Adamw

Confirm which is the TDC mark with FFE. Then check timing with split at zero and timing locked at zero. All 4 plugs should be firing at zero (at any RPM) with this set up when timing is locked. If there is a small amount of drift (say less than a few degrees) then this can be compensated with the delay setting, if it is more than say 5 deg drift something else is wrong.

The surging is overrun fuel cut turning on off. Either turn it off or adjust the deactivation to something like below as a closer starting point: The high idle is because of a few factors, mostly the base position table is set up with numbers in it more suitable for an idle valve rather than e-throttle. Change all the settings below in orange to match mine and it will be closer.

Hmmm, I dont see anything obvious. Trigger 1 falling edge is a little close to one of the sync points so its worth a try to change trigger 1 edge to rising as a test (ignition timing will change by a couple of degrees). See if you still get RPM dropouts like that.

Yep looks correct

Analog input CAN receive is pretty limited in G4+. List below of the inputs you can receive via CAN, you will note there is no Oil temp in that list. You could use one of the generic "CAN AN V", inputs and scale it so it reads numbers that make sense, but there is no way to rename those channels or change units. So 100°C oil temp for instance would be received/displayed/logged as "CAN AN V1 = 100.0V"

All our SR plug-in ECU's have a MAP sensor onboard to get around this problem. Top add one in the engine bay you would probably be best to get 5V from the TPS.

The CAN is fully configurable at both ends, but I have a vauge recolection that the SDL has some weird limitation in the number of channels it will accept. From memory it was 8 frames but I cant remember if that was the original SDL or SDL3. So we may have to remove some unused channels before we can add extras. Fuel press should be in there already, just put a checkmark beside it and check that it works. If not it may be due to the limitation I just mentioned.

Sure.

Thanks, I will ask engineering to have a look tomorrow. Can you try a different GP PWM, in my testing I had the same problem on GP PWM4, but GP POWM 3 & 5 accepted the value fine.

I just done a quick test and I think there is something wrong with 3 teeth on cam mode. I will ask engineering to have a look at it tomorrow. Try setting multitooth position to crank and tooth count to 6 and it should work. Note howver injector and ignition timing wont be correct with sync set to none.

If the carplay head unit is an android based unit and can install apps from google play then it will work.

Even now the cam signal still doesnt look right to me. Although it may just be that it was cranking very slow? It still looks like the ground is missing or something. All grounds are internally tied together and the Link ECU only needs one cam sensor. So cam sensor ground can go to either B5, B6 or B7. And NE is not the common ground in a Toyota CAS. NE is the "crank" (24T) signal, so this shouldnt even be connected. The common ground is usually labelled something like G- in toyota terminolgy.

There is autotune functionality for fuel but it is really designed for the dyno where you can hold it steady state in a specific cell. No ecu can self tune ignition as you would need some way of measuring torque as feedback. But as I said earlier there is a whole lot of weird stuff set up in your map that is not going to make it easy to tune, it really needs an experienced tuner to put it back to basics. There is a 5D ignition table set up pulling 50 deg timing out under some conditions, controlled by AN volt 2, but who knows what that is connected to.

What throttle body do you have? For the pedal pinout you will have to find an EvoX wiring diagram.

Fixed up your post and moved it to the G4X section. Yes you have a trigger issue, it looks like it is losing sync quite regularly. Can you do a triggerscope at idle, attach that and a copy of your map here. How to do a triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=CbfHgX

If you change firmware back to 6.19 does it then power up reliably again? I have been running 6.20 in one of our test cars for the last 4 weeks or so and it starts reliably (also push button start). Also I have not seen any trouble with power off/on on the test bench over the last few weeks. Several other users outside of Link have also been using 6.20 for several weeks with no reports of this kind of problem. So does it only happen for you if you make a setting change but dont store before powering off?

Although a terminating resistor on both ends of the bus is best practice, I would expect it to work even without one. I just had another look at your dash config and noticed the rate is set a bit odd, can you change that to 1M. I dont know what "default" means and have never seen that option in Motec before. Another good test you can do to confirm data is making it to the dash is a voltmeter test. Unplug the dash and PDM (if you need PDM for power then just pull the CAN H/L wires out of it). With ECU on so it is broadcasting data, measure voltage between ground and CAN H and then ground and CAN L. If they are connected to ecu and there is data coming through and they are correct polarity, you will have a bit above 2.5V on CAN H (typically around 3v) and a bit below 2.5V on CAN L (typically around 2V).

Thats a triggerscope. I want a PC log. >logging>record>. crank engine. >logging>stop. >logging>save log file as.

What do you mean by "the Link Ecu will not start"? Do you mean the engine wont start or the Laptop wont connect? What is the log showing? Is it a power down log or power up log?

Can you do a pc log of it cranking.

Yes it will be converted to suit the hardware you have when you load the map into the ecu. You will still need to go through all the inputs and output setup tho to make sure they are set up to match how your car has been wired.

In that map E-throttle 2 is turned off. Can you turn it on with the same settings as E-throttle 1 and do a short PC log showing the problem. Also, In the runtimes screen, it shows the E-throttle relay on Aux 15 is open circuit (this may not be accurate but worth checking) and it shows 0V on Aux 17/20 supply.

So if you just unplug the CAN 1 plug from the ecu wouldn’t that then mean the dash and pdm are only connected to CAN2? If so, just turn off CAN 1 in the Link software and set up CAN 2 for Transmit generic dash.

Both your dash and ecu CAN set up match so it should work as is. Is the dash wired to CAN2 on the ECU B plug or CAN 1 on the round 6 pin plug? For the stuck injectors, try 12V straight from a battery with a couple of small jumper leads and give them a couple of good taps at the same time.

You can try reducing fuel by reducing your master fuel setting, Although in the map you attached it doesnt look too far off what I would expect for stock injectors. It is worth a try though.