Adamw

The Evo 9 plug-in doesnt have Aux 9 & 10 pins available in stock form so there are two options: If you havent purchased the ecu yet, you can place a special order with it hand modified to make aux 9/10 available on flying leads. If you have already got the ECU then it can be returned to Link in NZ for the modification. (About ballpark NZD$150 + shipping last I heard). You can use the External module, which allows any spare aux to drive E-throttle.

Should be ok to drive gently if you follow the "first time startup" section of the manual - which includes checking the base timing with a timing light and adjusting the master fuel so it runs ok.

The fuel pump and ISC activate when the ecu sees the first "pulse" from the crank sensor. So it sounds like there is some headlamp current passing through the ECU wiring somehow, making the ecu see a small pulse on the trigger input. You could try using a jumper lead from the battery -ve post to the headlamp ground connection point to see if bypassing chassis solves it. if it does it would suggest chassis to battery is higher resistance than it should be.

That file you attached is not the dash config. You need to go to the config tab is RS3, select your config, then click the export button. The file should have a .zconfig extension.

You would set it up as a custom sensor in the dash so that the voltage gets converted to a "position number", then send that channel out using the CAN output function in RS3. At the ECU end you receive it as a CAN AN Volt channel. So launch switch position 1 is received as "1.0V", launch pos 2 is received as "2.0V", etc. Then put the CAN AN Volt on the axis of your launch table. Attach your dash and ecu config and I will set it up.

If its one of the modern Aim dashes that uses RS3, then yes, you can connect your launch pot to a dash input and send it to the ecu via CAN.

Did you read that page in the help file I suggested yet? Because it explains there in step 17-25 exactly what you are asking.

The ignitors are a specialised automotive inductive COP IGBT. They are rated for 14A continuous @100°C. Our quoted rating in the E36X manual is 10A, so there is a good margin there - possibly PCB track limitations. Clamp is around 400V. I suggest stick with the stock dumb coils if they have adequate ign energy for your cylinder pressure. I have never seen any issues with EMI on these cars with our ECU. R8 coils can be made to work with this ecu but arent ideal due to their high current driver requirement (means you need a strong pull-up or seperate constant current source). If you wanted to upgrade to smart coils in the future I would probably lean more towards a more common low current type like R35 GTR, K20 or IGN1A. You will still need to add a 5V pull-up for these smart coils as per the manual, but more conventional than what you would need to do for the R8 coils. For the shields there is nothing special required. Sheilds can go to sensor ground or power ground, generally no preference, some OEM even use a mixture of both. Pins 28,40,43,44,&45 are designed as sensor grounds, although they are all internally connected to a main common ground plane, but with special routing and filtering techniques to reject noise.

It should be 0.68 Lambda and 1.36 Lambda.

Yeah it sounds like you would be ok. The latest G4X PC Link has a complete pinout for our ecu. Be aware it has ignitors built-in to ignition outputs 1-6 to drive the factory M50 dumb coils, so you will need to stick with dumb coils preferably and you wont be able to use ign 5&6 outputs for anything else when re-pined for a 4cyl (even though the software will allow you to re-assign them to other functions). There is no other special hardware attached onboard so all other IO will work just like our wire-in ECU's. Also note ours doesnt come with a case, it is designed to fit in the OEM motronic case. Not sure if your 4cyl case will be the same.

I can possibly help. It sounds like you will need a custom stream set up at both ends. If you attach your dash and ecu config I will set up an example. What activates "sport mode" in the ecu?

A JZX110 plug-in is being worked on but it is still quite a way off and has other projects in front of it. I suspect the "2 months away" comment that the original poster mentioned may have been for the JZX100 plug-in that was released around that time? Not sure.

We need a PC log with all channels recorded and a copy of the tune. This video is for a G4+, but may give you a better how to do a log and save the map: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Disarming speed setting uses the driven wheel speed. Attach a log and your tune if you need further help.

Years ago I have made a petronix pickup work as a trigger (needed to connect a big 1 ohm resistor to simulate an ignition coil being connected) but I wasnt completely happy with it, it seemed to do some weird stuff at times and we were getting a few trigger errors. This was with an older G4 ecu so didnt have a triggerscope function to really check what the problem was and if it was solvable. I didnt really mess around with it much as it was a Ford V8 which had a range of other more conventional distributor triggers available so we just swapped it to something I trusted. So sorry, I know that is not a really firm answer - but if there is any other more conventional sensor option that will fit (reluctor or hall) then I would rather go that way before committing time into the petronix. I would think for a VW it is common enough that there must be some other option.

If you want a seperate switch then this would generally be connected to a DI rather than the same input as your pot.

Example below, use a virtual aux so that when both clutch and brake are pressed and throttle isnt, it triggers a down shift event. Set upshift DI to DI11 or a virtual aux that isnt used so that it never activates. It will probably need more throttle and time than the example below, but start small and increase from there. You can also try the predictive end mode, but shift end usually works fine.

You dont have MAP logged so it is a bit hard to tell how well it is controlling. Go to your logging setup and click the "Add all" button so that everything is logged. The Wastegate DC table doesnt appear to be well tuned as the closed loop is pulling 15% DC out all high RPM trying to fix it. There is a set up and tuning guide in the help file, you should start by following that process: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Boost Control > Closed Loop Boost Control > Closed Loop Boost Setup Guide

Not necessarily. But, in G4+, if you leave it "Always on" then CLL and knock control will be always disabled. So it is generally better to have either a switch or you can use a virtual aux so that it is automatically enabled for instance whenever speed is below 80kmh.

Yes, the problem was in .3668 firmware. update and it will be ok.

To elaborate on Vaughans comment, the CAN data is always sent and received in the native metric units with the designed in native resolution and offset for each parameter. If you want something different output then you do that using the multi/divider/offset. This will mean using a custom stream rather than the fixed preconfigured Dash2pro stream. For some examples read the help file page: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Data for CAN

Some are. I havent owned or used any of the real cheap <$50 ones but have owned or tried a couple of ~$100 ones. Avoid the cheap Hanteks like 1008, 6022, they are totally useless. Owon VDS1022 is good. Picoscope 2204a is good. I have also used a PoScope Mega50 or mega1? at someone elses shop and that seemed good.

You will really need to get an oscilloscope on it to see why it is not happy with the trigger signal, it could either be a connection that plays up when hot or it could be the sensor output voltage dropping due to the heat. The first thing you can try is lowering your arming thresholds on both trig 1 & 2. drop the 0RPM cell right down to 0.2 to see if that helps.

First, connect your launch pot to an analog input, set its function to GP input. Assign a cal table with output units none, and set it up so it converts the voltage of each position into a "position number". Example below I have a 5 position switch that outputs a range of 0.5-2.5V. So when the switch is in the first position, Analog 3 will read "1", when the switch is in the 3rd position AN3 will display "3". Then for the launch, set launch mode to 3D. Put AN 3 on one axis of your launch table and the same 1-5 position numbers. If you dont want a 3D table you can just set the 2nd axis to none. In some forms of racing it is common to put non-driven wheel speed or a timer on the 2nd axis to ramp power in smoothly as the car gets moving.

Thats how it works currently. They are permanently stored until you manually clear them. Is your CE light maybe set up to display something else other than CE? Some of our basemaps for instance it is set up to come on as an overheat and overboost warning.