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Everything posted by Adamw
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A AN volt input is designed for reading a voltage from some device that outputs a voltage. A temp sensor doesnot output a voltage, it is just a variable resistance. So to convert that variable resistance into a variable voltage you need to create a voltage divider circuit. In the automotive world most of us refer to this circuit as a "pull-up resistor" even though that is probably not technically correct. So the difference between AN volt inputs and AN Temp inputs is the AN temps have a pull-up resistors on them (AN T1 &2 have software configurable pull-ups, AN T3 & 4 are fixed 1K pull-ups). To connect a temp sensor to a volt input you will need to add an external 1K pull-up resistor.
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Attach a log. Edit: Actually after a quick look, your settings are so far out there is no point doing a log. Please put all your accel settings back to our base map values and then do a log after that. In the pic below the base map values are all in yellow. The other colours are your current settings.
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You should have just done it how I told you to do it since there were less wires moved and less chance of mistakes. All of the changes you have made didnt need to be done as I said earlier they only needed the function changed in the software and in the spreadsheet I already listed what to assign the auxes to. The changes you have made should still work, just my aux assignment list will now be wrong.
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It sounds like you have probably used up all the tables. There are 45 GP tables available. You can check how many you have used and what they are used for using the table allocation tool at the bottom of the ecu settings tree.
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Dont the R33 gear boxes already have an electronic speedo sensor on them?
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What trigger mode are you using? Some variations of the 58X engines can have the cam sensor in rotated about 90 deg. The Chev LS2/LS7 (90 offset) mode should work for yours.
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What gearbox do you have? There are a few aftermarket electronic pickups that screw onto a speedo cable drive if you have one. Otherwise, a hall sensor picking up of the back of the wheel studs or bolts on the driveshaft flange (diff pinion) is often an easy option.
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Trigger looks ok. My instruction is correct as far as I can see. We want to move the sensor ground wire from position 23 and connect it to sensor ground pin which is pin 39. We then want to move the fp speed wire from position 39 to aux 7 which is pin 23. BAP should be set to "Internal". MAP is most likely on pin 42/AN Volt 3. If that doesnt work it could be pin 37/AN Volt 4.
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Ok, I think it will have to come back to NZ for repair in that case, it sounds like something must be damaged. Contact [email protected] to arrange.
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I have absolutely no experience with Mac but I do know of others using parallels or bootcamp with G4+ ok. Can you give us a screenshot of the hardware ID's like below. To get to this right click on the Link device in device manager, then go to properties>details>hardware ID's.
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Im not too sure what you mean by "but the ECU won start". So the Blue LED lights up but do you mean the laptop wont connect to the ECU now? Or just the engine wont start?
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I just updated the excel file above to correct that mistake and a couple of others I noticed.
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My understanding is they are generally happy to if the ecu is still unlocked and sealed in the antistatic bag but that sounds like it is not the case here. In this case it is a decision that would be made by our sales team, probably depending on the conditions that resulted in the incorrect ecu being sold amongst other considerations. Your dealer really needs to contact his regional sales office to discuss. You can only swap functions amongst pins with a a similar functionality. For instance if a MAP sensor is connected to AN Volt 1 instead of AN Volt 4 you can just change that in the software. But if a ground wire is connected to a pin that is meant to have the trigger signal on it then that cant be changed via software.
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It sounds like possibly the secondary injectors have either a different flow rate, different dead times, or different pressure than the primaries. I would start with a simple test to confirm the Sec/Pri flow ratio is correct. The way I normally do this is fill the secondary staging table with zeros (this means all fuel injected by primaries), hold the engine at medium RPM, medium load (say 3000RPM, 50% throttle) and take note of lambda, then highlight the whole staging table and change it to 100% (this means all fuel is now coming from secondaries), if the flow ratio is correct then the lambda will be the same regardless if the fuel is coming from primary or sec. If the lambda changes then adjust your Sec/Pri flow ratio a little and test again until it is stable. A little lean or rich spike is fine when you switch over but it should stabalise to the same lambda after a second or two.
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If we are talking about a S13 or S15 plug-in, then no it still cant operate DBW directly out of the box. The G4+ plug-in does actually have the hardware onboard but the SR20 plug-ins dont have the nesecary Aux 9/10 pins connected. So you have a further option with the G4+: An external E-throttle module as has been discussed above already. Return the ECU to Link and it can be hand modified with a couple of flying leads added to make Aux 9/10 available for direct connection to a DBW throttle. You will have to email tech support to get a price to do that as Im a bit out of touch, it used to work out just a little cheaper than the external module.
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Any on/off type signal like a switch/button - high/low boost, launch control, rolling anti lag etc as examples. Or any frequency/pulse type signal like a wheel speed, turbo speed, driveshaft speed, flex fuel sensor, etc.
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Isnt the engine stalled and is being cranked in that area? I dont think it would actually be running at the 100-200RPM it shows before and after that RPM spike. Battery voltage drops because the starter motor is working.
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The Evo 1 should have a factory wastegate solenoid, most users just connect the new solenoid in place of the original. The original is connected to Aux 4. If your original wiring is gone, then pin 40 is Aux 4. Connect one solenoid wire to switched +12V and the other solenoid wire to Aux 4.
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Have PM'd you instructions
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The module can drive any throttle.
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I just knocked this up. Hopefully easy enough to understand, Red cells are the wires that need to be moved, about 14 or so wires to move. Green ones can all stay where they are. A couple of changes will need to be made in the map, I didnt note them down, but for example fuel pump relay will now be controlled by Inj 5 instead of Aux 7. ST205 loom toST185 ecu V1.1.xlsx
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The analog voltage is not monitored/measured. The on/off status of ignition outputs when they are doing ignition is not something you can see as they are synchronously controlled by the engine time processor.
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All G3's and early G4's will need the CAN mod for CAN to work.
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I'll will try to put together some instructions on what you will need to move in the next couple of days when I have some free time. Just using the ST205 map is not going to help much as the trigger wires and grounds arent connected to the correct pins.
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What function is on the ignition drive? Some functions are active all the time and just duty or frequency will vary. Example below would be the parameter that shows ign 5 turning on/off for engine fan 3