use the 58X sensor instead (58X sensor is a single row sensor).

If its reading 2000RPM with no signal then you are going to need to fix it first.

Port injection on a siamese port engine needs to be sequential (needs a cam sensor). If you dont want to use the cam sensor you would be better to go for single point injection. Rather than explain it all myself, i've copied this info from a megasquirt guy: So MPI needs sequential and very big injectors, a maximum of about 20-25% duty cycle. You need to pair up the injector drives to get injection timing that looks like this:

Ok, sorry I wasnt paying as close attention as I should have been... There is something wrong with the crank signal. In your scope I have marked each falling edge with a small pink dash. As you can see there are 35 falling edges per crank rev, there should only be 24. The 24X wheel is a weird two row wheel and the matching sensor actually has two sensors inside and one subtracts "teeth" from the other. So it seems either that crank sensor is failed or the wrong one so some of the teeth arent getting "subtracted"..

Try this one. amendedmap7.7.2022.pclr

No, all the ecu needs is an edge that rises above 1.5V and falls below 1.0V, which looks good in your scope. Since I dont see any obvious reason why the multitooth option isnt happy, can you try this: Change trigger mode to Subaru V1-6, store and power cycle. The rerason for this is changing to a completely different mode like this causes a re-initialisation of all trigger code and settings. Then change back to Multitooth mode, 24T, cam pulse 1X sync mode, falling on both trig 1 & 2. Store & power cycle again. Then try cranking, If still no good like that can you do us a short log of it cranking and another trigger scope.

You can wire them in. I would probably just leave the IAT off if it is drivable now.

I dont really see any reason for it to be running rough. The dwell is quite stable so that is generally a good sign it is getting nice repeatable timing between teeth on the crank wheel. In the 5000RPM scope there is still a little spike of electrical noise in one spot just as you blipped the throttle, but it is either not big enough or doesnt cross zero so it doesnt look like it has caused any issues. Its going to need a bit more testing to see if the trigger issue really is solved. I can see it looks like it jerks or "bunny hops" in a couple of areas but I dont see any real reason for that, usually it is ignition timing related but yours looks reasonably stable. Potentially accel fuel is a little to sensative.

Did you try the LS1 5-10 mode and LS1 3-12 mode? The 5-10 is the most common, but your crank tooth spacing looks more like the 3-12. But I do notice your cam tooth is in a different place than normal, about 80deg advance compared to expected LS1 so the LS1 modes may not work. I dont really see an obvious reason why your existing set up as multitooth, with 24 falling edges wouldnt work though. Possibly the trig 2 rising edge is a bit close, trig 2 falling edge looks better.

unfortunately G4X is too different to do an automated conversion, you have to do it manually and make some decisions along the way. The easiest way is to open G4+ and G4X softwares side by side in a split screen, then start at the top of the ecu settings tree and work your way down. Nearly all tables (fuel/ign/cold start etc) can just be exported/imported between the two. It takes about 20mins to convert a map. Ignition is mostly the same. Fuel has quite a few new options and the accel fuel has changed quite a bit. Stuff like idle control and most PID loops are very different and will have to be tuned from scratch. Assignment of inputs and outputs etc is quite different but makes sense once you have figured it out.

Does it look happier in device manager now? Is there an entry in both com ports and Universal Serial Bus categories now?

So what happen if you run the _X64.exe?

You dont need to connect a boost gauge since the ECU already knows that. There are 4 spare AN Volts on one Expansion plug, so 3 of these could be used for the wideband, oil temp and press. The Ethanol sensor will work better connected to a DI and the IAT will be easiest with an AN Temp input. The DI's and AN Temp are on the 2nd expansion connector so you will need another XSL for those.