Adamw

You can try reducing fuel by reducing your master fuel setting, Although in the map you attached it doesnt look too far off what I would expect for stock injectors. It is worth a try though.

Yes, you will need a CANPCB cable and a CANF plug to access the CAN bus. The CANPCB cable plugs into the CAN1/RS232 socket inside the case. It will need a groove filed in the case for the cable to pass through.

Tha MAP sensor looks wrong to me, it drops to 9kpa in some areas which I would say is almost impossible for a 30year old engine. Are you sure it is a Link 5 bar map sensor fitted as per your settings? Warm-up enrichment isnt even active in your log so that is irrelevant, although I agreee with essb00, it is a bit odd to have it based on MAP.

I would do the cal table a bit different, see below. The cal table converts the 0.5-4.5V input into "switch positions 1-6". The boost ratio table gives us 0% table 2 in position 1 increasing to 100% table 2 in position 6.

For a dash 2 you will also need the race technology CAN interface. That interface has two CAN wires which connect to the two CAN pins on the ecu connector

I just noticed there is a typo in my text above that you quoted. It should have said Q3 is divide by 8. Each Q divided the previous output in half, so something like this: Q1 = 1/2 Q2 = 1/4 Q3 = 1/8 Q4 = 1/16 Assuming your ECU is a G4+ then the Q3 would do.

G4X is a bit different than G4+ as it doesnt need a power cycle during the update. So the above doesnt realy apply to G4X. I would try removing the ecu from the car and powering the ecu up on the bench and doing the update there. This will eliminate any wiring related noise. To power it up on the bench, the easiest way is to clip 12V on to the stripped end of the big arrel shaped TVS diode and clip gnd onto the other end.

Give us a log of it cranking and attach your map as well. ECU hold power will kill fuel and spark, but it wont stop the triggerscope from showing the signal.

You look like you have everything you need to make it run now. It looks like possibly too much fuel as the start attempt where you had the throttle WOT the RPM picked up like it almost started. What size injectors does it have?

You can also log the parameter “ecu temp”, to get a better feel for what it does in normal use. The max temp in statistics may be heavily influenced by a 1off hot day/event/situation. We test them at 70degC so probably if temp was regularly above that for significant periods in normal use I would start to worry.

Yes, you will need all factory sensors for it to work.

You will need 2 analog inputs for the pedal, 2 analog inputs per throttle body and 2-3 aux outputs per throttle body.

When the engineers are designing a trigger decoder there are many considerations such as factory wiring, difficultly in interpreting the signal, possibilities of errors as cams move due to future machining, chain stretch etc... The HR trigger decoder uses two cams to compliment the crank information for both phase and position to achieve a very quick sync. I believe the crank only needs to rotate a max of 120degs before the ecu has determined engine positon and can fire the correct cylinder. The old VQ35 mode only used one cam and needed up to 360deg to sync.

I dont see any way the ecu could damage the laptop. The USB circuit is completely opto isolated from the ecu - ie there is no electrical connection between the ecu and laptop.. The only way I have seen a laptop damaged in the past was when a USB cable was mistakenly plugged into a powered CAN port, but the ST185 ecu doesnt have the powered CAN so that is not a possibility.

The A in the middle of the acronym MAP stands for Absolute. 0 is total vacuum, 101kpa is approx atmosphere at sea level.

Set you MAP up like below:

If you have some calibration data for the MAF then you should be able to make it work, but for a beginner I would suggest you keep it basic and stick with the base map. What MAP sensor do you have?

Most decent multimeters will have a frequency setting. But it is only going to show the same as the ecu already shows.

MAP sensor calibration is wrong, you have a MAP of zero (impossible) so no fuel is being injected.

If your car is right hand drive then the right hand cam would be drivers side.

I said "Xtreme and higher". That means Xtreme, Fury, Force & Thunder have the automode.

I dont see why the normal VL base map wouldnt work. Only the ignition mode will need to be changed if you get rid of the distributor.

You can use 2 external modules or the one internal and one exturnal. You will need to confirm you have enough inputs/outputs as two throttles and a pedal will need a lot of IO.

You are right about the Daihatsu is 4+1. 6-1-1 would be a different pattern than 3+1. The two gaps will be 360 deg apart. In the pic below 3+1 would give a signal like the green teeth. 6-1-1 would be the red teeth.

If its got clean uncontaminated fuel in it then its output frequency should be between 50 and 150Hz. If it is not outputing that then either the fuel is contaminated or the sensor is faulty. The ecu cant influence the frequency it outputs.