Adamw

The L15A generally uses the K20 trigger mode from what I have seen.

I suspect it may not be possible to monitor switched cam positions. The 2nd position sensor would be wired to DI 1-4. You could try setting up user defined VVT to see if you get cam positions reported - im not sure if it will work without 2 auxes assigned as vvt solenoids. Instructions for setting up user defined vvt is in the help file. Purge is no drama, there is no leak detection function in the ecu. Probably a GP limit table for the safety shut off and a GP output with say 3 conditions for the lamp. There is an example in the help file for an oil presure GP limit.

I have messaged you a test firmware with the multi-tooth 3 on cam trigger fixed. Please give this a try. To install this, open the firmware update tool as normal, but use the browse button to navigate to the .img file I provided.

All models fitted with low imp injectors from the factory also had a ballast resistor. If you keep stock injectors no change is needed, if you fit high imp injectors then you need to bypass the resistor.

Yeah, basic set up is fine in that case. It is a throttle body issue or sensor issue, nothing in the map can case that.

The RPM limit appears to be working correctly in that log, there are a few trigger errors showing but always up around 9000RPM. I think in this case it looks almost like the trigger error is caused by the limiter rather than the other way around like it usually is. Dwell and RPM trace looks fairly stable through the area where the trigger error count increases. I suspect it may just be your aggressive limiter settings that causes the trigger to bouince around when on the limiter. Was the "low power" problem present when you done this log? Can you do a triggerscope while doing a free rev to something like 6000RPM so we can see what the voltages look like. I dont think you have a arming threshold issue.

Since you have a TDC mark yes, it would be best to lock timing at zero and set the split to zero for the offset calibration. The instructions in the help file that suggest using a -20 split is because most 13B's only had a 20ATDC timing mark on the pulley - and the engine wouldnt run with the leading at -20 so it was best to confirm on the trailing using the -20 split.

Some of the early G4X ecus had a hardware problem that could cause this, what is your ecu serial number? Are you still using the stock 1J ignitor and coils?

Thanks, I woke to several similar reports this morning, it seems to be all related to the same user so they have been flagged as a spammer and all posts/messages should now have been removed.

What engine does it have?

Normal scheduled fuel injection is synchronous - that is it only gets injected once at a fixed point in the engine cycle (usually finishing around 400deg BTDC, so a long time before combustion). So if you only have synchronous injection (like most ecus) and you suddenly stand on the throttle after the injection event has already finished, then the next combustion event will be lean because you only originally added enough fuel for the amount of air that was flowing at the time of injection. With Asynchrous injection the ecu is always watching the fuel calculation even after the injection event, so if there is a sudden change in airflow after the main injection has finished, then ecu will add extra injection events to "top up" the fuel that is already sitting in the port waiting to be inhaled. The minimum async injection setting is only used to prevent the async from reactivating too often when there is only a small amount of extra fuel calculated. I suspect the main thing that influences what is a good minimum setting is your injector size. Probably around 1.0ms would be suitable for typical ~500cc injectors, and maybe 0.5ms for ~1000cc injectors. All my cars started with 0.5ms in there and it seems to work good so I havent experimented with it much further. Your little lean spike could be not ernough accel fuel or the min async is too big. You really need to look at what was happening to accel fuel at the same time. Also, dont be too concerned about getting a dead flat lambda, there are all sorts of interactions going on during heavy transients and measured lambda is not always a good indication of how well it is all working. Aim for best response rather than flatest lambda.

In G4X the wiring can work either way, but the outputs will always be labelled as you show in the picture above. So dont worry about the wiring too much, as long as one terminal is connected to aux one and the other side to aux 2 it will work fine. If idle speed control works backwards then change the "Aux 1 Active State" setting in idle speed control setup screen which reverses the behaviour.

Be aware also the 2GR cam sensors need a special pull-up wired. Note from the help file below. VVT solenoids need to be wired to Aux 1-4 with the G4+ (cant use just any aux like the G4X)

In test mode the DC is always 50%. At 50% DC the voltage on the aux pin would be approx half of the normal voltage when the aux is off.

Kind of looks in the ball park. Fuel table setup looks a bit odd if it still has the stock ITB manifold. What specific problem do you have?

In the G4+ boost control was locked to MAP, this is becuase generally the aim of boost control is to keep cylinder pressure constant. You generally tune to a acheive a cylinder pressure that the engine can safely handle. If you use MGP for boost control then the cylinder pressure will vary with baro, this means anything related to cylinder pressure will vary - engine power, suspectibility to knock, etc. In G4+ this has been opened up to allow other control strategies such as pre-throttle pressure but its still recommended to use MAP in general.

That set up in the ecu doesnt look like the generic dash stream. Highlight channel 1 again and click load, then choose the generic dash.lcc file. It should look something like below when correct.

The built-in ignitors on the E36 plu-in (for BMW "dumb" coils) would make it a complicated job to run a V8 which has coils with internal ignitors. There are also only 6 injector drives available on the E36 plug-in. So it would be possible, but quite a ball ache and would need to run grouped injectors.

The offset really needs a timing light to set correctly. If you think it is somewher close but firing on the wrong stroke then just add or subtract 360 from the existing offset. It looks like the cam sensor might be wried back to front in that latest scope, did you change it from the earlier one?

Sounds like it is showing 100kpa, not psi. Looking at your TP calibration voltages it looks like there is a problem with the sensor or wiring. It has a closed voltage of 0.5V and an open voltage of 1.4V. So only 0.9V from closed to fully open wouldnt be common. The TI calibration matches the quoted calibration for the sensor. The error code on ANV6 suggests the signal is shorted to ground (0V). The minimum voltage those sensors should ever output is 0.5V, so again probably a wiring problem (or sensor is dead).

What engine? Is it just a standard common plenum and single throttle? Mild camshaft/s? Do you have any logs showing similar conditions but different AFR? Is inj PW similar when it does? Yes incorrect MAP calibration or a source which doesnt represent common plenum pressure well could cause some odd behaviour. No that would be acceptable for most road car engines.

Also, not shown in those pics, but you fill the back with RTV afterwards so the resistor is supported.

Apart from a Aux connected to a DI, CAN would be the only other option. You would loop CAN1 to CAN2, send a Virtual aux that is true when TC knob pos = 0 out of one bus and receive it into the other as "Traction disable".

Share a link to the file using google drive, onedrive, dropbox, or similar.

In theory looping it back to CAN 2 would work, but it is not something I would do. Crimp a resistor into the plug for your wideband like below would be how I normally do it. Resistor wattage doesnt really matter but 1/6, 1/4 or 1/2W would be the common easy to get options, above that they are starting to get quite big.