Adamw

The 300Z ecu has two CAN ports so it would probably be easier to wire the OBD2 socket up to the other one. The ecu will actually support the OBD2 and CAN lambdas all on the same port, but by default the lambdas run at 1Mbit/s and although that is officially allowed in the OBD2 standard, the vast majority of OBD2 tools only support 250K or 500K. You can reprogram the lambdas to run at 250 or 500K though if you wish to have it all on the same bus.

I just talked to the firmware engineer this morning as I wasnt sure which Rover modes have been designed to work with a cam sensor. It looks like the mode that you will need "Rover K Series 1L6 (14,3,13,2)" currently doesnt support a cam sensor - but the Firmware engineer says this will be easy to add and should be able to do it quickly when we have the right info. To get the info we need you would need to wire up the ecu - or at least connect the cam and crank sensors to the ecu and do a trigger scope while cranking. That scope capture is all we need to get it underway.

Just had a look at the schematic. The only factory functions that wont work from what I can see: Cruise cotrol "set light". The enable light will work but the set light is not connected. Factory immobilizer. I have heard in some cars the security lamp on the dash will stay on - not sure if they all have this or not. Fuel tank pressure sensor. This would have been used as some part of the emissions evap/purge strategy with the factory ECU. Our purge strategy is more simple and doesnt use the tank pressure. OBD2 port/scan tool will not communicate with the Link ECU - all other ecu's in the car are still scan-able. In many countries it is illegal for anything but the factory validated ECU to talk on the OBD2 port. You will want an IAT sensor fitted into the intake manifold or plumbing close to throttle body. This can be wired to the old MAF plug. The Flex sensor will need to be wired to the main ECU header as there are no spare DI's on the expansion port. The is a DI on the main plug that was used for the neutral switch which is not needed so flex signal can be wired to this. CAN lambda is not a necessity but nice to have. All of these items will likely need some custom wiring to fit.

If the timing drifts more than say 1 or 2 degrees with RPM that would suggest something is wrong with your trigger or trigger setup. You would really need an oscilloscope capture to determine the problem.

What CAN port is the dash wired to on the Thunder? You have a dash set up on both CAN1 & CAN2. Note CAN analog inputs are pretty limited on G4+. GPS speed and Fuel press will work like native inputs but the others wont. Ill set them up anyway but you will see what I mean once you start playing with them.

I have found it varies a bit with the drivers style. I have it set to 20kmh in my car as I tend to push in the clutch and coast up to traffic lights etc. So I want idle control to kick in and get the idle speed correct while im coasting. But in the past I have set up something similar on other cars that I have tuned and I would have the odd guy come back saying "my car stalls all the time coming up to lights". Then I would test drive it forever and couldnt get it to happen. I got one guy to take me for a drive one day and I found he would have the clutch out with the wheels driving the engine almost right up to the stop and only push in the clutch at the last second. So with the ISC kicking in at say 20kmh while the engine was being driven by the wheels, the ecu would close the valve more and more trying to get the RPM down, then when the clutch went in and there was no drive acting on the engine it would instantly stall as the idle valve was too closed. For these types of drivers the speed lockout needs to be lower - something like 10kmh.

The factory coils are dumb coils - they dont have ignitors. If you havent added your own external ignitor then this will likely be your problem.

That strategy was something one of our engineers came up with when testing TC in G4X, the test car had LSD behavior that was causing the inside rear wheel speed to oscillate which couldnt be completely masked using the average or fastest wheel options. Using the outside wheel based on accelerator was the solution. I havent seen any other ecu offer that strategy. Unfortunately the G4+ processor and firmware is already maxed out so we cant add anything significant.

PC Link and the latest drivers work with windows 11 ok. What model PC is it - what type of processor?

Yes. Do these errors pop up when engine is running? Does PC Link disconnect at the same time? Are you using ignitors with factory coils, or changed to smart coils?

I might ask @Simon for his thoughts. The "EMX" prefix on the micro is not one I have seen.

The sniper carbs already have the ecu built inside dont they?

Those are just USB comms errors, more so notifications rather than faults. You will get those if ign is switched off while PC Link is connected for example. If PC link is disconnected while the engine is running and giving those errors then it would suggest there is electrical noise or something interrupting comms.

The scan tool will not communicate with the Link ECU but it should still be able to diagnose all other modules in the car that are available on the OBD port. The only two connections between the ecu and ACD is they both share the TPS signal and the ACD shares the tacho signal that goes from the ecu to the dash. You may need a specialised tool like "evoscan" to see the ACD codes. From memory with the evo's there is a trick where you bridge 2 pins in the OBD port and then it will flash the ACD error codes on the dash.

Yep. Attach your PDM config and ecu map once you get the basics set up and I will give you an example how to set up the button to switch boost tables. Note you can also send things like fuel pump and fan request to the PDM via CAN.

The EMX is from before even the G1, that is a very old device. That ecu had a special calibration module that plugged into it and was the only way to tune it, it cannot be tuned with a laptop or a G1 hand controller. Unless you have that calibration tool you will not be able to do anything with it, they are very rare.

Trigger offset is a bit odd for a BMW. So with that base timing screen open and the engine running, your timing light shows the timing marks line up at 5 deg BTDC? And if you rev the engine with the set base timing screen still open, the timing mark stays solid at 5BTDC and doesn't drift away?

Are they Link CAN lambdas or something else?

It appears you have a bad connection or bad relay for the E-throttle power supply (pin B5). All the logs show the same problem with voltage intermittently dropping on the Aux9/10 supply (pin B5), but I will explain the example below. At just after time 1:12 we can see E-throttle target is 29%, but the TP main is sitting at 8.8%. We can see the ecu is sending 90% DC to the e-throttle motor trying to make it move. We can see the E-throttle relay is on all the time. But Aux 9/10 supply voltage has dropped to 3V and continues to drop to nearly 0V after another second or two. So the E-throttle relay is on, but there is no voltage reaching the ecu from that relay. Possibly a bad connection or faulty relay etc.

If the factory fuel gauge has gone then Im doubtful it will work without a pull-up added. Usually the pullup is done by the factory gauge. But to answer your question, the ECU can take a 0-5V signal as fuel level and send it to the dash. It will need custom CAN set up at both ends. You can also just wire the fuel level direct to the dash if you have enough analog channels.

If the LED was going out it is a power supply issue. As I mentioned above most likely a main ground path missing somewhere since the engine is out. The ECU is probably just getting barely enough current to power up intermittently via a current path through a sensor or relay coil or similar.

Yeah that should be fine. You might want to lift that MAP lockout up a bit as many engines wont get below 50kpa when cold. Set actuator type to none.

No, too much has changed, it has to be done manually. The easiest way is to open the two PC Links side by side, start at the top of the ecu settings tree and work your way down one folder at a time. For all tables you can use the import/export tool. Accel, idle, CLL, knock and anything that uses PID has changed a lot and will need setting up/tuning from scratch.

Yeah G4+ traction control is much more basic than G4X. Just cuts only, not proper torque management using a combination of DBW/Retard/Cuts. Only 2 slip tables, no 4D overlay. No "use outside wheel based on accelerometer" function, no switchable speed calibrations for different size wet/dry tyres etc.

Did you try the jumpers in both positions as per the manual? If that doesnt help I would guess without the engine in it is possibly missing one of the main grounds or similar that are required to power up or engage the main relay.