Adamw

I get the impression the sensor is telling the truth and you do actually have a fuel pressure control problem. Either the regulator is not working or it is plumbed wrong or there is too much flow for it to regulate. You can see in the log with the engine off the battery voltage jumps up 0.5V when the pump finishes priming so it is obviously working very hard. You will need to verify with a mechanical gauge or another known good sensor, but my feeling is the reported fuel pressure is probably accurate.

You can buy the CANJST cables from any Link dealer or if you want to make your own and have a suitable crimp tool then you are looking for a JST XA series plug & terminals. You need a very good quality micro crimp tool and suitable 22AWG wire to get a secure crimp that will fit into the housing on these. Provided the dash and egt are both capable of running at the same bit rate then you can connect both to the one CAN port. CANJST: https://dealers.linkecu.com/ADA_2

I would do it a bit different that quoted above. Is your engine the later one with a cam sensor or just the two crank sensors?

I doubt it, it was more than 10 years ago. It would have most likely just been our base map settings however.

+12V to pin 2 & 5. Aux 5 to Pin 4 Aux 6 to pin 6 Aux 7 to pin 1 Aux 8 to pin 3 You will also need to wire the ECU power supply as per the "ECU hold power" drawing in the help file so the idle valve can be reset after power off.

There will only be a boost target if closed loop boost control is set up. There is no target in open loop.

Can you do a short log of it cranking and attach the tune.

The minimum pulse width they list sounds way too big, possibly they are quoting minimum actual PW rather than minimum effective PW. Set minimum PW to zero so it doesn’t get in your way. You can always bump it up later if they behave odd during cruise or something.

If you are still getting too much fuel with effective PW at zero then deadtimes must be incorrect. Or it could be that your injectors are operating in a very non-linear region and are doing weird stuff. I would initially try keeping injection rate at 6 but reduce deadtime to see if you can get the mixture any closer to target.

The main ecu "motherboard" does actually have E-throttle capability built in, but the E36 plug-in is one of our older design adapter boards so doesnt have the Aux 9 & 10 pins on the motherboard connected to anything available to the outside world. So the two options are an external controller as described above, or you can return the ECU to link and we can modify it by soldering a couple of flying lead wires on to make the Aux 9/10 available. Both options generally work out similar cost.

Your Lambda 1 error shows Error 16 - heated too long and Error 33 which is APE open circuit. Typically these two errors combined are a power supply issue - either there is not enough current available or the power supply has some heavy inductive noise present that is upsetting the heater control. If you havent fitted the capacitor as per the alternative diagram in the quickstart guide then that would be worth a try - otherwise move the ground direct to battery - and the lambda relay direct to bat + with no other devices connected.

I have PM'd you.

If you see a file that says "unavailable" that would usually mean you are not logged in. Otherwise, attach your tune and dash config and I can take a look.

Yes you will also need the external E-throttle module. You will need the expansion loom for the extra analog inputs and probably some of the aux outputs will need to be shuffled around a bit to free up the right ones for E-throttle.

You really need to do a PC log so we have all the data. You dont even have TPS logged so can only imagine what is going on. I would just start with a single value in the whole DC table and slowly increase it until somewhere close to the target is achieved. If you cant get stable control with a single DC being commanded then something else is wrong. Hard to say for sure without all the data but something doesnt look right in your logs, in some areas you have 270Kpa at 35% and in others you have 56% and it is only just slowly creeping up to 220Kpa.

No, nothing is lost with a flat battery. In fact the ECU is completely disconnected from the power everytime you turn the ignition off, so no different that a flat battery. Whether the software will help you or not is hard to say. It depends if the tuner has password protected the tune etc. You probably need to get the tuner involved if its only been a few days since it was tuned.

This is an old thread, the dash stream has since been updated and includes Ethanol content. I just had a look in your dash config and you already have it there. If it is not working then it probably means your ECU is on old firmware.

Yes, just needs to be specifically 8A peak, 2A hold. The Holley 554-143 is the other one commonly used for these injectors.

Ah yes, this is the G4X forum so I was discussing G4X. Try increasing cut, 95 or 100%. It will likely feel like too much cut (some small hesitation or pause) for some shifts, especially on tarseal but this is usually needed to get reliable shifts when traction is low. Otherwise I will need to see a log to help much further. Log all the gear related stuff at 100Hz - barrel pos, lever force, percent cut etc.

Yeah I've seen them but never tested one. It is possibly a magneto resistive sensor.

If you mean which calibration, then Std Bosch NTC.

Gravel gearshift has always been difficult since the amount of torque reversal you get to unload the dogs is highly influenced by how much traction there is available at shift initiation. On the couple of cars I have set up I found we needed "a bit too much cut" for good traction conditions so we could get an acceptable shift when the traction conditions gave less drive. In the next firmware release there are some big changes to gear shift control that will probably be of benefit to you. In the new strategy we can have a different cut level for the initial dog unload stage Vs the later engagement stage of the shift. It also has proper input/output shaft speed matching strategy which will probably give a more ideal shift for varying conditions. I can give you a beta version to test if you want to give it a try - the gear shift will need completely tuning from scratch though - and there is no help file documentation yet.

The link to your map is broken.

On the E36 plug-in the speed signal comes from the instrument cluster. This would most likely be a signal that have been processed into a square wave. Im not sure what type of sensor the VSS sensor is, you may need to get a scope on it to see what sort of signal it is outputing.

The microtech documentation is absolute crap but our gear output does appear to match what their document suggests. Are you sure the dash is using the "CAN" gear data and is not in some mode that calculates gear itself based on speed and RPM or something? - not even sure what options those dashes have.