Adamw

You would effectively have the below scenario if the relay coil supply remains live with ign off. Current will flow through the aux flywheel diode and onto everything else that is connected to the 14V pin/rail. The only other option besides what I explained above would be to add another relay or small circuit that is only live when ign is on.

You will create a back feed if the 12V supply to the relay coil is live all the time. Any supply to an aux device must be supplied by an ignition switched source. One option would be to connect the other side of the relay coil to ground instead of 12V and set the aux output to highside drive mode.

It would not be an easy one due to the CAN communication required to make the dash work and keep other electronic devices happy, it would have to be done as a "piggy-backed" ecu which is generally not a method I like to recommend on modern cars as it can be quite a challenging job trying to keep the factory ECU happy when you start to take control away from it. A quick google suggests the ecu is bench flashable, this would probably be the most appropriate option for your scenario. One example: https://avoturbo.com/suzuki-jimny-turbocharger-ecu-tuning-package-1/

Yes, or you can leave the coil connected and "back probe" with a needle. That doesnt rule out things like for example a large ground offset when the starter is engaged due to a weak ground or similar. Whereas if you can see a pulse with a test light but see no spark at the same time then you can be a bit more confident on what can be ruled out.

Most likely your idle settings. Check idle base position, start up offset, AC offset and min and max clamp are suitable for E-throttle.

Can you confirm if it is wired as per scheme 1, 2 or 3? And is Ign Sw and ECU Hold both set to internal?

Post a log of it running now and a copy of the tune. Moving the O2 sensor a small amount should have little to no effect on the typical tune set up. You likely have some other issue.

Can you confirm this statement. Aux 3 should be pin 9, not 113. The 12V supply for the boost valve does not come from the ecu, I think it would come from the ECCS relay.

Correct. If it is an X series you would be best to connect the "AEMNet" wires to the CAN port rather than the expansion.

It would be better to attach your tune file and a log. Your basic setup looks ok based on your pictures. I assume you have an EGT amplifier connected to the switch board? What voltage is CAN An 1 reporting?

The logs show the ecu is commanding a spark. I cant think of any other logic that would cause no spark when cranking. Do you have an LED test light to confirm there is a pulse reaching the coils? The dwell is possibly a bit too long, you could temporarily try a flat 4.0ms in the dwell table. And although RPM should have no effect on the spark issue (I think the minimum is about 20RPM from memory), I think you are going to need to fix the low cranking RPM to get it to start reliably. Even with the spark plugs out you only have an average of about 120RPM, it should be at least double that with the plugs out. With plugs in I would expect >200RPM typically.

The idle control is set up in our basemap so I would expect that will only need some minor tuning. You can share a log here for help or advice tuning it. For the rest I dont think somebody else's map is going to help you much. Closed loop lambda is typically only enabled after fully tuning the rest of the fuel controls, and its setup will vary quite a bit depending on the lambda controller used, the sensor placement in the exhaust, and the size of the exhaust. Knock control is much the same, this is typically only enabled after tuning the ignition and an audio-based knock device is usually needed to setup and verify its effectiveness.

It sounds like possibly either aux 1 or aux 11 has been connected to aux 8 somehow in your wiring. Is there only a wire in position 106 or 113, not both?

I dont see anything wrong in your map, it can only be a wiring issue. Can you confirm this again, your comments above still dont make it clear. So to confirm, test like this: With the boost solenoid unplugged, Ign switch on, boost control PWM output set to aux 8, aux 8 test off, active state low, aux 8 status showing "Inactive" in the runtimes, you should have 12V on both pins in the boost controller plug.

Dont use the analog signals, instead tap into the digital signal wire that goes between the sensor and ECA, connect this to an ECU DI, set up as per normal except leave the pull-up turned off. You dont even need the ECA unless you want to keep the display.

Is it actually running richer or just reading richer though? Assuming the tune hasnt changed then it was probably always running rich. Have you got a log from before and after?

Or possibly there was a small air leak somewhere before which has since been corrected.

From the help file:

I made a couple of further changes to idle settings in @Rossobianconero's one. You will possibly need to richen it up in the -40/-20/0 kpa rows in the fuel table also if it wants to stall as you open the throttle. 2jzS15startup mod2.pclx

I would say the only way that could happen would be if there was a "bounce" on the clutch pedal. Increase the start shift validation to about 20ms should be enough to mask most bounce and I would also log the DI and gear shift status at say 500Hz for the next test to get a better picture of what is going on. Also, unrelated to your current problem but something I want to mention in case it does affect you in the future - it has been recently discovered there is a bit of an oversight in our "digital input" end shift mode: There is currently no "maximum shift duration" function, so be aware if you do push in the clutch at high RPM/TP, then the cut will stay active the whole time the clutch is depressed. I suspect this is probably not usually going to happen during normal driving/racing, but one user did find on the dyno because he pushed in the clutch at the end of a ramp run and kept it in for some time, the gear cut would stay active and stall the engine. This is on the fix-it list, and there is a relatively simple workaround if needed in the meantime.

I replied to your ticket on Thursday but since your comment above suggested you hadn't received it, I just went and had a look another look and found it appears you made a mistake typing your email address (.hormail instead of .hotmail), so I have just corrected that and reset it. Let me know if you still dont get it.

Usually lambda shows lean when there is a misfire as you have uncombusted oxygen pumped through the exhaust, that is not always the case though. My logic would say the rich spike is possibly more due to the drop in MAP, you have already injected fuel into the intake port based on the higher MAP, so if MAP is suddenly lost somewhere you have too much fuel injected for the amount of air that gets ingested. A drop in MAP also evaporates more of the fuel puddle at the same time. My general rule of thumb is +/-0.3ms is acceptable with a cam based trigger. If the crank suddenly slows down after the dwell period has been started, then the ecu needs to stretch out dwell to ensure the spark occurs at the correct angle. I dont see any obvious clues for the cause of your hesitation, but here's a couple of suggestions that would eliminate some possibilities and give a general improvement: Your lambda is all over the show, rarely anywhere near target. A lot of that is caused by overactive accel enrichment because your deadband is set to zero. So that needs to be fixed and a lot of your fuel map will likely need re-tuning after that. But I think there may also be some other issue causing further variability. I would add a fuel pressure sensor so that can be ruled out. I would double check rotor phasing, based on your trigger offset it should be ok, but you never know with aftermarket distributor caps etc. Instructions for this check are in the help file: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Ignition Drives > Distributor Ignition While you are messing with the distributor I would also do a check to confirm the offset is resulting in the correct injector timing. A quick test for this is to temporarily change your ignition mode to direct spark, (unplug the fan relay since that is wired to ign 2), pull cyl 1 spark plug lead off and ground it with an old spark plug, then crank it over and check if you have a spark on that plug. If not then the offset is wrong, change by 180 or 360 and test again. The last suggestion I have is I would strongly consider upgrading to COP, you can wire them in wasted spark since you are running low on outputs. The reason for this is distributor ignition just has so many potential issues, getting rid of the distributor cap, leads, cross talk, rotor phasing, high voltage next to the trigger sensors, all the spark leakage points, ignitor, condenser, etc rules out a whole lot of possibilities and even if it isn't part of your current issue, it will likely improve only reliability in the future. You can get a set of VAG coils for <$100USD in 3 different lengths and they usually dont even need a bracket to mount.

I would try to validate that MAP sensor calibration somehow also, I dont have confidence in the data available. That phearable doc you linked to gives different results depending if you use the quoted transfer function or use the scale/offset given for the hondata. Then most other websites I could find with published data for "Omnipower 3bar MAP" gave something different again. At 0.5V there is 20-30kpa variation (or 100% error!) between the 4 different calibrations that I found. Even the Omnipowerusa.com website is wrong, they have the same 4bar calibration quoted on their webpage for 3bar, 4bar & 5bar sensors...

Give these a try. Sti V3 New CAN.pclx Rumbly STI.zconfig

I dont know the V10 well, but assuming it had the same options as the V14, then the built-in MAP sensor is 2.5Bar, in the software you can set the MAP sensor to "External" and this expects a 3bar GM sensor to be connected to the MAP pin. This would be the oldschool Delphi 3bar sensor such as 12223861 or 16040749