Adamw

There are configurable filters on the analog input in RS3, set it to 16 or 32sec.

I think I have heard of a few users putting one of our WRX plug-ins in a SF5 with minimal wiring changes, but the auto would likely be an issue in this case. I dont know of anyone that has tried so it is I have no info on what the trans requires. There would usually need to be torque reduction requests from the trans controller and often the ecu outputs the kickdown signal and convertor lockup etc.

I believe this is a Blink firmware issue. Somewhere along the line recently they updated the processor in some of the keypads and this introduced this random shutoff issue. I cant remember all details - if there is a known trigger etc. They have recently given us fixed firmware but it needs a PCAN tool to do the update so will likely have to be returned to Link for the update. If you have a PCAN tool I can possibly give you the update software but I would need to check in with others if we are allowed to.

Hmm, thats odd. Can you try setting up ecu logging like below, with just engine speed and batt voltage logged at 100Hz, no control conditions so it just logs all the time the ecu is on. Then do a couple of cranks and download the log. That will at least confirm it is shutting off rather than just a USB issue and if it is shutting off it may capture what was happening to battery voltage just before that point.

I've just drawn a possibly easier-to-understand visual diagram. Attached as a PDF as I dont think it would be clear if embedded as an image. I have plotted a full 1080° cycle for one rotor, showing approx port and combustion cycle events based on stock quoted FD port timing and an example of where the injection events would occur if started at our default of 130BTDC and a duty cycle of 70%. The top row marks out Link injector timing "BTDC" values. The "spark" I have just placed at TDC and dont show the trailing spark just to keep it simple. The orange region marked overlap means both the intake and exhaust ports are open in that region. With ported engines the exhaust would close later (and intake opens earlier) so the orange overlap region would get wider. Injection timing would likely need to be a little later (smaller BTDC value). Rotary Port and Inj Timing.pdf

Our base map is set up using traditional fuel equation, you have changed to modelled multifuel, so you will have to set up everything with the correct data for your hardware and fuel properties and tune from scratch. All of the settings below are likely wrong. Injector flow rate for ethanol will be lower than the gasoline flowrate as the viscosity is higher. There are some generalised suggested values for fuel density, temp coef and stoich ratio in the help file if you dont have values for your specific fuel. Multifuel bend table specifies how the fuel 1 and fuel 2 properties are blended, usually for flex fuel this would be set up with ethanol content on the axis. Again the help file has examples. The lambda target needs to be set to values suitable for the application. I suggest you start by switching back to modelled mode and just tune on the pure primary fuel first. Move to multifuel mode once you have the primary tune optimised. When that time comes, start by reading the help file article: G4X and G5 ECU Tuning Functions > Fuel Setup > Multi Fuel > Multi Fuel Setup and Tuning Guide

If it is showing 5V for AN Temp 1 in the software then you should also see 5V on pin 18. Can you do one further test to help diagnose: Plug coolant sensor back in to its normal wiring. Unplug ECU. Measure resistance between pins 18 & 21 in the ECU plug on the loom. If the wiring to the sensor is ok you should measure about 2500ohms at 20°C

I would suggest you remove that tooth, it will never work well like that. In fact I suspect the "drivability issue" it had previously was quite likely due to that trigger wheel rather than a tune issue. The problem with no missing teeth on a high tooth count wheel is the cam sensor is what provides the index position. When you have 36 teeth, there are only 10 degrees between teeth, this means your cam can only drift a maximum of 5 crank deg or 2.5 cam degrees before it will cross a crank tooth and cause a trigger error. That is not enough tolerance for typical engines. If you have a missing tooth crank wheel, then the missing tooth provides the index, the position of the cam tooth is no longer critical and can move around without causing an error.

So can you see any missing teeth on that crank wheel?

Does Lambda 1 status and Lambda 1 Error report any errors? Is Lambda 1 temp around 780°C?

Default EJ20 AVCS values in G4+:

That sounds a bit borderline considering a multimeter has quite a low update rate. Just reading back at some of your earlier posts in this thread, you mentioned you had done a test by grounding pin 16 with a bit of welding wire or similar - did the ecu stay connected when cranking when you done that?

How come the picture has HT leads to the spark plugs? Were the coils changed later? Can you give us a picture of the trigger wheel.

There should be no dependence on the dash being present. The only 2 connections to the dash are tacho from ecu to dash, and speed signal from dash to ecu. Neither should cause a misfire. I would suggest doing a short PC log with the engine running and unplug the dash so we can see what else changes in the ecu when you do that.

The map doesnt match the log so its a bit hard to tell without the correct data. Your VE is mostly exaggerated around idle and cruise, at WOT it is possibly a little high, but not far off normal. So that would usually be deadtime related as deadtime error has a larger effect when PW is shorter. Some other things to fix: Injector deadtime table has MAP on the Y axis, it likely should be differential fuel pressure. Fuel system type is set to FP Sensor, but there is no fuel pressure sensor assigned. Many multifuel settings are wrong, fuel properties, injector flow rate, lambda target 2, multifuel blend ratio table. IAT fuel trim should be disabled for modelled mode. Accel fuel sense table is referencing TPS, it should generally be RPM as you need less enrichment at higher RPM. Under power you have a large variation in lambda between banks. Lambda 2 is much leaner than lambda 1.

The trigger scope shows the crank wheel is not 36-1. The scope hasnt captured two cam revolutions so its a bit hard to tell confidently what it has, but it looks almost like it does still have 36 teeth, but just none missing? I guess it could be 60-2, but the compression pulses look like they are roughly 18teeth apart which suggests it is more like 36 teeth. Is the trigger wheel on the front of the engine or internal?

Confirm if that is the issue first. Will need to do a bit more digging to suggest the best solution. For example if the fuel pump is still supplied by the ignition switch it would probably be best to change the fuel pump supply which will take a lot of load off that circuit - But that may already done for all I know. So at this stage Im still trying to confirm if your issue is on the triggering side of the ECCS relay or on the high power side or something like a ground issue. I dont remember what the grounding scheme is like on the GTR but generally older Nissans main ground point is on the engine as some devices including the CAS and ignitor ground through their body/mounting. Changing to batt -ve wouldnt be recommended if this is the case.

You would just need to change the tooth count setting to 12 and the missing teeth setting to 1, then re-set base timing. Why would you change from the 36-2 though?

Pin 45 is from the ignition switch, it should show close to battery voltage whenever the ignition switch is on. If it drops below about 7.5V the ECCS relay will drop out. Note on a BNR32 this wire also supplies the fuel pump, oxy probes, idle valve, AC relay, boost valve & EGT sensor, so it is a fairly overloaded circuit, not uncommon to see low voltage on it as the ignition switch wears and all the connections along the way get more resistance with age. Should be measuring between ground and 45.

You've got antilag and cyclic idle active all the time so I would be leaning towards that before seeing the log. Gearshift control and launch have some pretty odd settings also, so I would turn those off for now.

Ok, please give us a short PC log of it cranking and also do a trigger scope capture while cranking.

I would leave the E-throttle feedforward at zero for now, zero works ok for most. Your oscillation problem looks like too much proportional gain. Drop that to 5.5 or 6.0 to see if it settles down. Your ethanol sensor DI needs to be changed to rising active edge. All your multifuel settings are wrong, including lambda target 2, fuel properties, injector size, etc. IAT fuel trim should be turned off. VVT needs to have the cam angle test calibration run. Do you still have the original problem with the tacho/dash/fans not working? This suggests the CAN bus is not working.

No, I dont think you have got it yet - but I dont blame you when there are popular videos like this floating around. I dont claim to be a rotary expert myself, but there is so much wrong in that video that I can only roll my eyes. The Link uses E-shaft degrees and it appears he is also talking in E-shaft degrees. But why the hell he is saying at 28:10 (same as "position F" in the schematic above) is 460degs is beyond me. If the E-shaft lobe is pointing to 9o'clock then this is 540BTDC. 460BTDC would have the lobe pointing to about 11:40o'clock.

What ignition coil(s) does it have, many of the duratec coils dont have built-in amplifiers so will need an external one.