Adamw

Error 16 on the lambda is generally power supply wiring related. Either the wires are not capable of the required current, or there is excessive noise on the power supply circuit. If it is not connected to its own relay, but instead shares an existing power supply with other devices then try fitting the 22uF capacitor as per the "Alternative" diagram in the quick start guide. The backfire we have found is due to a hardware issue that seems to mostly effect subaru's. The ecu will have to be returned to your closest regional office for a hardware fix.

The Haltech WB1/2, provided they have firmware > V2.03 will broadcast the native Link CAN lambda protocol so they can be setup/used just like a Link Lambda.

Huh? What are you trying to achieve? Cyclic idle is generally only used where you have the throttle permanently jacked open for the old "group N" antilag method.

Try these, should be fixed now. Khalid fixed Dash file.zconfig Unlockedfile fixed.pclr

Yes, the fan output on the factory ecu was only ever designed to trigger a relay and nothing else - so it wont have any flyback diode etc. The aux outputs on a standalone ecu however need to be able to control anything from a VVT solenoid, a boost valve or idle valve, etc, some of which generate large flyback voltages. So the driver that a standalone ecu has on its aux output is a whole lot different than the factory ecu fan output, to protect it from these high voltages. It is this protection diode that provides a path for voltage to backfeed into the ECU when powered off. Since the factory ecu doesnt have flyback protection then it will still work with the relay powered incorrectly as there is no path to backfeed. The Link wont. The Link works fine with the factory wiring, but something has been changed on yours, probably un-intentionally as part of the alarm wiring. Pin 1 on that LO fan relay is what you need to fix. It should only be live when the ign is on.

If you have both clutch and brake inputs already connected to the ecu I would do it a bit different than I suggested above. What ecu do you have? Is it a synchro gearbox?

Yes the min PW setting would have been having an effect at 1ms on a small engine I would say. Normally I would set that to zero on a basic set up like this.

Active state shouldnt really matter, either will work, but active low would be the normal convention for a PWM.

Thats a typo you have found there sorry, I will get that fixed up. Corrected note below. So yes you can use A8/Aux 8 & A11/Aux 7 for what ever you wish and you dont need to worry about A9/10.

Ok, there must be something changed to do with the LO fan relay that is connected to pin 21 (aux 1). The power supply to this relay coil should turn off with the ignition switch (comes from pin IG2 on the ignition switch), so the fact yours still engages when the ignition is off suggests there is still power there. Possibly something to do with the alarm or imobaliser by the sounds of it. The high fan relay will have the same problem since it is powered from the same IG2 source, but that one wont backfeed as it is driven by an ignition drive rather than aux output (ignition drives dont back feed)

Im not quite sure I understand what you are trying to do - when you enable a table, the ECU pulls the first free GP table that it has available, that may be the same table you just turned off from the other function. Normally you should choose "Yes" when the message asks if you want to clear the table and set the axes to defaults. You should use the base map named "Mitsubishi EVO 9 PCB V1.6+ G4+ Xtreme Plugin", the Version number refers to the bottom board revision. The difference is some of the aux outputs have been shuffled a little as the later bottom boards support E-throttle.

Do you have a realistic RPM (say 150-250RPM) showing in the software when cranking?

Yes "in gear" needs both a gear position and the clutch/neutral to be not active. If your speed is too erratic for idle lockout or gear detection you can possibly fix it with math as per this users post: Or you can set gear detection to analog and just fudge the error settings so it is always in 1st gear or whatever.

There is no pull-up resistor on the injector outputs so I suspect that will be the reason the tacho is not happy. Only the Aux outputs have a 12V pull-up. If you dont have a spare aux output to use for the tacho, then add 1K or 1.5K ohm pull-up resistor to the injector output like below should do it.

There is no paddle shift functionality in the G4+ ecu. You can do something basic like use a GP output to activate a solenoid when the up shift request is true, but it will be difficult to cover all aspects that a proper paddle shift function would such as re-tries for mis-shifts, neutral and reverse lockout, half shifts for neutral, etc, as well as there are typically some specialised timing required such as preloading the actuator before the cut is activated etc.

That sounds like a back feed. This happens when something connected to an aux output has constant 12V, rather than ignition switched 12V. Is it an evo plug-in ecu or a wire in ECU?

It is mostly idle ignition control related. It is not kicking in due to the RPM lockout, but that is because you have 20deg in the same area of your main ignition table and the idle ignition table is set up a bit weird. Attached below a couple of changes to try. The open loop map, I have just fixed the idle ignition table, main ign table around the idle area and adjusted the lockout. The closed loop file I have done the above and enabled closed loop stepper control. Closed loop.pcl Open loop.pcl

Your fuel table is not suitable for modelled mode. The numbers need to be about 300% bigger. Click on the empty grey cell at the top left corner of the fuel table then type "*3" and then hit enter.

You should use the ST205 map. This has the IO set up to match your hardware.

Edited my response after looking at your log. Your AP sub/main is set up correct. Notice below your AP sub flatlines when the main is only at ~66%. That means the sub can only monitor the first 66% travel of the pedal.

You wont be able change any actual control settings, but you can for instance change say the target slip or launch RPM via CAN by using a CAN analog input on the launch and traction table axes. You can also turn traction control off/on and change between 2 slip tables (say wet/dry settings) using CAN digital inputs. Gear shift there would not be much you can change via CAN as none of the tables have configurable axes.

You are trying to send numbers larger than 8 bits can take. A GP input calibrated in percent has a 0.1% resolution. So 0-100% fuel level is 0-1000 over CAN. 8 bits can only take up to 255. So you can fix it in two ways. At the link end you could divide by ten so that 0-100% goes out as 0-100 over CAN, or you can leave it as 0.1% resolution but make it 2 bytes/16 bits wide. Try the attached, both converted to 16bits. E30_KG1_modelled_5.pclr LINK_Generic Custom01_@20170524_021339_007952.xc1

That map is password protected, can you unlock it.

Ok, reading it again I think you are right, I assumed he was saying he had a ST185 ECU. If he does in fact have a ST205 ecu, then he should be using the ST205 base map - the base map matches the I/O assignment, not the engine. For Instance with the ST185 map loaded into a ST205 the CE light output will switch off the TVIS solenoid as soon as it starts which wont help it run. So going back to the OP's problem... Assuming you do have the ST205 ecu, then load the ST205 map in so that the IO assignment matches the hardware. Re-read the "pre-start configuration" and "first start checks" section of the manual - this would have picked up the wrong MAP pin assignment if it had been done. Initially increase the master fuel to 20ish like I done in the earlier map to suit the small injectors. Start it, then once running adjust the master up or down just using your ears for feedback, adjust it in whatever direction gives you an increase in RPM and smoother running. If it still doesnt run reasonable with that then the next step would be to get a timing light on to it to confirm base timing.

Please do a PC log of it cranking.